Change my wheel bearing, now hard braking causes a jolt and traction control light

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Gino Veltri, May 14, 2023.

  1. Gino Veltri

    Gino Veltri Member

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    Changed both wheel bearings. Didn’t notice this before but now if I slam on the brakes it jolts toward the end of the breaking and the traction light comes on as if I’m skidding out. I didn’t tighten anything to spec and had to beat the hell out of the rotar on the driver side to get it off (dinged it up a bit) I left the dust covers off and admittedly had little understanding of how the pads fit in until I did both sides. Also the tpms light is still on (flashing at start, probably goes steady after a while) which I attributed to the back passenger tire being clearly different than the others. What would cause this jolt/traction control light effect? And how the hell do the tpms sensors work ? Am I correct in assuming they are inside the tire? If so where do the plug in to the car? Thanks in advance for y’all’s help, as always.
    Ps : I do believe the pressure is fine in all tires but I’ll double check right meow
     
    #1 Gino Veltri, May 14, 2023
  2. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    You need matching size tires on all four corners, otherwise the wheel speed sensors will always be lying to the car about whether it is in a skid or not. Then when you stomp the brakes the car will be seriously confused.

    Different brand and style is okay, just as long as the size is an exact match.

    You may still have a fitment problem with your pads, probably worth a re-check.

    The TPMS sensors are part of the valve stem on the inside of the wheel. They are radio-based. They have little coin batteries in them, and they periodically transmit a message with their ID number and pressure info. If the car has been pre-programmed with the IDs of those sensors, then it'll care about them. Otherwise it will assume that the batteries have died and go into constant warning state like you're seeing.

    Since you probably changed a wheel from the crash, the car is probably complaining that one tire seems permanently flat since it isn't in radio range anymore.
     
    #2 Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, May 15, 2023
  3. Gino Veltri

    Gino Veltri Member

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    This Prius was not in the crash. The back tire is the exact same size just clearly not a Prius tire so the tea PMS is probably explain by a dead battery. But now I’ve got VSCABS two!’s and even the parking brake light was on earlier, after changing the wheel bearings. This seems to be a common problem with people changing their wheelbearings, but no real solution I found so far.
     
    #3 Gino Veltri, May 15, 2023
  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    No such thing as a Prius tire.

    Gino if you don't understand the simple concept of a TPMS and then not even googling it maybe you shouldn't be tearing into the car.
    TPMS issues are meaningless to this repair.

    You probably stepped on the brakes when the rotors were off or worse busted or misaligned the ABS speed sensors and now the ABS is pissed off. Not a good place to be knowing as little as you do.

    Very harsh but very true.
     
    #4 edthefox5, May 15, 2023
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  5. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    If all the tires are the correct size, then:

    1) the damaged rotors are affecting smooth brake operation too much

    2) you may have damaged one of the toothed rings on the front axle outer CV joints

    3) you may have damaged one of the front wheel speed sensors - or don't have it mounted properly. (a little corrosion build up under the sensor mount will mess things up).

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #5 mr_guy_mann, May 15, 2023
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  6. Gino Veltri

    Gino Veltri Member

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    I’ve already stated the Tpms is unrelated and did you know old cars don’t have any tpms? Of course you did, you know everything.. No I didn’t step on the brakes with the calipers off. No I didn’t damage the abs, and realigned it as close to the same as it was when I took it off. No none of your derogatory assumptions are correct. Jesus christ, all I said is one tire doesn’t match. Maybe knowing as little as you do qualifies you to talk down to someone else but kindly **** off if you’ve got nothing useful to say
     
    #6 Gino Veltri, May 16, 2023
    Last edited: May 16, 2023
  7. Gino Veltri

    Gino Veltri Member

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    Condescending comments aside, thanks for one line of useful advice about abs. Now mr superiority complex can get back to talking shit to people who want to learn something new from behind the safety of his keyboard… prick
     
    #7 Gino Veltri, May 16, 2023
    Last edited: May 16, 2023
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    This might be a good place to mention that the repair manual should include a "sensor check" or "signal check" mode for the braking system. (I don't have a Gen 2 manual in front of me at the moment, but Gen 1 definitely had one and so does Gen 3, so I'd be surprised if Gen 2 didn't.)

