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Clarification on "dead-banding"

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by rdenneyutmb, Mar 8, 2006.

  1. rdenneyutmb

    rdenneyutmb New Member

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    I have been reading numerous threads on the P&G techniques, all of which have been very helpful. But I am left with some questions. Please forgive me if I have missed something obvious.

    I have had an '06 Prius for a little over a week and have been experimenting with pulse and glide. After warm-up, I can get the glide reproducibly and with relatively ease. The pulse strategy is more problematic, both practically and theoretically, and it this aspect that I want to explore in more detail.

    I understand that "dead-banding" is the state of accelerating with no input or output from the battery, and that this state is difficult to achieve, especially on the flat. (With the exception of freeway overpasses, all my P&G practice on the Texas Gulf Coast where I live hs been on ffllaatttt roads...) Before today, I have been focusing on accelerating sufficiently gently to 41 mph using only the ICE, avoiding any electric assist on the assumption that sending ICE energy to the electric motor and then to the wheels would use more energy than sending ICE energy directly to the wheels. Using this approach, I have generally pulsed from about 30 mph to 41 mph in about 12 sec, and glided from 41 and about 30 mph in about 24-25 sec, achieving FE's of anywhere from 68-85 mpg depending on the day and the precise route. The problem I have had (if it is indeed a problem) is that accelerating with only the ICE (and no electric assist), I always see charging of the battery. That is, I had never encountered the "dead-band" state.

    As a novice, I have nevertheless been quite pleased with mpg results, though they do not approach the spectacular FE's by a number of you more experienced P&G afficionados. I wonder whether I could do better by optimizing my acceleration strategy.

    Responding to a number of suggestions from other threads, I experimented today with more brisk acceleration using both the ICE and electric assist, and may have begun to glimpse the "dead-band" condition: Arrows from the ICE to the wheels, from ICE to electric motor, and from the electric motor to the wheels, but no arrows to or from the battery. This state is indeed difficult to attain and maintain. When achieved, very little throttle movement yields blinking yellow arrows or flickering yellow arrows alternately pointing to and from the battery. Under these conditions, my acceleration from about 30 mph to 41 takes only about 5-6 sec on the flat, while I can usually glide about 25 sec as speed drops to about 30 mph. In these P&G attempts with the more brisk acceleration, I calculated that I was getting mpg in the range of 70-75 mpg, similar to the results I have been getting with the more gentle, ICE only + battery charging, acceleration approach. (I don't put too much stock in the accuracy of today's figures since they are based on a single session, I was doing a lot of experimenting with acceleration rates, and there was a 20 mph wind (head-wind down, tail-wind back.)

    (General info: my SOC stays between 3-7 pips; tire pressure is 42/40 with the OEM Integrities; temperature is usually 65-85 F; my oil level is about 2 cm over the "full" line, thanks to the dealer.)

    My questions are these:

    1. Is "dead-banding" ONLY achievable with acceleration rates sufficient to require power from both the ICE and the electric motor? Or is there a condition I have not yet found where the ICE alone (with no electric assist) sends power to the wheels without charging the battery at the same time?

    2. If the answer to (1) above is "yes," I don't understand why dead-banding would be the most efficient acceleration strategy. I would think that brisk acceleration with electric assist would consume more energy than more gradual acceleration with the ICE only, considering transduction losses going from chemical energy (gasoline) to electrical energy (motor) to kinetic energy (turning wheels).

    a. Perhaps I have answered my own question: slow acceleration with the ICE only always (in my hands so far, at least) also charges the battery, resulting in even greater transduction losses than ICE to motor to wheels.

    b. Concerning my inability so far to see acceleration (even gentle) with ICE only (no electric assist) without simultaneously charging the battery: I would think that when the battery is fully charged (or, more accurately, optimally charged), that the charging system would turn off the charging current and yield a "dead-band" state with only the ICE on. (Understand that I am using the MFD alone to judge current flow, so my observations are qualitative, not quantitative. Perhaps the arrows to the battery that I see with ICE on and no electric assist signals very low current flow, just enough to keep the electronics of the car operating and therefore not enough transduction loss to yield a significant drain on FE. I suppose another factor that influences the optimum acceleration rates is energy efficiency of the ICE at different acceleration rates.

    Further discussion of these issues would be appreciated.

    Hey, I am a geek. I admit it. Perhaps I should spring for one of the system scanners (Can View or such like) and start trying to measure some of these things for myself. Driving a Prius is a hobby, isn't it? Come to think of it, I really don't need another hobby...
     
  2. EricGo

    EricGo New Member

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    Hi rdenney:

    Transduction losses are somewhere around 10 - 15%, so that is a ballpark maximum addtional improvement you can hope for in your acceleration tweaking, compared to too slow acceleration.

    I consider flickering arrows as good as deadband, so you have indeed found the magic spot.
     
