Auto-Dimming mirror on pre facelift Prius v?

I have Two Prius v's, a 2013 two which I drive heavily for Uber, and a 2017 four that my wife mostly drives to work. Shortly after getting the 2017 four, I complained that the auto-dimming + Homelink Mirror was too heavy. I complained it was a pain to re-adjust the mirror when switching drivers.

I have changed my mind. I am tired of getting blinded. Driver switches don't happen as often now that my daughter is back in school. Also, instead of 14 hours of daylight in the summer, I am experiencing 14 hours of darkness in the winter. And there are those idiots who install those blindingly bright light bars on their cars that I think should be illegal for on-road use.

I recall that @rjparker replied that he installed an auto-dimming + Homelink Mirror on his 2012 Prius v. Anybody care to comment about putting either a Toyota or aftermarket Auto-dimming mirror? How difficult was the retrofit? I know there is switched 5 volt power in the dome light console for the hands free microphone. I would like to wire my dashcam into that at the same time.

 

Thanks. I live in a 100 year old cape cod on a 50 foot wide lot. I am lucky to have a driveway where I live. I don't think I will ever use the Homelink.

If I do install an Auto-dimming Mirror, I would want to get rid of the Dashcam wire at the same time. I want to kill two stones with one bird, so to speak.

I recall seeing a post in some Toyota related forum where someone was trying to power a dashcam with switched power from the dome-light. I recall that the Dome light assembly contains a Switched 5 Volt for the microphone, and an un-switched 12 volt. Dashcams draw a lot of current, so he used the switched 5 volts to power a relay to provide switched 12 volts, and then used a module he bought on alibaba to bring that 12 volts down to a 5 volts, that can support the high current needs of a dashcam. I would use a 12 volt cigarette lighter to USB plug from the dollar store.

I should have bookmarked the post.

 

The flip style has always worked for me, and the "flip" happens to be the exact change in angle between my wife (who is shorter) and myself. I like that it only takes two fingers to perform the flip. At worst, I can adjust the old style mirror with one hand still on the steering wheel. The Auto dimming mirror requires both hands to adjust.

My problem is that people have been retrofitting their cars to have these extremely bright forward facing lights. Even Factory LED headlights are problematic. My Cataract surgery has helped a lot, but the constant change in the size of my pupils means I start seeing halos after 5 hours of night driving.

I Uber in Philadelphia at night a lot, and I find switching back and forth from day to night getting really tedious, and potentially dangerous if I leave the mirror in "Night" mode when I need "Day" mode. Most of the time, I want to drive in "Day" mode, except when followed by someone with extremely bright lights.

BTW: Thanks to @rjparker for the diagrams. Any chance of getting the diagram of the microphone board, so I can find the switched +5volts?

 

Dashcams and radar detectors still use the old "Mini" USB, and not the "Micro" USB for a good reason. Both devices draw a lot of current. That is to say my several year old dashcam consumes more current than can be reliably sourced through a "Micro" connector, so it uses the now obsolete Mini USB. If USB-C had been more popular when VanTrue began making dashcams, they might have used USB-C.

The posting I read (and can't find) expressed concern about burning out the 5V section of the microphone board if used directly. I recall the post had pictures, and they had tack soldered a transistor or something to the 5 volt microphone supply, to connect the 12 volts from the lighting circuit to a 12v to 5v converter module they had purchased on AliBaba. I prefer using a relay, because it offers isolation between the two voltage lines. If I take a really small Cigar lighter to USB supply, and take remove the outer part, I will have the requisite 12 volt to 5 volt converter, and a USB type A female plug. A little solder, and some hot melt glue to pot the whole mess....

I have to figure out how to get the dome light assembly down first. I was not successful yesterday.

 

Another option is the following on Amazon:
(search amazon for Item ID B07G9WTWB9 if the link does not show up below)

This is the kit for wiring in the dashcam to the fusebox, via wires you have to hide yourself.

 

Wow! thanks @rjparker! There is nothing better than pictures to see what you are attempting to pry off.

I am thinking that if I can't fit the 12 volt to 5 volt converter inside, I will run 3 wires down to the back side of the rearview mirror:

- Ground
- Switched low current +5 volt
- Unswitched +12 volt.​

I would make a small box to hide the converter (mounted to the back of the rearview mirror), and have a 12 inch lead with the high current +5 volt run to the dashcam.

I need to find that post. That person worked out the details of using the switched 5 volts to create switched 12 volts, and I believe they were able fit it in their version inside the dome assembly. The relay I was considering was cube about of about 1cm, and can handle 1 amp. It does not draw much current.

 

A little poking around before I go out driving. The moonroof switch compartment is handy, as I can put a rocker switch for dashcam. This would allow me to turn off the dashcam if a passenger requests it.