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Classic Prius Coolant Replacement

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by BentSpace, Jun 27, 2011.

  1. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Hi everyone. My 2002 has 152K on it and I'm planning on replacing the coolant in the engine and inverter. Got a jug of 100% TLLC over at Carquest, which was cheaper than the dealer. From reading on here the procedure seems a little more involved than on other cars I've done in the past. Was wondering if the pages from the factory repair manual detailing the procedure for the classic prius are posted on here anywhere?

    I have been searching for it, but haven't seen anything yet, as there are a lot of posts about coolant. Is it very different than doing it on a 2nd gen?

    Does the manual recommend just a drain and refill or doing a flush?

    One thing about doing a flush I was always wondering about is when trying to flush out your cooling system with a hose, on a lot of system ~50% of capacity can't be drained and is stuck in there. Which is ok if you want tap water in your system, then you just take your total capacity from the manual cut in half and pour that much 100% coolant in and fill the rest with water. Though, if you want to keep you system tap water free and use distilled water as is recommended, then I suppose your only choice is to flush it out with 50/50 TLLC, which could get expensive.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    When you say "TLLC" I assume you mean Toyota Long Life Coolant. I didn't know that Carquest sold that. What was the price?

    The Classic engine coolant change is much easier than 2G because Classic does not have the coolant heat recovery system. Just open the radiator and engine block drains to drain the coolant. Close the two drains and refill with coolant amounting to 50% of system capacity, and the remainder using distilled water. Fill the overflow container using a 50%/50% mix.

    Rev up the engine with the cabin heater temp set to MAX HEAT so that you can get air out of the coolant passages and the heater core. Continue until you do not hear air circulating in the heater core and the coolant level in the radiator does not drop. Make sure the radiator and the overflow container are both full.

    Keep an eye on the coolant level for the next few days and replenish as needed until the level no longer drops down when the engine is cold.

    No need to flush unless you see lots of rust and debris in the old coolant. In that case, flush with distilled water.

    It is much harder to get air out of the Classic inverter coolant loop, compared to 2G, even though Classic has 2 bleed valves. Plan to spend much of an afternoon working on that.
     
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  3. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Yes, Toyota Long Life Coolant. They were asking $22.99, but I got a 10% discount, some how. Know anywhere to get it cheaper?

    Do you happen to have the instructions for the classic inverter coolant replacement please?
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hmm, I think that ~$20 is the going price, but I haven't bought Toyota LLC for a few years (use Toyota SLLC instead.)

    The instructions are:

    Make the car IG-ON and listen to the inverter coolant pump so that you can hear what it should sound like when there's no air in the system. Also look at the inverter coolant reservoir and note the step in the fluid level (where the fluid at the front is higher than at the back of the reservoir) as well as the turbulence in the fluid. All of this shows you that the pump is circulating fluid properly.

    Then make the car IG-OFF. Find the coolant drain plug which is at the bottom of the transaxle, closest to the engine. This requires a 24 mm or 15/16" socket to remove. Do not confuse with the transaxle ATF drain plug which is closer to the driver's side of the car.

    After the fluid has drained, replace the plug using a new aluminum washer and tighten to 29 ft.-lb.

    Fill the inverter coolant reservoir with your coolant/distilled water mixture. Loosen the two bleed valves. Attach vinyl hose leading from the valves to the opening in the coolant reservoir.

    Make the car IG-ON. Listen to the pump running. Note how it sounds like there's air in the system. Open the bleed valves. Refill the reservoir with coolant/water mix. Close the bleed valves. Make the car IG-OFF. Refill the reservoir.

    Repeat this around 20x or more, until you don't hear air bubbling in the system and you see the fluid turbulence in the reservoir. Then fill the reservoir to the MAX line, remove the vinyl hoses, tighten the bleed valves, replace the reservoir cap, and you are done.

    If you find that the bleed process is not yielding results, it may help for you to take a short drive, around the block, then resume the bleed process. Do not drive very far while the inverter coolant loop has air within, as you may overheat and destroy the inverter.
     
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  5. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Does the engine coolant side have a bleed valve(s)?
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    No for Classic; yes for 2G. The 2G radiator has a bleed valve on top, to help in getting air out of the radiator.
     
