Center Console Wiring

That would be for the room oscillator for SKS. The red wire is NOT switched. It is fused to the dome fuse. The green wire excites the oscillator to poll for the fob, which in turn answers to the wireless receiver.

The power outlet would be a gray wire.

 

The Oscillator issues a 137.5kHz signal if I remember right DanMan.

I tried using the oscillator's "Always Powered Red Wire" to power the center console's power outlet, to make it hot all the time, but two unintended actions happened:

1. The audio system stayed on after the power button was pushed OFF (which was great!)
2. The SKS system didn't work (which wasn't great!)

and the #3 thing that happened when I jumpered across the red wire of the oscilllator to the grey of the center console power outlet was:

I couldn't power up the vehicle. Oopsie! Unhook and retry.

SO, in conclusion, I disconnected the jumper between the Osc. and the Power Outlet and I ran a separate power wire from the front power outlet (I bought Coastetech's Power Mod Kit - hey, where's the kit for the center console Power Mod???) disconnect the plug from the center console's power outlet at the back of the console, near the oscillator, and jumper it with the extended hot lead from the front power outlet and run a separate ground, probably use a self-tapping sheet metal screw and screw the new ground wire to the metal frame at the bottom-back of the center console (under the oscillator module). Any thoughts about trouble I might be creating for myself.

I only intend on using the center console for charging my teeny tiny Sanyo cell phone - I'm running 16ga wire from the front power outlet under the hump carpet to the center console power outlet.

Coastal's info says that once the mod is complete, one can 'charge the battery with a low current charger'. I imagine they mean the ICE battery, not the EV battery, do I understand this correctly?

Thanks Mista Dan!

Ken

 

As I replied to your PM, you basically force-fed the ACC turn on power when you jumped the B+ to ACC. A similar situation can occur when you try to recharge a booster battery through the outlet. When you power off, the car battery no longer provides power to the outlet, but instead the booster provides power back through the outlet to the ACC line, thus leaving all ACC activated devices on.

The dash outlet is powered through a relay which in turn is energized by the console outlet power, which is switched directly by the power ECU. Coastal's mod simply jumpers the relay contacts that control the dash outlet, so it is still protected by its dedicated 15A fuse.
The console outlet on the other hand is fed from a 25A fuse through a dedicated 15A fuse. A 7.5A fuse connected to the 25A fuse feeds the rest of the ACC accessories. The 25A fuse power is switched by a relay energized by the power ECU in ACC mode or higher. If you could reroute the 15A fuse power source in the driver J/B, then you would have full time 12V for the outlet. However, you also will have a parasitic drain from the relay for the dash outlet. If you also have the dash mod, then you could pull the relay.

 

I recently had the center console out and noticed a capped unused plug just aft of the Yaw gyro for the ABS system, does anybody know anything about this one?

 

I just took my center console apart for cleaning, if you pop the rear fold down cup holders off you will have very easy access to the plugs for the sensor and audio jack etc. just grab the rear cup holders and pull back. Wires are very hard to unplug from the front yet very easy after cup holder removal.