1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Collision damage to AC Condenser

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Trafficat, Jul 8, 2024.

  1. Trafficat

    Trafficat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2024
    27
    4
    0
    Location:
    New Reno, Nukevada, Merica
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    After a collision with a rock, apparently to the passenger bottom of the front, the A/C is now blowing hot air.

    EDIT: Thread title says condenser, but I guess this is the compressor.

    Based on these pictures is it pretty safe to say this AC Compressor is toast?

    My plan is to replace the compressor and figure out how to refill with the gas. I'm guessing I can unbolt this thing and reattach a new one, some on ebay mention they come with lubricant of some kind installed. Then I guess fill with gas. Possibly as simple as buying a thingy and pushing it into a nipple. Or maybe I need some more advanced instrumentation to do it right?

    If anyone has any thoughts after looking at the pictures let me know. Kinda praying at this point I can swap it out and don't have damage to any lines.

    I believe this is showing a large crack between the base where the bolts go gin and the compressor

    1
    upload_2024-7-7_21-1-36.png

    The bolts are kinda smushed. I'm guessing this must have been the contact point with the rock. The only other known damage to the car is that the air intake resonator got torn off.

    2
    upload_2024-7-7_21-2-45.png

    I think there is a crack above the bolt tube on both of them, and my finger came away with black fluid touching the region. So I'm guessing that the system is leaking from those bolts and that it may be the source of my troubles.
    3
    upload_2024-7-7_21-3-56.png

    This tube looking thing from the compressor is now touching the oil filter... bent I guess, but I am not seeing much damage... still a bit concerning that there could be more damage to this system than just to the compressor. I don't see obvious problems other than bent parts, but I'm not the most trained eye. Not sure what will happen when I need to replace the oil filter, but I'm guessing it shouldn't be a problem.

    4
    upload_2024-7-7_21-4-58.png
    upload_2024-7-7_21-5-44.png

    5
    upload_2024-7-7_21-6-14.png

    6
    upload_2024-7-7_21-6-51.png

    Some kind of fluid leaked out onto the bottom plastic protector. It seemed clear but somewhat slimy.

    Thanks in advance for the help.
     
    #1 Trafficat, Jul 8, 2024
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2024
  2. Trafficat

    Trafficat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2024
    27
    4
    0
    Location:
    New Reno, Nukevada, Merica
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Codes are 21 23 33 43 62 when starting with a/c auto and recirc buttons on dash.

    Where can I find the meaning of these codes?
     
    #2 Trafficat, Jul 8, 2024
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2024
  3. Trafficat

    Trafficat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2024
    27
    4
    0
    Location:
    New Reno, Nukevada, Merica
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    compressor makes no noise when running AC and does not feel warm or vibrate
     
  4. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    7,854
    3,967
    0
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    The Repair manual. Do you have a copy to refer to?

    It doesn't always work this way but for the A/C codes the two-digit blink code maps directly the the last two digits of the DTC. The first three characters of the DTC are B14, so your codes would be B1421, B1423, B1433, etc.
    Fairly sure that the compressor should be running.
     
    Trafficat likes this.
  5. Trafficat

    Trafficat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2024
    27
    4
    0
    Location:
    New Reno, Nukevada, Merica
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    I was looking at something that seemed like a repair manual, and I think I found that the 21 code meant something irrelevant but maybe I didn't find the other things. I will try and relocate that pdf I found somewhere and check for the B14 codes.

    Considering the apparently cracked housing which seems to have leaked an oily substance, my guess is that the whole system is compromised and there is no more lubricant nor refrigerant in the system. Since I hear and feel no commotion from the compressor, perhaps it is possible that it has burnt out from trying to run without oil and it is totally dead.

    I guess I will order a refurbished compressor that supposedly comes with lubricant in it. Then take the old one off, and put new one on, connect everything, get a vacuum pump to evacuate the system of air, and verify that it holds vacuum, add R134a, and hope for the best.
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    10,373
    1,792
    0
    Location:
    Durham NC
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Time is of the essence but you need to do now is unbolt the compressor and the pipes leave the pipes hanging put a piece of blue tape over the pipes or whatever you have some rubber stuff called dumb dumb yeah I know and so your pipes will be somewhat blocked off and moisture is not just flying into the pipes to the desiccant sac. This will give you a few minutes some time to figure out what you're going to do here everything should be damaged that's right there at the compressor The damage just doesn't go down the line because there's some tubes connecting everything was the compressor running when it hit the rock? More than likely it just hit got compromised the pressure leaked out take the compressor off seal up the pipes figure out what you're going to do for a compressor and anything else that you see smashed and messed up Make sure when you go get your other compressor you take the bolts with you or you have the yard pull the bolts and give them to you with the compressor then you can go ahead and install the compressor connect up the pipes maybe put new o-rings on the pipes they're black or green on the end of the pipes put a little lubricant on them doesn't matter what it is insert the pipes tighten up the bolts now you're sitting good nothing can go in and out of the system anymore the pipes are connected back to a predominantly sealed system at this point most people are going to tell you you need the pool a vacuum with an air compressor or a air pump and bring it to minus 30 in of vacuum and it needs to sit there for 30 minutes and not move the gauge after that you're looking to drop approximately 1.2 lb of freon into your system and it should work again pretty much pretty uneventful really and let's try to stay away from these boulders holy Jesus I would have hoped this would be off-road on a dirt road driveway something.
     