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  7. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Where do you get your washers from?

    When I called Toyota, the parts guys could find the washer I was telling him about. So, he said to bring it in and he could match it. Though once I take it off I won't be able to get there very easily. He said they sell for $2.
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Toyota part number 90430-18008

    $1.51 MSRP; they are priced at $1.13 at toyotaworld.com
    Champion ToyotaWorld

    While we are talking about gaskets, the oil drain plug gasket part number is
    90430-12031
     
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  9. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Thanks. Just bought it at the dealer, glad I got the right one. Though they charged me 2.27 + tax, what the hell, more than MSRP, what's up with that?
     
  10. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    When I asked the service guy about inverter coolant replacement, he said they charge $199 and pump coolant through it, but this is unnecessary right?
     
  11. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    It is unnecessary; drain and refill is all that is required.
     
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  12. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Is it worth it to rent a pressure tester to test the system for leaks and the radiator cap, as long as I'm fooling around with the cooling system?
     
  13. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Is that "intelligent tester" mentioned in the repair manual as in "(k) Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3" acquirable by mere mortal or is it only obtainable by Toyota techs?
     
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    As a mere mortal, if you wish to spend $1,345 and have access to a Windows laptop, then you too can acquire a close equivalent to the Toyota diagnostic laptop:
    https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...hinfo/html/prelogin/docs/tsliteflyertinfo.pdf

    I wouldn't bother with a pressure tester unless you believe that your engine coolant system has a leak. The way that you would know this is if you note that the engine coolant level has dropped significantly over time; or if you see evidence of a coolant leak such as whitish or pinkish stains on the radiator, hoses, coolant pump, etc.
     
  15. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    :eek: $1,345 for a cable that goes to my laptop. Seems kinda pricey. Oh, I see, mostly is the cost of the software.

    Can I just buy the cable by itself and then try to download the software somewhere?;)
     
  16. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    It won't hurt anything if the engine or inverter coolant is over the full mark, will it?

    I believe the only bad thing that can happen is the excess coolant might come out the overflow tube, but that's about it, right?
     
  17. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    I did notice that in my 2002 Prius Scheduled Maintenance Guide it says to replace the engine and inverter coolant every 30k miles and they say to use the TLLC but if I were to use TSLLC instead would I then only need to change it every 50k or would I still have to stick to the original schedule?

    I also noticed in the explanation of maintenance items section, both for engine coolant and inverter coolant it says "drain and flush the cooling system and refill with an ethylene-glycol type coolant. A qualified technical should perform these operations". So it looks like Toyota thinks the flushing is necessary even though it may not be in real life. 

    And since when do you need a "qualified technician" to change your coolant?
     
  18. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Thank you very much for all your help. You're  a life saver.  

    Just so I know I doing the inverter bleed procedure correct cause I've been at it for quite a few hours now and I still hear not a loud sound for the water pump but like an intermittent squirting sound. Sounds like it still has air in it. 

    I'm a little confused on the bleed  procedure. I have my 2 hoses going from the bleed valves to the reservoir.   The Toyota  repair manual seems to say open bleed valve, let air out, close valve, turn key to on for 20 then repeat, but they say to have the valve closed while the pump is on.  Where as I've seen people say to turn key on, open valve, close valve, key off, repeat. The manual I was looking At was for a 2006 so it might not be valid for a 2002, but which is the correct procedure, please?
     
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I suggest that you use a squeeze bulb to remove any excess coolant, especially from the inverter coolant reservoir.

    50K miles is the correct interval when using SLLC. IMO there is no need to flush if you don't see debris in the drained coolant.

    Regarding your question about why a "qualified technician" is required, you've provided one answer in your question below.

    You may recall that I earlier explained that the Classic inverter coolant bleed process is very difficult. Try the repair manual procedure that you cited, try driving the car around the block. Just keep working at it until you do not hear air in the system and you can see fluid turbulence in the reservoir. Good luck.
     
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  20. BentSpace

    BentSpace Member

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    Does the repair manual for the classic Prius say the same thing as the 2G except for having two bleed valves?

    Are you supposed to open both at the same time or one at a time?