Changing oil in a Prius sucks

I wouldn't attempt it without ramps and a garage, best of luck to you. For your own peace of mind, just pay the idiot dealer and hope for the best, and a coupon.

 

I don't think you can blame Toyota. Who makes a modern car that you can oil change without ramps/jackstands anyway?

 

ya, i think you have to be doing it on a regular basis to have all the tools and techniques down pat.

 

Although I agree with some of your points, you're overall issue is you don't have the right tools for the job and are blaming the patient.

BTW, you can get Mobil One at walmart for about $25 for a 5 qt. jug so around the 5-6th oil change it will be "free".

 

I haven't yet tried changing oil on my '14 Forester, so can't speak to how accessible the drain plug is.

But the oil filter is location is wonderful -- just open the hood, and it is top, front, and center, with nothing to obstruct access.

 

Just have to change it every 10,000 miles. The Toyota dealer is doing mine.

 

why did toyota go to the canister, instead of the spin off?

 

There's no rule that it has to be so difficult. Even if we grant them the need for shielding under the engine for aerodynamic reasons, there are less awkward ways of making part of a shield removeable for service.

 

Well, my take is it's $40 every 10,000 miles vs $5 every 3,000 miles. However, the oil and filter now approach $20 and even an oil change at Walmart is over $30. And, yes, I know you can save by buying in bulk and not all cars need the oil changed at 3,000 miles anymore, but they did on my last vehicle, so that's what I compare current prices to. Even with a $14.95 coupon, taxes and shop fees bring the price of the "special" to $20 or so. Either way, that's $60 for me to do it or have it done on the cheap 3 times in 10,000 miles or $80 for them to do it once without the need for me to have ramps, the special filter tool, rags and the (minimal) hassle of disposal. Yes, I take the chance they will not do it right, but I have vertigo problems, so I can no longer do it if I wanted to. Still, the Prius would actually save me $10 over my previous vehicle and I got 4 years of maintenance as part of my deal, so I can't complain given my situation.

 

It's called RoHS. It started in Europe, went to Asia, and is NOW in the US.

Too much oil and was retained in the metal canister and went to the land fills.

Most filter elements have no metal and no oil retention valve.

The oil retention valves were too "iffy," so the OEM's went to the canister with their own certified design.

When the engine designers switched back to timing chains, instead of belts, the "retention" valve and filter again became very important to the life of the engine.

Timing chains need to be continuously lubricated, even at time of engine startup. Any starvation will cause excess wear on the nylon or polyoxymethyline Delrin guides.

That's why the oil retention valve that prevents drain back to the crankcase at startup is so important.

The orifice that feeds the timing chain guide lubricator is very small and must be kept clear. Any clogging from a bad oil filter or the lac of frequent oil change will result in wear and premature failure.

Those who claim that frequent oil changes are NOT necessary and a waste of money are very ill informed.

 

I think the ONE real impediment you have is the overtorqued oil filter housing. Everything else, you should be able to manage.

 

A Fumoto engine oil drain valve makes things go faster. Install it once and forget about replacing the oil plug gasket or torqueing it.

 

thanks mike, is the oil retention valve still necessary with synthetic oil?

 

Expensive, but this is the ONE that I use.

Toyota - OIL FILTER WRENCH Part Number: 09228-06500-02

It is designed to release the clips, and it is the one that I see the mechanics have and use in my dealer's Service Department.

It is worth the price, if you change your own oil and do it often.

If you read my earlier post, that's also the reason why I use OER filters and have an addition OEM cartridge housing on hand. Break it, and you're screwed until you can get another.

While others said that have has success with aftermarket housings, I'd pay a little extra and get the OER one, on account of the valve that I mentioned.

You're welcome Bisco.

Yes, the valve is absolutely necessary.

As insurance I use a small amount of LiquiMoly that is retained on the parts and clings to the internal engine parts.

 

cheaper:
Aluminum Oil Filter Cup Wrench 64 5mm 14 Flute Fits Toyota Lexus 6 8 Cyl USA | eBay

 

Yes, maybe cheaper, but the Toyota one will last almost forever for my occasional use, unless I lose it or leave it outside to rust.

 

Any decent oil filter socket with 64 mm inside face-to-face and 14 faces will do. There's no need for it to extend further, into the intermittent stiffeners on the Prius oil filter housing. And the clip is a joke: it should in no way hang you up, it stops nothing.

If you want to keep the engine underpanel in one piece, I'd suggest to take the whole thing off, not just open the flap.

 

Remember that if you change it yourself then that (over tightened filter canister) will be one less problem that you have next time.