Dr Prius Results - New battery or repair cells?

You should definitely check the battery cooling fan.

"Fixing" by replacing only the really bad cells is a band aid solution.......which is likely to last from a few days to a few months before other cells fail again.

Assuming that there probably is a LARGE price difference between those two options, only you can decide if price is more important than repeated inconvenience.
How long you intend to keep the vehicle should figure into your decision too.

 

Other than the screen showing the Life Expectancy Test, your results don't look bad. The voltage differences you are showing are below the threshold that would normally create an error code and the battery temperatures shown do not indicate that the battery is overheating. Given the history of the car, it is probably worth taking a look at the battery fan, regardless, and what needs to be recognized about the screen shots you have provided is that they are just snapshots of your battery parameters at 2 different points in time, which may not reveal that much. Further, they were both taken when the battery is at a low State of Charge. Taking a screen shot after force charging the battery to get to a higher SOC might show a different picture, but really the most revealing type of analysis you could do would be to log the parameter values under both high and low SOC conditions as you drive down the road. There are functions in either Torque Pro or Hybrid Assistant for that purpose. I'm not aware of whether that can be done using Dr. Prius by itself.

 

clean the inside of the battery case too.

if you wind up needing a new one, consider how much longer you want to keep the car, and the egr circuit issue.

 

Doesn't look like a HV fan issue, you can clearly see >8 volts on it.
Doesn't look like a HV fan filter issue either, the 3 temp sensor shows < 70F. If filter needed cleaning, your temps would be in the 100Fs.
Just from 2 screenshots, voltage difference between highest & lowest voltage are within normal ranges- no more than 0.3 volts difference.

But first I would pull the CEL and then check 12v bat. Some fella had the dreaded p080a code and changed the 12v battery, the code went away.

My next edumacated guess after the 12v check would be buss bars.

 

I agree. Mostly because 11.3 volts with little or no load indicates a DEAD batttery.
Make sure that your new one is fully charged and check the charging voltage after install.
It should be around 13.6 volts.