Blew out a tire and have a question...

Personally - I wouldn't go out of my way - with 10,000k they're fairly close to new. But, if you're concerned, put the new one on the back as the drive axles are at the front, though I would think the rolling circumference would be similar.

While touring (on a VOLVO) and having a blow-out a long way from home, I replaced just one tyre as the others were almost new - but it was a different brand, same size. Worked fine.

If you can match the brand, it would be the most ideal situation, though.

 

I would buy the exact same brand of tire,
with the exact same tread pattern. But that's just me because I'm picky.

And if you don't mind me asking, how does a person drive a Prius at 30 mph 75% of the time? Do you do that purposely, or is there so much traffic you can't go any faster?
(And are you related to a man named Kevin in California? )

Live a little, buddy! Put that Prius in Power Mode! Let 'er rip! High MPG is boring.

 

I had the same thing happen @ 16k. I replaced it with a matching new and it's been fine since (two years and another 20k). Install on rear as best tires should go on back.

 

We had blow out and repalced with same kind of tire (on warranty from TireRack) on rear tires.

 

Why not measure the tread of the others, if it’s an oem tire, it’s easily half way through it’s life, a new set of Michelin defenders would be trouble free for years.

 

I am not an expert on the subject, but I always understood that each axle should have matching tires. If you have different treads on the same axle, I could imagine that each side could behave differently when braking, etc.

(But maybe that is out-of-date information - I started driving when you indicated a stop or turn by sticking your hand out of the window)

 

Yes, that's a good point.

In the olden days of drum brakes where ABS, Brake Assist, ESC and EBD, didn't exist, braking was very much an approximate situation. It depended on the adjustment of each wheel, the tread of the tyre and the skill of the driver.

Oh, and in those days, tyres regularly blew out or wore unevenly due to bad brakes on one wheel, money was scarce [not that it's common now] - and it was common to see a Dunlop on one corner, 2 Goodyears diagonally opposite and a retread for the other and for the spare - which was invariably almost bald. We also had to check pressures at least weekly, and invariably have to pump one or other up, meaning that our tyre pressures were all over the place.

Today, we've got very good tyres in comparison, ABS which (simply put) stops wheels locking under braking, and with EBD as well, distributes the braking forces between each wheel.

In @ssdesigner 's case, the original tyres wouldn't have had appreciable wear. It's be different if the other 3 had done 40k.

Ideally, a replacement of the same brand would be best if available.

 

What were the tires that were on there?

Our son had a sidewall bubble on a snow tire that we replace with at least 10K miles, so some difference in tread depth, something like 8/32 vs 10/32, and it was fine.

It'd be better to check the tread depth with a kosher tread depth gauge. Look what you've pushed me to, lol:



This is just measuring (on screen, and extrapolating) the width of the coin where it crests the tread, very rough, and the stat that the US penny is 3/4" inch diameter.

 

I enjoy it when the autocad comes out.

Always good to see the draftsman in action.

 

Here's a bored, retired draftsman looking for work!

 

Rule of thumb is difference in thread depth greater than 3/32nds of an inch, you should get at least a pair if not a set of tires.

 

Logic is that 3/32" difference in tread depth means 6/32" difference in size of tire diameter if your are using the same brand tires. That means even if you used exactly the same brand, model, size of tire as old one, new tire circumference is 3.14 x 6/32" longer. Any difference greater than that may harm mechanical component of the car and/or affect the safety and comfort of your ride. I am not advocating this to you, that's what I've read somewhere. But if I was in your shoes, I would change a pair rather than just one if the depth difference is greater than 3/32, and keep the one good tire as spare.

 

New tread depth of those is 9.7/32", according to TireRack. For all practical purposes: 10/32". Having a little more fun with the Lincoln penny tread depth gauge:

 

They'll be in high demand after the poop hits the fan, much like the COBOL programmers who made bank to prevent the "Y2K" bug.

 

Everybody's doing 3D modelling and automated drawing output now, I''ve become a dinosaur in 25 years. S'okay.