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EGR cooler gasket not correctly fit exhaust side

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by ozmatt, Feb 27, 2021.

  1. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    How's everyone going :)

    Removed the egr on my 2010 today as it recently logged P0401, figured best sort it out before driving any more, lucky I did! found the gasket half hanging off the manifold side, only on by the top thread someones had the cooler off before, like who does this?

    Good news is the cooler looks reasonably clean, i will also take off the manifold and pcv, clean everything, and install a catch can.

    Not sure if this gasket is worth cleaning up and reusing, its slightly discolored from heat in one spot which to be expected considering how it was on there! Think it should seal, theres a bit of soot to clean off but it's not too kinked or bent, still looks decent really, i imagine it's not cheap through the dealer and I'm pretty tight :) IMG_20210227_144333_638.jpeg IMG_20210227_162456_727.jpeg IMG_20210227_162450_250.jpeg IMG_20210227_162446_412.jpeg IMG_20210227_162442_675.jpeg IMG_20210227_162439_877.jpeg IMG_20210227_162425_150.jpeg IMG_20210227_162407_451.jpeg

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  2. mikey_t

    mikey_t Active Member

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    I think it'll be fine to reuse.

    I'm imagining that the person who previously cleaned the cooler finagled around with the gasket before just giving up, and recalling how long it took for me to figure out to get it back in proper place makes me laugh.
     
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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I won’t know for sure till next time, but I think removing the Exhaust Gas Recirculation cooler lower bracket stud (from cylinder head), and leaving it off, when you then reinstall the cooler you can preinstall it’s back studs, and this allows you to put that back gasket on the studs beforehand ; not have to fish it in there.
     
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  4. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Not sure what the prices are in Australia, but in Florida, those parts are expensive.
    You certainly need a new one. It doesn't appear that that seal with actually seal any longer.
    If it had not been damaged list it was, you might have gotten away with reusing it.
    Any rubberized type gasket you should not reuse, though some people do. You are taking
    a risk of them leaking if you do. Unless they are fairly new, which I suppose your's arent?

    Good luck on your EGR cleaning. And you should clean out the cooler, even if it is fairly clean.
    Since you've taken it apart, you might as well.

     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Check on Amayama; they’re pretty close to you, ship either from Japan or UAE.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    The part number for back gasket is:

    25685-37010

    For me through Amayama the part is $2.79 CDN :), and shipping is $36.88 :cry:.

    Not totally disheartening though. First off, the shipping is the ONLY extra I’ve ever had, never any sales tax or duty. And if you add some more items, wiper blades, air/oil filters or whatever, the shipping cost often doesn’t increase, or just slightly.

    Genuine Toyota 25685-37010 (2568537010) GASKET, EGR COOLER, NO.1;GASKET, EGR PIPE - Amayama

    Also, do check local dealership parts departments first (if you have them); it’s funny but this never occurs to a lot of people. Even if their price is higher, no shipping charge.
     
    #6 Mendel Leisk, Feb 27, 2021
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2021
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  7. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Hey EGR gurus cheers for replies

    It's fair to say I found that little exhaust leak that's been bugging me lol

    Mendel I must admit it's pretty tempting to wind that stud out and toss it, and maybe I will.. cheers :) I don't have too much trouble with getting the gasket on personally, maybe im just patient or know how to hold my tongue haha..

    Haven't cleaned everything up yet but I got myself a fresh can of oven cleaner from coles last night, have a few other chores on the go today and want a chance to chase a gasket on Monday.

    Hi Dogman, the thing is it's actually not really that mangled or damaged as such, it just has some carbon on it where it crossed path with exhaust hopefully that will clean off with some oven cleaner and steel wool, it should clean up 98% compared to how it was.

    cheapest gasket i can find online is about 70 bucks with postage, it's only 20 for the gasket but postage 50 and I don't really want to wait a month for it to come from the other side, I will check the dealer tomorrow and check parts stores for generic brand metal film exhaust friendly gasket for some other vehicles, and a couple people I know might have a good used gasket

    I noticed a lot of people on here don't even replace the rubber manifold gasket, I will inspect it but feel it's probably going to be squashed and money will end up on dealers hand for that at least :)

    Matt

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  8. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Mendel I missed this on my last as we both posted at the same time :) thanks for the part numbers, will have a google now!

    Cheap parts at Amayama I will definitely keep an eye there in future but can not wait that long to get my 2010 back going, I've already been a month in passenger seat of the Mrs poor old 2008 and sometimes driving my tch, I enjoy driving too much to stay passenger for much longer and hate driving the camry the seat is just horrible (among other things)



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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Sounds too like your existing gasket is still serviceable.
     
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  10. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    I think it will be okay, just want to clean the carbon off before I say for sure, I just thought because it's been jammed in the path of flow it may have a "hot spot"

    If I can get a new one on the shelf locally at a reasonable price, I will .. otherwise this sucker is probably going back on!

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  11. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    ended up being cheaper at the dealer than expected, $5.95 for the egr to exhaust gasket, $25.20 for manifold gasket and about $4 for the egr pipe to manifold o ring, only thing i have to wait 3 days but that's okay just enables me to be lazy :)
     
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  12. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Feeling doomed (always the pessimist)

    Manifold was completely clogged at #1, had to chip at it with wire and feed it brake cleaner for a couple minutes to dig a path through the carbon, who knows how long it's been like this I have only owned the car about 10 months and 8,000km

    Inlet ports both head and manifold have a good bit of carbon on them, not sure how many km on this engine, it was replaced before I got the car,, hence the egr gasket being misaligned and it didn't seem like the egr cooler had been off the engine before, only disconnected at the exhaust.

