Brake booster/accumulator compatibility?

In the generation 3 you have two parts that play the game for the brakes in this setup generally it's advised recommended Toyota won't do it but this way I don't think and that is to replace both pieces bleed the system with tech and let it rip so you going to have about 1,400 in the two parts they're about seven and some change a piece if you buy them online have them sent to the store of your choice etc I don't know about remanufactured refurbished for these two pieces not sure about that It's relatively intensive labor so you'd want to get and pay for it only one time put on one piece and then find the other goes bad immediately etc.

 

No that's not what they are called If you look on the brake parts breakdown online at your local Toyota dealers online ordering you'll see the two pieces they show pictures of them there bigger things Chapman will be along in a second to tell you exactly what the name of them are they are here in the text and all of the discussions about this for the generation 3 I just can't remember the names of the two pieces but they're only two and they're the expensive pieces about 720 bucks a pop and they're the only two on your car involving the brakes the Toyota dealer will know without a doubt what you're talking about and you can get the exact part names from them if you like. I will never remember the names of the two pieces but it's posted here about once a week.

 

“P/N Quantity Price Each Description
4705047140 1 $ 581.78 Brake Master Cylinder”

This is from the dealer invoice when I bought the part for my 2010. There are two parts that work in tandem. The brake master cylinder is the brains and the brake booster accumulator pump is the brawn( P/N 4707047060) .

if you don’t have techstream or a scantool with hybrid brake bleeding capability do not diy this repair.

 

Oh yeah. Only buy a new oem brake master cylinder. If you buy a used one you gotta figure out if it was manufactured after Toyota figured out the part had an issue. Figuring that out requires looking at serial numbers. There’s a thread about that. Search for it.

 

Info from Toyota here:

2010 Brake Booster recall info - Google Drive

 

No, it's not. You've got these two things there:



The one on top is the booster AND the master cylinder AND the actuator AND the ECU.

The one on the bottom is the booster pump AND the accumulator.

It always throws people that there is a booster and there is a booster pump, and those are different things.

(It's even weirder in Gen 2, which doesn't have a booster, but still has a pump, and booster pump is still what it's called.)

 

Toyota has different names depending where you look. One has “pump” in the name, one does not and is usually called the Brake Booster Assy or Master Cylinder as described above.

The critical thing is getting the right Brake Booster Assy/Master Cylinder because it has a network connected ecu in it with different versions even in the same year. So a used part could be broke or the wrong part, even if the housing numbers are the same. New parts are ordered against your vin for accuracy.

Hybrid Pit in Socal now advertises a $550 rebuild if you ship your Brake Booster Assy/Master Cylinder to them and wait for it to be reconditioned and shipped back. Many just pay a few hundred more for a new one.

 

There’s something in the Toyota doc’s I linked, regarding the orientation of a label on the barrel of the Brake Booster Pump Assembly (Accumulator): after fixing something in the design, subsequent built pumps have the label rotated 90 degrees, compared to older design.

Seems a funky way to identify the change, maybe subject to subterfuge: could unscrupulous seller peel off and rotate label??

 

The bad batch of accumulators only went into some 2010s, so it's probably not super likely to run into those these days. I doubt anybody's going to the trouble to peel and restick labels. I was concerned at one time when it seemed like some of the sketchy ones were just turning up on eBay, in label-unrotated glory.

The metal bellows inside the accumulator can had been made slightly undersize, so they would bang about inside the can in bumpy driving, and develop cracks earlier than expected.

For accumulators built in later model years after that bad batch, I'm not sure the label orientation tells you anything.

 

Yeah I've read something about the label and the silver and black sticker with the part number on it or whatever color it is now can be in a different place for the later model or the upgraded part kind of funny because our 2010 is early 2010 solar roof car 380K so it's like 13 almost 14 years old and the brake lights just came on like I don't know 4 months ago no effect on braking regen or anything. Just the lights on sometimes they go off most of the time they're on. woman driven so you know if there was any problems we would know about it directly now that car's sitting here never being used thank goodness.

 

Can the label be seen with the accumulator installed? My Toyota dealer wants $3992 plus tax to fix my 2010 Prius. Parts are $2258.
I thought that I had to replace the Brake Booster, Boster Pump, Accumulator, Actuator, and Master Cylinder-confusing!
Why must the master cylinder also be replaced?

 

There are two pieces that are going to get replaced You can read in the thing here on this site and they'll show you the two pieces You can see them if you look under your wiper tray and that's that there's an updated parts they changed I don't know what but that's the gist of it I don't know if the what they fixed in the newer parts will make them last any longer but the car will wear out before they need replacing again I'm pretty sure

 

The cylinder is leaking internally. You gotta replace the parts in tandem. You can see the label without removing any parts. Look at the attached photos. My booster pump is used and had an extremely short warranty from a local junkyard. It looks like the correct orientation of the label but who knows.

My mechanic’s apprentice replaced the pump only when the owner of the shop was out of town. The code and issue returned within a month. He told me that he couldn’t source a used master cylinder and that I needed to get a new one. Living on a tight budget, I couldn’t. Drove the car for a year until I replaced the master cylinder.

I bought the master cylinder new from a dealership in Culpeper, Va with a gracious online discount. The shipping to me makes it worth it to order from them and either drive out there (seeing why John Denver wrote country roads) or get it delivered within a week.

A good mechanic is not going to tell you to use a combination of used and new parts but that’s what I did and it’s working fine. I didn’t intend for that scenario.

 

I hear the pump-whine every 13 seconds now, whereas it used to pump-whine only every 17 seconds or way less often than that 4 years ago. Will replacing the master cylinder stop the loss of pressure and cause the pump-whine to not have to run so often ? Or maybe the pump-whine device is where the problem lies, and maybe it needs to be replaced ?

 

When I hear someone say "DO NOT DIY", for me that's like saying siccum to a dog ! I'm gonna TRY ! Maybe I'll try to pre-bleed the beast or something creative. After all, I was a radio engineer in Africa 20 years and in USA for 10, so I've seen a lot of creative solutions at ELWA Monrovia, Liberia, and HCJB Elkhart, Indiana.

 

The 2258 sounds like retail plus I don't know some added charges or something before the install I'm under the assumption these parts are about 12 to $1,400 brand new in the box but I guess how you buy them is important as where you buy them.

 

diy-ing this repair is not going to be recommended by anyone here because of liability. If you can afford it, take your car to a professional. If you can’t, then all i would say is the topic has been discussed so many times on this forum that you could get a lot of tips on how to go about the repair. A Toyota technician knows exactly what to do. Independent mechanic will even miss the keys to completing it properly like in my case.