  3. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    Don't worry quite so much about it. Whether or not the battery
    charges or discharges is ENTIRELY dependent upon SOC, not what
    your foot is doing. Accelerate however you like, and you'll
    eventually see that if you're at six-bars-nominal, you'll get that
    flickering "undecided" set of arrows if you hold your foot steady
    across a largish range of power requests. You'll also see the
    same bobbling-arrows behavior at steady-state highway travel. This
    is just the system always seeking 60% SOC, and if it's close to
    that then the currents into and out of the battery are miniscule.
    What's more instructive for me is to watch my battery current meter
    bobbling just a little bit high and low of zero. Once the SOC
    drifts away from nominal, I'll start seeing higher currents while
    accelerating.
    .
    The main thing to do is not try to stay in golf-cart mode for too
    long and run the battery way down. Then you've just got to charge
    it again. It turns out that the no-arrows "glide" is not zero
    battery current -- you can actually request about five amps before
    the "battery powering car" arrow lights. I usually try to limit
    myself to 10 amps on glides, which makes them considerably longer
    and less likely to piss off the guy behind me, and still yields
    high mileage. Sometimes the tough part is getting enough running
    room to actually get a good "burn" out of the engine without having
    to back off and either let it loaf or use more battery; that's all
    dependent on traffic and a larger following distance will help even
    that out more than anything else.
    .
    _H*
     
  4. tripp

    tripp Which it's a 'ybrid, ain't it?

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    get a CAN-View. From your post it sounds like you'd enjoy it. Just don't forget to occasinally look at the road.

    I've actually found dead banding to be more easily attainable now that I've got almost 5k mi on my car. I don't worry about it too much. I try to get up to speed fairly quickly and then start P&G or just really efficient cruising. As long as I'm over 50 MPG I'm happy. I'm in the Denver Metro area. Not exactly flat, though the down area has some spectacular areas for high MPG. I just don't get down that way much.
     
  5. jpeachman

    jpeachman Junior Member

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    Sadly, CAN-View isn't available for '06s, and there's no ETA :( . I did get a ScanGauge as a poor-man's substitute, though. Not really the same thing, but it does unlock a few secrets kept by the normal MFD. OP, you might want to consider it if you want more info than you're getting now.
     
  6. tripp

    tripp Which it's a 'ybrid, ain't it?

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    Bloody hell. My mistake. I had forgotten about that. Sorry for the taunt. I'm sure that Norm will have something out soon.
     
  7. rdenneyutmb

    rdenneyutmb New Member

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    Thanks to all (Tripp, Hobbit, EricGo and JPeachman) for the helpful comments. I understand better what the issues are and see that fine tweaking requires more sensitive instrumentation (such as the not-yet-available Can View for '06). I will continue experimenting.

    Have a great day.
     
  8. rdenneyutmb

    rdenneyutmb New Member

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    I assume that this current measurement comes from Can View? Can I infer from your comment that when you achieve the no-arrow glide, small changes in the throttle pressure cause continuous increases or decreases in the amperage drain from the battery drain and that the yellow discharge arrows appear on the MFD when the discharge rate reaches 5 amps? So, your more robust (traffic-friendly?) "glides" are not in the "arrows-off" condition, but instead in the "power from battery" (yellow arrows from battery) mode. What amperage drain from the battery is the threshhold that triggers the ICE to come on?

    Thanks again for the helpful information.
     
  9. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    That's my experience and observation. However I notice that 6-6.5 amps is the most common drain in a no arrow glide...I haven't figured out the exact threshold for when the yellow arrows appear but I think it's probably at 10 amps.

    For those interested, -50amps seems to be the threshold for the ICE to come on if you've been in stealth (assuming normal range SOC) and -100amps is the threshold for EV mode to cut out...but I've seen it as high as -130amps before ICE kick in.
     
  10. EricGo

    EricGo New Member

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    My daily experiece does not jive with this statement. Now admittedly, the SOC has a lot to say in how the Prius will generate and split energy at any set petrol pedal condition, but the converse is true also.

    Daily, as part of deadbanding, I enter into the yellow arrow zone on purpose, and then back off the pedal a bit to deadband. If I back off too much, green arrows appear. This is all quite within my control.

    A related question comes to mind, however: Are there any road/SOC combination condtions when a deadband (+/-) state would mean an inefficient engine load ? Since that is the underlying bottom line goal to our driving techniques -- if the ICE is on, run it as close to 38% efficiency as possible. Minimizing transduction losses is laudable, but FE would likely not improve if one had to pay in lesser ICE efficiency to do it.
     
  11. pjconner

    pjconner New Member

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    As a newbie, you guys just went way over my head.

    I just hope I don't have to get behind you at a light... 0 to 30-40 in 12 seconds? Wow, that is slow!
     
  12. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    My measurements come from analog gauges, and are thus slightly
    rougher than what you might get from a CAN-view. You can see all
    my mods documentation by starting at
    http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/#prius
    and looking at the battery current meter, ECT display, injection
    monitor, etc. I've also added a generic tach and vacuum gauge.
    The tach and the battery-current are the best "realtime" feedback
    I have from which I make all these statements, and note that this
    stuff *will* work in an '06 if you're willing to dig around in your
    wiring harness a little.
    .
    What I should maybe do is add a section on how exactly to jack these
    things in, for the benefit of people without the service manuals,
    but making it too "cookbook" possibly introduces too much likelihood
    of error/confusion when something doesn't work for someone else.
    .
    To answer one of the other questions, the battery current limit at
    which the ICE is started also varies by SOC. At nominal, the
    threshold is about 50 amps [10 kW]. At low SOC, the engine comes
    on at the lightest accelerator touch. At high SOC, you can do about
    80 amps for a while, but of course that doesn't last long.
    .
    _H*