Combination Meter HELP!!!!

Do any of the other beats that comes through the speaker on the back of the combination monitor beep my if your break accumulator has low pressure I think you can hit the zero down and tech stream and maybe zero the accumulator that should make that same speaker on the CM monitor beep too and there are other things I'm sure but those are just come to mind? If the car was reassembled just like it was before all this started and the combination monitor went out and you went to the back of the car and loosen the ground from the battery to the car frame through that little plastic tab that's right there where the plastic tray mounts to cover the battery if you loosen the 10 mm screw on the ground and move it around and hear the electrical cracking and then you see the hatch open light light up on the dash you tighten down that ground go up to the front of the car push the button usually if you have that hatch open light on when you start the car you're going to have a combination meter or a CM monitor?

 

I had to look and make sure you were a generation 2. What I'm asking is this when your combination meter the speedometer and gas gauge are acting up as in they don't come on when you turn on the car with the button prior to that did you notice that when you open the door the red light on the dashboard didn't tell you the door was open??? Go verify that so right now your speedometer hasn't been working the last day so you go out to the car now or later today or whenever you're going to use it and you open the door look at your dash do you see that the door is open by the red icon on the dash no? If no close the door go to the hatch and open it where the battery is there's a little plastic door that sits right up under your tail lights If you flip that little door down and push it to the right it'll come off and you can lay it and sit it on the carpeted cover of the battery when you look through that hole there's a ground strap from the battery to the frame of the car If you take a 10 mm quarter inch drive socket and a 6-in extension or longer you can loosen this bolt you'll hear the electric crackling noises when you loosen the bolt and move You don't take the bolt out move the wire and do this while you're looking at the combination meter when you see the red light come on showing that the trunk hatch is open lockdown the ground strap making sure you're looking at the combination display and that the light does not go out while you're tightening the ground strap The minute that red light comes on your display is going to work now you can walk to the front of the car leave the hatch open or close it if you want open the door driver door you see the light come on again showing that the door is open the minute you sit in the car and push the power button with your foot on the brake the display is on correct I know it is.

 

Want that display to stay on when you shut the car down this evening slide a piece of plastic over the latch in the trunk close the trunk It looks like it's closed the criminals won't really know and you see the red light on the dash showing that the hatch is open Go in and go to bed when you come out in the morning that red light on the dash shows that the hatch is open move the plastic close the hatch open the door see the red light break and push the button and your display is on it'll do that everyday if you do just that or replace the combination meter assembly place in Texas has it for you 175 bucks completely renewed

 

Right so now close the door go to the trunk open it move the ground wire till you see the light come on the dash indicating there's a door open and now you're display will come on to make that display work everyday without doing this dance again Make sure the trunk doesn't lock all the way so you when you look through the window of the trunk you see the light on the dash indicating that there's a door open and there is because as long as you keep that light on you'll have a display doesn't go to sleep whatever you want to call it Will this kill your 12 volt hasn't killed mine yet I've been driving a car with this problem for almost 2 years and this is the way I make it I can go out in the morning close the trunk turn on the car have a display not do anything very similar to like normal driving with a good display then when you get a chance I just ordered the Texas hybrid display get the $25 back for the core 50 whatever it is it cost me $175 it's done properly there's no messing around the dash comes apart and goes back together once while I have it apart I remove that beeper speaker from the back of the new display so now I have nothing to irritate me You could get fancy and run those two wires to a small speaker or something that you could flip a switch to turn off but I don't want to hear it at all The lights do plenty for me.

 

This is a tough one... There's so many systems that have electrons they depend on run through that meter and it sounds like whatever is wrong is damaging the meters you're using. Perhaps something is sending a higher voltage than it should? Seems like figuring out which part in the car is capable of doing that and swapping out that part would be one way to keep trying? Maybe an ECU?

 

Good voltage readings. First thing that grabs me is pin 21 (yellow wire). That should have battery power at all times from the 15A "dome" fuse. (does the dome light work?)

The turn signal indicator coming on is suggestive of a ground circuit problem at the right front light assembly.

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If you look at your picture 202158, that's a 32 pin (2 x 16) connector, that should be C10.

Look at the wires closest to your index finger (the "back" row). There's a red wire (pin 20), a yellow (pin 21), and a purple (pin 22).

The diagram shows pin 21 changes color (yellow to blue at connector IG2) and gets power from the DOME fuse (always battery power).

Pin 22 (purple) should have 12V power when the car is turned (ignition) on.

According to your voltage test chart, pin 21 on your problem car is 0V.




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You need your own copy of the service manual with full wiring diagrams. That circuit goes through several junction blocks to get to the Dome fuse.

Find everything on the Dome fuse then see if it all works - all the interior courtesy lights. Dome,map , vanity (in the sun visors), cargo, even the little led that lights the key slot in the dash.

The idea is to find out what branches of the circuit have power or not. That will narrow down where you have to look for the problem.

For example the overhead dome light gets power from a junction (gray rectangle) that's part of connector 1A pin 13 on the posted diagram above. (All circuits don't appear on this single diagram)

In this case the red wire on the diagram is "good" - because the dome light is "downstream" of it and that works. The pink and blue wires (or connections and the other junction) are still suspect.

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