    Trafficat likes this.
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    56,671
    39,222
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Repair Manual excerpts attached. The links don’t work; if the doc’s helpful but referencing something else crucial let me know; I’ll try to find and upload.
     

    Attached Files:

    Trafficat likes this.
  8. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 12, 2018
    7,427
    6,913
    1
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Vehicle:
    2018 Prius c
    Model:
    Two

    More likely the system is locked out by the pressure switch. It prevents the compressor from activating when the overall system pressure is either too high or too low. If the system leaked out, the switch will have tripped the low-pressure side and the controller won't attempt to run the compressor until this is corrected.

    I'd probably try a leak test before buying a compressor. I'd want to be real sure I knew where the leak was before spending that much.
     
    Trafficat likes this.
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    24,904
    16,213
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    The B1423 is about the pressure switch, sure enough. The refrigerant has leaked out. The slimy stuff is the oil the refrigerant is mixed with.

    B1421 is only there as a way to tell the solar sensor on the dash works. If it is not in bright light, you have B1421.

    The B1433 and B1443 are about a servo motor in the dash that selects which outlets the air will come out of. B1462 is about the inside humidity sensor (it's behind a small grillwork in the plastic above the driver's knee). Being both inside under the dash, the servo and the humidity sensor don't seem like likely candidates for damage by the same rock that hit the compressor. I wonder if those codes could have been preexisting?
     
    Trafficat likes this.
  10. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2020
    3,668
    1,715
    0
    Location:
    NJ-USA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    I do not know what else was hurt from the impact. The compressor is cracked and was shoved up "a bunch". Hope the mounting points on the engine aren't cracked as well.

    It looks like the radiator crossmember was tweaked some. In pic #5 you can see the hose assembly is touching the crossmember- there should be a gap there.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    Trafficat likes this.
  11. Trafficat

    Trafficat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2024
    27
    4
    0
    Location:
    New Reno, Nukevada, Merica
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    I really appreciate all of the insight and links to documentation. The code reading is wonderful. The insight about the pressure switch is great. It wasn't apparent to me that the compressor had been shoved up, for instance, since I am not keenly aware of where it was before.

    Here is the compressor after removing it, alongside my new compressor that came prefilled with lube:

    8
    upload_2024-7-13_9-22-46.png

    9
    upload_2024-7-13_9-25-30.png

    You can see the entire bolt housing came off. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that the crack went through the housing all the way on that side. The bolt housing is cracked above the other bolt too, but I also doubt the crack went through the entire housing. I find this frustrating because I was hoping the source of the refrigerant leak would be obvious. The bolts is really greasy though so I am kind of hoping somehow the leak was from the housing above that other bolt.


    10
    upload_2024-7-13_9-28-51.png

    I can see some spiral plastic sheath stuff missing from a refrigerant line here but I doubt this is the issue... no residue anywhere, and this is really far from where any collision action happened.
    11
    upload_2024-7-13_9-26-9.png


    This section (12) looks quite suspect with all the grease on it. Or maybe it is motor oil since this thing sits right next to the oil filter. (The white thing almost touching it is the oil filter). I think the lube in the compressor is clear so it would only be dark from accumulating grime, and this is actually too much.

    12
    upload_2024-7-13_9-29-38.png

    For now I am using electrical tape to cover the ends of the refrigerant lines to avoid contamination. (My new pump came with new O rings for later, too)
    13
    upload_2024-7-13_9-30-4.png

    I probably should have just got new bolts, but I sanded the existing bolts down to reuse them
    14
    upload_2024-7-13_9-34-44.png
    15
    upload_2024-7-13_9-34-57.png

    16 - 12 socket now fits over them. I think I used a 13 spanner to take them off.
    upload_2024-7-13_9-36-2.png

    17 - New compressor mounted with the old bolts:

    upload_2024-7-13_9-36-51.png

    I still have yet to attach the lines first. I am contemplating whether to attach them and try a vacuum test or go into "replace more parts" mode first. I still have to get the vacuum pump and gauges soon, (probably from Harbor Freight), plus it's getting hot out, so I can justify some delay before hooking up the refrigerant lines.

    Again, thanks everyone. This forum is a delightful resource.
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  12. Trafficat

    Trafficat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2024
    27
    4
    0
    Location:
    New Reno, Nukevada, Merica
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    The A/C was almost certainly running when it hit the rock, as it was over 90*F (32*C) out. I wasn't personally in the car at the time of the collision but I am fairly certain A/C would have been on.
     
