Brake fluid flush procedure?

Here's a post which may get you a little further:
My Prius five | PriusChat

 

You may like this...
priuschat.com/attachments/brake-fluid-chg-bld-1-pdf.49468/

& it seems OKC has gas at <$2.00/gal - last night I checked gasbuddy & found two places there - $1.989 & $1.999 per gal - happy motoring!

 

ChadInOKC - You might want to update your Profile Page to reflect your current 2010

 

WOW that is cool I got gas under $3 first time in this car (since Nov 2012) on Wednesday !!!

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCcQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpriuschat.com%2Fattachments%2Fprius-brake-bleed-pdf.42665%2F&ei=GhKCVKbnDoTuiALGy4CwDg&usg=AFQjCNHkMy2Wlx_IFUMkHHdKO1xmEwRa7w&sig2=Lh-qc8Fsj1dGhYnvKWTt5w&bvm=bv.81177339,d.cGE&cad=rja

Heres a PDF on how to bleed the brakes from the caliper, with and without techstream. I saw gas as low as $1.99 on the on cue stations in OKC, the lines are outrageous it almost like black friday all over again but in a gas station.

 

The brake fluid is hardly used at 110,000. Buy brake fluid ph strips and they will agree with me. If you must service the brake fluid just suck out the reservoir and put in fresh fluid every 6 months or so.

Pay more attention to the trans fluid you'll have a much better return on your time.

 

Brake fluid dose not circulate it stays in the brake caliper and and the fluid just gets lower and lower as the brake pad diminish, only time the fluid gets returned to the reservoir if you change the pads, so chances are that PH test strip isnt going to do any good in indicating, and besides all brake fluids are hygroscopic they absorb water like a dry sponge in the environment, even its capped moisture will somehow get into that reservoir.

 

Conversely if any portion of the brake fluid is going to get hygroscopic its going to happen at the reservoir.

 

Well everybody is entitled to their own opinion, no matter what facts (or lack of) are involved in reaching that conclusion.

Replacing ONLY the brake fluid in the reservoir does little or nothing to what is down the lines near the wheels......because it is a pressure operated system and almost no actual fluid movement, out and back, really occurs.
OTOH, no extra "flushing" is needed because the "normal" procedure for replacing the fluid automatically does a pretty good flush in the process.

As for the transmission, IF the recommendation on time and mileage is the same for it and the brake fluid.......
Bottom line is: Do what ever makes YOU feel comfortable.
Do not pay extra at a shop for "flushing" anything unless there is some real evidence that it is needed......like a lot of "crap" floating around in the coolant.

 

This is one instance where I resist the siren call of DIY, take it to the dealership.

 

I don't see why a vacuum bleeder won't work without going through the Toyota procedure.

Just remove most of the fluid in the reservoir, fill it with new fluid, crack the bleed screw on each caliper, and draw the fluid through the system. You're done.

This only works, if you don't have any air in the system and there are no current faults.

 

If there is a good reason that won't work, it probably has something to do with the ABS and the pumps and valves involved with that.
I do NOT think that trying to service your own brakes when ABS is involved is a good idea for most owners.

 

Yes its difficult as noted by so many posters reporting failure and a power bleed will not work as Easy states because of the many valves involved. Techstream is needed to turn the metering valves on. You can force on the relays by jumping them out but thats beyond the scope of this discussion.

My point is if your chasing hygroscopic really the only place thats exposed to atmosphere is the reservoir and hardly exposed at that. At 110,000 miles there's not alot of use of the fluid. But knock yourself out.