BT Skid Plate installed--summary

I intend to post photos (edit: photos posted here)and a detailed write up later, but I haven't eaten today and am not in the mood to futz with it since I still have to work today. I do want to hit a few highlights for those looking to do their install.

Total time, with photos and a short break when I got confused = 3 hours. You WILL get dirty!!

1) Install instructions: They're fairly accurate, but a bit confusing and could use more diagrams and detailed explaination of how to do each step. I hope to cover that in my next write up. You can figure your way through with what's included though.

2) I didn't realize the firewall of the wheel wells were removed. There are basicaly 2 large undercarriage pieces that extend into the wheel wells that are removed. They are held in place by a variety of means, some gray 6mm bolts with built-in washers, some black screws/bolts with loose washers, some simple retaining pins that are easy to remove by popping up the center with a screw driver.
Unfortunately there are some VERY difficult to remove retaining pins (plastic) at the upper plastic in the wheel wells. I could not get those off with the screw driver and ultimately had to use some side-cut wire cutters to snip them off...and they must come off as you need to put a bolt clip on the spot later.

3) The diagrams in the instructions imply that the bolt clips go ON the skid plate parts...this is not accurate. The bolt clips go onto the car at the points indicated...even then the locations on the diagram aren't quite right. They are actually needed at the back (rear of vehicle) 2 holes of the upright supports and the outside most holes at the front of the main part of the plate. The front hole of the upright support you use one of the OEM bolts and the OEM yellow retaining clip.

4) Brian said there would be 6-8mm clearance at all points once the plate was installed. It isn't for me. There's an engine mount in the center of the vehicle that clearly rubs the plate. Also, I have a Fumoto valve for oil changes...the oval hole doesn't line up well to access that valve and acutually rubs the valve a bit. I'll see how it goes, but I may need to open that hole more, remove the Fumoto valve, or both at my next oil change. We'll see.

5) There's a nose piece that bolts on right under the grill..unfortunately there's still about a 6" gap b/w the nose piece and the main body of the skid plate. I don't think that'll be an aerodynamic issue, but I'm concerned that it's going to somewhat negate the benefit of grill blocking by allowing cold air to enter the engine compartment. I may try to rig some sort of way to block off that large gap at some point.


Thing to check....
When I pulled the car of the ramps the engine noise seemed to be a bit more noticable/amplified than I remember. Now, the garage was quite, there was no XM reception so I didn't have my usual radio noise, etc. But I wonder if maybe the plastic absorbed some of the sound and the open underside allowed the noise to go away from the car where the metal reflects it back a bit and maybe reverberates a bit helping to amplify the sound. Again, I'm not sure this is real but it's something I'll be paying attention to.

I appreciate Brian returning my call. I was confused by the instructions and actually drilled an unnecessary new hole in the upright support because I thought the clip was supposed to fit on it. But that was an error on my part and if one puts the clips on the body as you're supposed to the holes line up perfectly.

 

I spoke with Brian and he made some suggestions to try to get some clearance...I'll probably work on that either tomorrow before work or next Tuesday (my next day off). I only plan to drive my usual commute in the near future, but I'll let you know how it behaves at highway speeds.

Brian also said he'd be willing to look into an extended nose piece that would cover more or all of the gap b/w the nose piece and skid plate. I just need to get him some measurements.

 

Here's a Link to all the photos I took including the misplaced clips and unnecessary new hole I drilled.

 

One thing I should have added is that this would be much easier with 2 people...I was, at one point, supporting the skid plate with my head while I tried to line up the holes for the bolts in the wheel well. It would also help if one person was left handed or you remove the wheels for better access.

Driving to work this evening convinced me that I definately hear the engine sounds more. In a way it's nice as I could really tell the RPMs better and could tell when idling or gliding quite easily. I may consider sliding something b/w the ICE and the plate to baffle it if I can find something that won't catch fire.

 

I considered that possibility too.

 

Just finished reordering and editing the photos a little with some added arrows showing where the various screws and bolts go and such.
BT Tech Prius Skid Plate - a photoset on Flickr

 

Well, yea, that would probably work...but I don't see myeself doing a cobble-together project like that.

 

I do not have a drill press, I've drilled metal a little, but that's not what concerns me really. It's more a matter of getting the pieces together without rubbing/interfering with anything else and making it work consistantly and reliably. I don't really like the idea of a mechanical cable that I'd have to run through the fire wall and then have this goofy cable inside the cabin that I'd have to secure somewhere.
Don't be offended. I like the idea in concept, it's just not something I can see myself trying to do.
Finding a way to permanantly fill that gap is more than adequate for me.

 

3 hours

 

Another update:
I crawled back under the car today to see about making some room where the plate contacted the engine support thingy. I loosened the 4 bolts as you'd suggested and literally hung my entire body weight on the plate. While the middle flexed down while I had my weight on there I could note no shift of the upright supports and and as soon as I would release the weight on the plate it went right back in contact.

Ultimately what I did was 2 things.
1) I used some good old pipe insulation and wedged that b/w the plate and the engine mount thing. At least there's no metal to metal contact now. that also helped create a little additional space b/w the plate and the rest of the engine space structures.

2) I don't know if I mentioned my Fumoto valve and the contact b/w the plate and the valve. What I did was use 3 of the extra washers I had and placed them between the back most part of the skid plate and passenger side upright support. IOW, I removed the back right- most bolt, slid 3 washers in the gap b/w the plate and the upright support, put the bolt back through the plate, the 3 washers then the upright support hole and then resecured. This made just enough gap that I should be able to access the fumoto valve and the plate no longer contacts the valve.

Hopefully this'll make a difference with the noise as well...I found a couple spots that were rattling too and adjusted those while I was down there too.