Here is a video on EGR issues, with some interesting insights. I've not found significant discussion of these things in PriusChat and wonder what our resident experts think. Some of his statements: * You WANT to replace the EGR (rather than clean it), and update the software at the same time, due to a TSB... * The revised EGR plus software should permanently solve carbonization issues (I don't know what TSB) * The TSB apparently lists an EGR kit, including needed gasket, that costs much LESS than an EGR on its own. (I don't know what P/N although 04004-581370 is mentioned in the comments) * He says Oil Catch Can should be unnecessary after this fix. The engine has a built in oil-air separator??! * He doesn't bother removing the cooler for cleaning. Just blows it out if/as needed. THOUGHTS??? (At this time, a replacement EGR or kit appears to cost over US$150 at minimum)
This has been discussed in great detail. Specifically the thread that mentions the TSB is here: New TSB for EGR and gaskets (TSB 00-27-16) | PriusChat The TSB is 00-27-16. If a Prius owner is capable of doing the work, you'll find that a consensus will go the cleaning route to save money. Other Prius owners not so mechanically inclined will likely opt for replacing the parts. To each, their own. The EGR kit part number is 04004-581370 and can be found here: https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-egr-valve-kit-0400458137 . Looks like around $146.40
I recognized the video from the quotes, and just to be sure I clicked on the link. For me the progress bar on the video shows I've watched it about 2/3 of the way through. Likely by that time I was starting to talk to my monitor, in exasperation. That guy does make some good points, but at the same time he seems entrenched in the Toyota "culture" so deeply, as to be maddening. All this talk about "if you don't want come-backs, you need to replace everything". It might be applicable in some instances, say a rare failure where a cleaning/repair is dubious. But this is carbon build-up. Too, I lost patience when he waived removal of the EGR cooler*. Does he mention cleaning the EGR passages on the intake manifold, I forget. If he does, it's likely to be (pricey) replacement; can't have come-backs.... The built-in air-oil separator he mentions is ineffective, btw. "Cooler" is the street-name; Toyota calls it something else, maybe "Pipe". Which makes very little sense. Especially when just downstream, other side of the EGR valve, there's something that looks very pipe-like.
The T-SB I'm aware of concerned really cold ambient temperatures and sticking of the EGR valve which results in rough engine and/or error code. The EGR was definitely redesigned as wiring insulation needs to be unwrapped and rewrapped to get the electrical connector to attach to the new one. I actually flashed the software but kept the original valve. (Less than 35k mi on our Prius v didn't deem it necessary to replace in our moderate to hot Southern California climate. It would not likely get that cold here). REVVL V+ 5G ?
Thanks, guys. Very helpful feedback. I saw that in the previous discussions here, the "built in air-oil separator" IS discussed, if that's the area behind a plate that the PCV valve is mounted on? Sounds like it does something, just not enough. Does anybody bother cleaning that out when cleaning the IM?
Pipe sub-assembly, EGR with cooler ... you can't just stop reading catalog names at the comma. A throwback, I'm sure, to the days when all sorts of pipe sub-assemblies would be wanted alphabetically together in a paper book.
I watched it last night, and agree with you, mostly, and with him a little bit. His claim that a cleaned-out used EGR heat exchanger ("cooler," which also serves as a pipe) would be just as clogged after a single short trip as that one was after he briefly puffed air through it is patent nonsense. He might be right that partial clogging of the manifold is a bigger problem than partial clogging of the "cooler." He said the manifold is hard to clean, so he replaces them. The oil separator is mostly effective, but not perfect. Its performance suffers if it's sludged, or the crankcase is overfilled, or there's excessive blowby. I never had another car consume so little oil.
230K no maintenance at all. Cept regular consumables . Dirt road car too .it failed like twas programmed to fail . Looking down the bore the rod is broke the crank still spins without making noise in the engine runs on three cylinders piston number two on the thrust edges looks like the crown is trying to peel right off the top of the Piston or the Piston is trying to flip over in the bar I have pictures