    This all started one hot day about a month ago I got P0401 so I stopped driving it an hour later with intention to do an egr clean before driving it any more, it always did and still does run perfectly and uses minimal oil (that I have noticed) and after sitting a few days always starts up without shake and runs beautifully.

    After finding the manifold blocked like this I feel like I'm on borrowed time lol, guess all I can do is clean everything and add the catch can and drive it with my fingers crossed

    All the EGR components are now perfectly clean but can anyone confirm if oven cleaner is safe on the manifold, inlet ports are pretty grubby and I'm tired of trying to clean it with carb / brake cleaner


    IMG_20210304_212007_475.jpeg IMG_20210304_173803_387.jpeg IMG_20210228_102450_665.jpeg IMG_20210228_102615_301.jpeg

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    #12 ozmatt, Mar 4, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2021
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  13. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I would only use the oven cleaner on the EGR Cooler. NOT on the EGR valve or Manifold.
    You can use carb cleaner on the manifold, or gunk(flammable version). I also use a pistol bore
    brush on those holes, with gunk, in a drill. Cleans them out fast.
    It seems like the EGR system was clogged and caused a head gasket failure and someone just replaced
    the engine, without out resolving the CAUSE of the problem. Hopefully, cleaning out the whole EGR circuit,
    you've saved the engine.
     
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  14. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Hi Dogman

    Done the cooler and egr valve/pipes etc, that all come up clean.. & i already used oven cleaner on the egr valve :whistle: woops?

    We cant get Gunk here, carb cleaner and gun or pipe brushes will be okay for the little egr ports in manifold but i wouldn't mind to get the inlet ports a little better, but probably wont waste too much time on that its pretty pointless

    The (unknown km) replacement engine was installed a couple years ago when the car had about 360-37k km on odometer .. so its done a few miles since it got in there, odometer is now 455k km. I think the egr and cooler came pre-installed on the engine as it did not seem to me like the cooler had been previously removed from engine, only disconnected at exhaust

    don't like seeing that port for cyl1 completely blocked, it leaves a very dirty taste in my mouth
     
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  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I used oxi-clean on the intake, which is somewhat similar cleaner, albeit not as strongly basic. It was overkill in my low miles case. Anyway:

    If you use a basic cleaner, just rinse and dry very well, then maybe spritz the embedded metal bits with something like WD40 (water dispersant). I revisited the intake a year or two post-cleaning; found some white/crusty build-up and/or discolouration on some the embedded metal sleeves and threaded inserts.
     
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  16. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Okay. Do you have kerocine? Pretty much same as Gunk.
    You could start with a small drill bit to open the port, the use carb/brake clean and
    a gun bore brush. The brass won't hurt the plastic so much because it's softer than steel ones.
    I personally wouldn't change the size of those holes. But if you want too, use a drill bit.
    Though it might change the flow. I'm SURE someone will chime in on THAT! :)

    Since you did use the oven cleaner on the egr, doesn't matter. Just rinse it really well.
    Same with the intake manifold

    However you clean it, just make sure you rinse all well. And allow to dry well.

     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Yeah oven cleaner, oxi-clean, dishwasher detergent (the concentrate, for automatic dishwashers), they’re all varying degrees of basic/caustic, like lye. They will tarnish aluminum (the EGR valve), and the metal inserts in the intake manifold. If I was starting fresh I would ONLY use them on the cooler. The intake manifold maybe, if it was really bad, but rinse/dry and then a spritz of WD40 on all the metal bits.
     
  18. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Hey Mendel thanks for that, i know you are somewhat cautious about this stuff so i trust you're judgement, just finished up reading the 100 page thread on egr cleaning, trying to decide on occ location is killing me

    Intake seems pretty bad to me, what do you think? either way if its okay to use with the plastic manifold i will carefully foam it up with oven cleaner while trying to avoid the metal inserts and give it a wash out within 5 minutes, the parts wash/carb cleaner is not making much of an impression on the intake ports and not looking forward to cleaning the ports in head
     
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  19. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    They are NOT the same. Not like lye.
    Dishwasher detergent will NOT tarnish aluminum. Water will tarnish aluminum.
    Leave the EGR cooler in any water plus almost anything long enough and it will soften
    the carbon. Oven clean eats the carbon, in minutes versus days and many changes with
    oxiclean.

    A glass beader would work well for the metalic parts, and probably the intake plastic,
    if you don't over use it.

     
  20. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    As I said, probably NOT a good idea to use the oven cleaner on the manifold. Neither is gasoline!
    Kerosine is okay,
    You can use a rag and carb cleaner on the head intake ports. If you have a compressor, you can spray
    carb cleaner in and use the rag and/or brass brush to clean it then blow it out, watch your face though!
    Make sure the valves are closed so it does go into the cylinder.

    If no compressor, spray it on the rag and wipe it clean. Doesn't have to be perfect.
    WD-40 could work on the manifold ports. Like I said, a SMALL drill bit w/drill could start a hole and
    a bore brush w/WD40 will clean out the ports.

     
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