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Despite the Synthetic Oil requirement, 5000 mile change intervals are still "required"

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by HTMLSpinnr, Apr 30, 2009.

  1. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    Finished downloading a bunch of info from techinfo.toyota.com. One of these was the Warranty/Maintenance guide. Also downloaded the Owner's Manual.

    The 5000 mile oil change interval is still retained, despite the requirement for 0W-20 oil.

    Oil requirements:

    Total oil fill 4.4qt w/ filter, 4.1qt w/o. Owner's manual (current revision) lists how to get to oil, but has no mention of the oil filter.

    There is a 5000 mile oil maintenance reminder in the MID that starts warning at 4500 miles. Reset process is the same as the current vehicles.
     
  2. pr0230

    pr0230 Junior Member

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    First , I am do not own a prius yet, the 2010 will be my first.

    I do change my own oil and have always used Mobile 1.

    Any of you guys have a preference, Royal Purple, Castrol (yuk) ,
    others?
     
  3. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    I'll probably look closely @ Mobile 1 0W-20.
     
  4. ComfortablyNumb

    ComfortablyNumb Junior Member

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    Can you post the owners manual? Looks like that site requires a subscription. Thanks!
     
  5. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    Technically, no, I can't without Toyota's explicit permission. The subscription is $10/day, which for those who can spend the time "gathering", it's well worth the price of admission. Even when it goes up to $15/day next month, I feel it's still worth it.

    I kinda wish some of the materials were available in one large PDF vs. in small chunks, but that may defeat the purpose of on-demand access to the materials.
     
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  6. cycledrum

    cycledrum PSOCSOASP

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    The 2010 requires synthetic motor oil?

    You mean despite synthetic oil recommendations, Toyota requires 5,000 mile change intervals to comply with the warranty.
     
  7. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    Last bit of checking I did, 0W-20 wasn't available in dino-juice form, only 5W-20.


    "Requires" in that the car will continue to nag at that interval. There are arguments either way surrounding warranty coverage, etc.

    I'd be willing to bet that other countries are more lax on their mileage intervals.

    This is by far one of the areas where Toyota USA can improve the Eco friendly image of the Prius, by consuming less motor oil and creating less of a disposal burden.
     
  8. patsparks

    patsparks An Aussie perspective

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  9. john1701a

    john1701a Prius Guru

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    It's synthetic. So, less oil is consumed anyway.

    And this could translate to an effort to get mechanics to stop overfilling (a blatant waste). Do you really think they'll be as careless when using the more expensive stuff?
    .
     
  10. mikepaul

    mikepaul Senior Member

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    That 'must be replaced' part bugs me. How much have they changed the engine design to where 5W-20 would bog it down if used repeatedly?...
     
  11. Mike Dimmick

    Mike Dimmick Active Member

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    UK is currently 12 months/10,000 miles, Europe is 12 months/15,000km. This is fairly competitive with other cars. I don't think there's any science behind it, just that they're getting away with any potential for sludge buildup.

    Given our generally more humid climate, this could lead to greater acid build-up, but we don't have extremes of temperature either (-4ºC this January was very cold for us).

    No, they'll do what they do now - bulk fill too fast, too much, with 10W-40.

    0W and 5W have identical viscosity at the test temperature of 0ºF (-18ºC). 0W starts to pour at a colder temperature. Car maintenance bibles: Oil Viscosity..
     
  12. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    Only if they're charged the difference out of their paychecks.

    A blatent overfill will be far more difficult in US terms - 4.4qts could possibly be rounded to 4.5 being a marginal overfill, and rounding all the way up to 5 would be extreme. You can bet on dealers charging for 5 qts regardless.

    I reviewed the oil change procedure in the repair manual yesterday. This is a tad more complicated than your standard oil change w/ the "required" cover removals. I think some of us called this out @ PCD.

    Steps are as follows (w/o pics it can be somewhat vague):

    Parts required:

    • SST 09228-06501 - oil filter cap assembly "cap wrench"
    • Oil Filter Element (no p/n)
    • Oil Filter Cap O-Ring (no p/n)
    • Oil Drain Plug Gasket (no p/n, but I imagine it's the same as before)
    • 4.4qt 0W-20 Oil (5W-20 can be used if 0W-20 is unavailable, but 0W-20 must be used at the next change interval per manual)

