Code P0A80 + P3013 All Battery Cells reading good! Any thoughts?

In a word, yes.

Remember, all the computers that are making this judgement on your hybrid battery (and how to use it) are running on that 12v battery. If they don't have a stable power supply, they might make a mistake. Or two.

 

While you have the battery out, set up a spreadsheet with all the voltages for future reference... Also get a 50w 12v headlight bulb (non-LED) and hook it up to each of the 28 modules for 2 minutes and record the voltage loss on the spread sheet. I suspect you'll find a bad module in block #3, but maybe not. The cooling fan going on is from the pack getting hot because a cell inside a module is starting to fail.

And while you're in there, inspect the 14 voltage sensing wires for corrosion, especially where they plug into the hybrid battery ECU, I've often seen corrosion in that plug lead to a short circuit. If there's significant corrosion in that system all new voltage sensors and bus bars for that side of that pack is called "Wire, Frame" and Toyota dealers sell it for only $50, though many corrupt stealerships jack that price up to $90 cause they're greedy and don't care about customer loyalty.

 

IMO, no. An old 2007 HV battery sitting for months unused especially in the heat is the most likely reason for HV battery codes. But YES change the 12v too.

GOOD LUCK!

 

Rock tumbler is the most efficient way to clean bus bars, but you need lots of bus bars to do that efficiently... And yes, wire frame comes wit everything, just not the bus bars on the other side, not the nuts... And yes, record the voltage at the 2 minute mark while the bulb is still burning. If you can't find the bad module this way, then put the pack in and wait till it heats up and the fan starts spinning then use a thermal imaging camera to find the module that's heating the pack up and replace it.

 

Main negative cable connects to module #1 and main positive cable connects to module #28, or I guess in a Camry it would be module #34?

 

No, absolutely not!

You have a bad cell in the hybrid battery. This is not a false reading caused by a weak 12 volt battery. That
just does not happen.

I have never bothered to confirm which way the count runs on a Camry. If you're going to do a proper rebuild and condition and test all the modules there is just no need to know. I suspect that your module with a resting voltage of 7.69 volts is the bad one. Is it the 5th or 6th module from either end? Measuring the resting voltage of a module is really not "testing" them. In my experience a module that is .2 volts below the rest of an umolested pack is in the early stages of failure. If you keep driving with the failed module it will rest at 6.XX volts and be an obvious failure. The two end modules do tend to run .1 volts below the rest and this is not an indication of a problem. A light bulb load test will confirm which module has failed.

At a minimum you have to replace the failed module.

 

Hey, he said "could" not "is"...

 

So the less you know about what you're doing or how the pack functions is something you don't need to know? That's crazy talk!!!

Also, there's a dozen ways to hunt down a bad module before it goes bad and as you point out modules with self-discharge voltages lower than other modules is one way to do that, but there's lots of other ways too, but maybe that's also something you think you don't need to know to do a proper job?

 

Start the counting from where the battery ECU is positioned (same way for a gen1).

 

Actually they likely changed that after Gen1, if that was even the case in Gen 1? It's based on how electrons flow out of the pack:

Module #1 starts furthest away from ECU picking up ~8v more after each module... But it is indeed confusing... But if you think about it... #1 module negative thru #28 module positive is the flow of the DC electrical current / electrons coming out of a Prius pack... There's so much more to it than that and I'm too tired to explain right now. But if you think I'm wrong then post some valid proof...

 

1. For me, I'd go ahead and replaced all the module pairs in bank 3(but you could do only one of the two modules in that bank, if you don't have money to buy two modules)
2. Load test the other modules, just in case when you couple back, other banks don't come "dancing around".
3. My concerns sometimes is after replacing modules, you may have to go back replacing modules. Might be better getting newer modules and swapped in there completely, or get another pack.

 

A pack I worked on near a month ago replaced the bad module and the module on both sides of that module... While I don't know if that's the best way to do it, that particular pack had really good numbers on its spreadsheet... So I'll call you on your two module theory and raise you another module. Hopefully someone will help clarify where this bet is going?

 

You just can't escape some things in life: death, taxes and eventually replacing all the modules with new ones . . .

 

You are missing the point. While pulling and replacing one failed module is fine for a DIY approach I would never do that kind of work for someone else. When you condition and test all the modules the order of the count is moot. It just does not matter.

The 12 volt battery being the cause of all problems is an urban legend. A few months ago ChapmanF challenged everyone to come up with one case of replacing a 12 volt battery fixing false codes. No cases could be found.

 

Well, then I'm guilty of reinforcing it, and you've given me something new to consider.

 

Yes, understand the intent of what you were trying to say... I was simply questioning your presentation... Specifically, high voltage DC batteries send electrons from the negative end of the pack out through the positive end of the pack and its a basic fundamental that's better to explain than dismiss if you're trying to help people understand how the vehicle works.