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    10,373
    1,792
    0
    Location:
    Durham NC
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    I would connect the lines at this point now that you've mounted the compressor with the screwed up bolt heads which makes no difference just don't make them too tight that you're going to strip them if you have to take them off and pull a vacuum and see what you got That's exactly right All that residual blackness on the hoses you're seeing there is some kind of vapor or something that's gone on in the past or some time ago you could spray it with super clean and blast it off if you really were so inclined on such an older vehicle wouldn't make any difference except for looks. If your vacuum holds. Then you're okay but your pressure switch problem is another story It's not removable at least not easily so either before you pull the vacuum undo the piping with the pressure switch and whatnot in it and go to another car or buy a new one It's available aftermarket I do believe It's nothing real special Make sure that pressure switch can work or are you may be able to join the wires and bypass it temporarily and make the system operate but then you're going to have to remove the gas to replace the part so you may just want to do that now and only use one load of gas and one vacuum pool
     
    Trafficat likes this.
  14. Trafficat

    Trafficat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2024
    27
    4
    0
    Location:
    New Reno, Nukevada, Merica
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    So, I attached the manifold gauges and the 3 CFM vacuum pump, and brought it down to vacuum.

    I was concerned at first because I was only getting like -26 inches of mercury or something. But then I realized that because I'm at 5000 feet elevation, that's normal.

    18 Manifold Gauges
    upload_2024-7-15_21-47-50.png

    I brought the vacuum to about as low as it could go, then I let it sit for 45 minutes. Sadly, no vacuum held. At first my instinct was to go on a part buying spree. But then I realized, I had left the vacuum pump attached and the low pressure valve on the manifold open. The 3 CFM Harbor Freight vacuum pump does not hold a vacuum when off. Only with the fan going. I would find out, by trying again after closing the center yellow line on the manifold gauge to itself. Then the vacuum held for 1.5 hours.

    Satisfied, I put the pump back on, and ran the vacuum for 3 hrs and 15 minutes to try and get any humidity out of the system.

    Then I closed the low pressure valve on the manifold gauge, replaced the pump with the R134A, turned the car on and the A/C on, opened the valve and put an entire 12 oz can in. The pressure switch functioned just fine and the compressor turned itself on when the pressure got high enough.

    Great. I closed the low pressure valve, replaced the R134A can with another and used a scale with the plan to measure 3.9 oz. That's when things went awry. Opening the low pressure valve, nothing happened. Well almost. It seemed at first like the can got lighter, then it got heavier. I'm not sure if I was leaning on the scale or what happened. But overall the can would not empty. Ten minutes passed and no weight change occurred. I heard a hiss when I went to bleed the yellow line, but apparently it was just air. I figured I must've done something wrong and scoured the internet, meanwhile I felt the A/C which seemed pretty cold.

    19 Refrigerant attached to manifold gauge on scale
    upload_2024-7-15_21-8-0.png

    I found some forum online where someone said "maybe the can is not getting punctured." So I took it off, and sure enough, the can would not release any refrigerant when I opened the valve not connected to anything. Stupid defective can. So possibly, I opened the low pressure valve to a hose full of mostly air.

    I fiddled with the can and loosening the tightness of the valve connection and tightening the puncturer thing I got a very slight hiss. I reattached the can and very slowly released approximately 4 oz of refrigerant into the system. Not sure exactly how much. It leaked so slowly my digital scale turned itself off and lost its zero so I'm not exactly sure how much went in, plus I suspect with the loosened lid on the can I could have lost some to the atmosphere or worse let air in. The low pressure gauge seemed to drop from around 30 in. Hg to around 26 by the time I was done, which I was not expecting. I should have returned the can and got another one instead of trying to fiddle with it further.

    In any case, my A/C is now blowing cold. I don't know if the system is contaminated with air. I don't know if I have the right amount of refrigerant, or slightly too much, or if I lost a lot through the can connection. Kind of a sloppy job, but I'll just see how it goes. Hopefully it doesn't kill the compressor or something.
     

    Attached Files:

    #14 Trafficat, Jul 16, 2024
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2024
  15. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    10,373
    1,792
    0
    Location:
    Durham NC
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Whew the struggles real..
     
    Trafficat likes this.
  16. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    10,373
    1,792
    0
    Location:
    Durham NC
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Sounds like me when I pick up the television remote luckily I don't watch TV so.
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    56,671
    39,222
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    If ever doing that again: occasionally tapping the weight on the scale (to change it) will keep such scales awake.
     
    #17 Mendel Leisk, Jul 16, 2024
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2024
    Trafficat likes this.
  18. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    10,373
    1,792
    0
    Location:
    Durham NC
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    So these cans of free on are 12 oz not 16 oz or 1 lb cans cool weird. So with those kind of cans you'd need like 1.7 cans or something close to it.
     
    Trafficat likes this.
  19. Trafficat

    Trafficat New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2024
    27
    4
    0
    Location:
    New Reno, Nukevada, Merica
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    A 16 ounce can would have been very helpful.