Crazing banging noise but goes away when in reverse

How it all started, my car burns a little oil. My mom was driving it and it started to lose power and stutter without any banging. She drove a little bit and pulled over in a parking lot. Then she checked the oil and it was low so she added w20-50 conventional. She tried to start it and it started banging she called me again told me she had put 20-50, I went over there and changed the oil myself right away in the parking lot and put 0w-20 synthetic. Tried It was still banging and shaking the engine violently. Towed it home and left it for the night. It still makes a really loud banging noise but does go away when I go in reverse. (Please check videos) only 15 seconds each.

Things to note:
1. The banging noise is significantly decreased when I drive in reverse.
2. the last oil change before this one was not done by me but by a shop.
3.The hybrid battery has been giving me trouble and the light comes on but I unplug the 12 volt and plug it back and it works fine, just squeezing that last bit of life out of it before I replace it. The code is “change battery pack”
4. I did get a recall letter about two days ago for a software update that might burn the inverter, I doubt they’re related in any way.

1. Loud noise (without putting it in reverse)

2. When I put it in reverse

3. First start up in the next morning

Here’s my theory, the oil was low and it needed to be topped off but the extremely thick 20-50 oil is still stuck in the engine not letting the 0-20 flow properly.
Thank you all very much!

 

I haven’t tried accelerating with this noise, however the last time the car was working it started losing power it got pulled over and then tried starting it again and the noise started.

 

Thank you no dash lights except low tire pressure light, and “oil maintenance required” I was hoping to see oil pressure is low because that would just mean oil Is not getting into the engine and that’s the core cause and can simply change the oil pump. I do not own an OBD scanner do you think that would be helpful in this case? I can buy one.

 

I sent the video to a mechanic because I won’t be able to just tow it around shopping for mechanic he said he’ll just replace the engine with a 90k mike engine for 1,500 total (the one in it now has 170k but I don’t know if It’s toast or fixable)

 

1.I have not heard of the EGR needing to be cleaned or what it is. Is that something I should investigate on??
2.I have only owned the car for the last 20,30 tjousand miles it currently has 169k
3. I have not taken the manifold off but I’ve only owned it for a short percentage of It’s life. It might be worth noting I bought it from an auction it wasn’t a salvage auction, a dealer was selling it because it had high miles I think? I know it wasn’t an insurance auction. I had to go with my friend who has a dealer license.
4. It does shake in Park and more violently in drive not significantly more. As for reverse if you watch the video and listen closely you still hear the engine idling but It’s smooth running It’s not misfiring anymore. Could it be a transmission problem or a timing belt problem??? I’ve never adjusted the timing chain/belt. The only maintenance I’ve done is oil and brake jobs

 

I live in the west palm beach area, not much salt but a lot of rain. I believe there is a misfire I don’t know if It’s all cylinders or just some. I know you can peek through the spark plug holes to see if the walls are damaged, is that easy to do on this engine? To get the spark plugs out and all that ?
For the j2534 I think I’ll invest in one, I can see it being great help. What next? Wait for it to arrive?

 

West palm beach

 

I’ll wait on the one I ordered to arrive. I can see it being very helpful in the future, as for the software where do I get it from?

 

I’ll go ahead and clean as much as I can should I try starting it after? Or wait for the dongle to arrive