    When you activate the signal check mode, the system goes extra sensitive for all of the sensors it uses, and reports errors if anything is the tiniest bit out of whack. When I changed the bearings on my Gen 1, the last step of bearing replacement in the manual was to drive in the check mode and make sure everything passed.

    There might be a lot fewer "I replaced my wheel bearing, and now this happens" posts here if more people did that.
     
    #8 ChapmanF, May 16, 2023
  9. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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    Remember you snapping the bolt for the abs sensor, is the abs sensor secured properly to the hub?
     
    #9 alftoy, May 16, 2023
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  10. Gino Veltri

    Gino Veltri Member

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    Yes extracted bolt replaced. The little window is not dead center on the ring but I noted it was not when I took it off. Made paint lines to match it up. But it sounds like that abs sensor is everybody’s go to explanation so maybe I damaged it?

    I noticed the tips of both look like broken off material ( but all images of brand new sensors appear this way) also they are magnetic and collect metal shavings…looking for any explanation here
     
    #10 Gino Veltri, May 17, 2023
  11. Gino Veltri

    Gino Veltri Member

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    brilliant, this is very likely true. When you say manual do you mean the factory service repair manuals? Either way, how does one enter this sensor check mode?

    do you have any knowledge as to the exact procedure for blink codes? If you orient yourself upside down do pins 1,2,& 3 appear to be blank slots? I don’t recall all the lights flashing in a synchronized pattern and the mfd going into vehicle signal check mode; but this is what happened when I tried to jump 4 & 13. Perhaps I was mistaken in which pins were which because I got no blink codes just reset the lights. And they return within a few hours or maybe at a target speed…..on an unrelated note I hate the 2008s mfd simply because it’s foriegn to me. I didn’t know they were different. Now I actually have to read what buttons I’m pushing. And I don’t read real gewd
     
    #11 Gino Veltri, May 17, 2023
  12. Gino Veltri

    Gino Veltri Member

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    oh answered my own question. So vehicles signal safety check mode is the mode you’re talking about? I know how to get there, no idea how to use it for anything other than checking the 12 volts voltage
     
    #12 Gino Veltri, May 17, 2023
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Yes, the repair manual. Here's a page that explains many different ways of getting it:

    Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

    As you have a Gen 2, you enter the sensor check mode by doing whatever the Gen 2 repair manual says for how to enter it. If I had a Gen 2 manual in front of me right now I might copy/paste it for you. Maybe somebody else will.

    No, here you're thinking of the "vehicle signal check" screen on the MFD. I'm talking about a signal check mode described in the front of the ABS section of the manual, for the brake system.
     
    #13 ChapmanF, May 17, 2023
  14. MCCOHENS

    MCCOHENS Member

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    After you check the ABS sensors if they are OK look at the rotors. If the braking surface is dented replace them.
    The rotors have 2 small tapped holes, inserting a bolt into them and tightening will slowly push the rotor off the hub. You may need new bolts for left and right side, the removal process sometimes mushrooms the bolt a bit rendering it useless. When the rotor is off it helps to wire brush the rust and crud off the mating surfaces. And consider getting new dust shields and installing them. They also keep water off the rotors which can make a big difference in initial wet weather stops.
    Then look at the wheel bearings, make sure they are properly seated and tightened.
    One more thing, you may not like this but need to hear it. Proper torque or at least close is a good idea. Getting the numbers is pretty easy via the web, and a basic torque wrench is under 20 bucks. After 50 years of playing with nuts and bolts I know the difference between 15 and 50 foot pounds, but still use my old torque wrench to make sure.
     
    #14 MCCOHENS, May 18, 2023
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