    1a. Remove Front Spoiler Cover (if equipped)
    -or-
    1b. Remove Engine Under Cover (if equipped)
    2. Remove No 1. Engine Under Cover
    3. Drain engine oil.
    a) Remove oil filler cap
    b) Remove oil pan drain plug and gasket, and drain the oil into a container.
    c) Clean and install drain plug w/ new gasket, torque to 27 ft/lb
    4. Remove Oil Filter Cap Assembly
    a) Using SST, loosen the oil filter cap 4 revolutions, align the cap ribs vertically, and drain remaining engine oil in the cap.
    There's a warning not to remove the bracket clip and a hint to place a container beneath the filter cap prior to loosening.
    b) Remove the oil filter cap assembly
    c) Remove the oil filter element and O-ring from the oil filter cap.
    5. Install Oil Filter Cap Assembly
    a) Clean Oil Filter Cap threads and O-ring groove.
    b) Apply a small amount of engine oil to a new O-ring and install in the oil filter cap
    c) Set a new oil filter element in the oil filter cap.
    d) Remove any dirt or or foreign matter from the installation surfaces and from the inside of the engine.
    e) Apply, a second time, a small amount of engine oil to the O-ring of the oil filter cap assembly. Align the cutout in the oil filter cap threads 90° to the grooves in the oil filter bracket and temporarily tighten the cap.
    A note is provided to ensure the O-ring doesn't get caught between the parts while threading
    f) Using the SST, tighten the oil filter cap assembly to 18 ft/lb
    A note is provided to check for gaps in the installation suraces, don't remove the oil filter cap bracket clip during installation, and do not cross-thread the cap assembly.
    6. Add engine oil and install the filler cap.
    For USA: Grade - ILSAC multigrade 0W-20
    For Canada: ILSAC multigrade 0W-20 or 5W-20. 0W-20 is the best choice for fuel economy and good starting in cold weather conditions.
    Capacity:

    • Drain/refill with filter: 4.2L/4.4 US qts
    • Drain/refill without filter: 3.9L/4.1 US qts
    • Dry fill: 4.7L/5.0 US qts
    7. Inspect for engine oil leaks.
    a) Put the engine in inspection mode.
    b) Start the engine.
    c) Check for oil leaks from the connected parts of the oil filter cap and the oil drain plug.
    8. Install No. 1 Engine Under Cover
    9a. Install Engine Under Cover (w/ cover)
    -or-
    9b. Install Front Spoiler Cover (w/ front spoiler)


    Now assuming the tech reads the instructions correctly and puts in the drain/refill amount vs. the dry fill amount, we should be fine.
     
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  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Rick,

    Thanks for publishing the oil change directions. If 5W-20 is acceptable for use in Canada then it will be fine in the US, although you might have a slight mpg hit esp. in cold ambient climates.

    It will also be interesting to find out whether the cited capacities are accurate when compared to the dipstick reading.
     
  14. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    Wow, what a PITA to change the oil. I bet BT Tech will do well if they make another skid plate fit for the 2010 with easy access to the filter and drain plug.
    [​IMG]
    Personally, were I getting the 2010, I'd do an oil change at about 2000-2500 miles, then check a sample with a UOA at 7500 miles (5000 miles after the first change), and plan on a change at 12,500 miles (10k after first change). Do a UOA on that to be absolutely certain all is well with the oil. If so, I'd go every 10k miles thereafter. That oughta save most people at least $50/year by doing your own oil changes every 10k miles. (not counting the cost of the UOAs the first year).
     
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  15. raidbuck

    raidbuck New Member

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    My dealership offers free oil changes for life. Since I drive around 35K per year that means I won't be getting the maintenance package, but will get the extended warranty.

    I have to remember to check what oil they will use on the Prius. I'm sure they didn't anticipate free oil changes with expensive oil like the Prius requires/recommends.

    Rich N.
     
  16. raidbuck

    raidbuck New Member

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    I just wanted to understand since my dealer offers free oil changes for life. Does the manual require/recommend synthetic 0W-20 or just 0W-20?

    Thanks,
     
  17. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    0W-20 is only synthetic at this time. The lowest "dino-juice" grade is 5W-20.
     
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  18. ceric

    ceric New Member

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    True. There is no conventional oil at 0W-20 grade.
    It costs $3-$5 at Toyota dealership per qt.
    This surely will make your oil change more expensive by $15.
     
  19. cycledrum

    cycledrum PSOCSOASP

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    Not necessarily ...

    IIRC, group 3 oils are labeled 'synthetic' but come from highly refined crude oil (i.e. Castrol Syntec).

    The group 4's and 5's are the 'pure' synthetics. I think one is Ester based (I forgot the other name).
     
  20. skruse

    skruse Senior Member

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    I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil and Mobil 1 (extra capacity) oil filter. The Prius is very easy to do oil changes. Oil is recycled at Kragen. I do my own oil changes because it is more cost effective and the dealer consistently overfills the oil and overcharges for Mobil 1 synthetic oil.