Alignment specs

The alignment specs that are in the Hunter Winalign software are correct - and match the ones in the factory service manual, IIRC. Preferred setting for total front toe is 0.30. I believe the rear allows up to 0.58, but should ideally be about 1/2 of that.

 

Critic - does the GenIII have adjustable camber and caster also?

 

Try these...

 

Thanks!

 

Thanks a bunch, it was really handy!

 

I am looking for factory alignment specs (not the ones from alignment shops) for the 2nd gen, if someone has them.

Thanks.

 

Thanks for posting! I took my 2010 to an alignment shop, they claimed the rear alignment was off yet there was no factory specifications to fix it and that was it. I was dumbfounded.

 

Okay Wheel alignment is not as simple as doing that.

The Latest Hunter wheel alignment system makes it very easy providing the person doing it follows some simple steps.

The vehicle needs to be fully inspected for any play in any bushes and ball joints on the vehicle. Providing there is no play in any bushes or ball joint only then should you align any car. If play is found you should change the worn component on both sides of the vehicle.

Once this has been done you can proceed to align the car.
The car must be parked on flat ramp and there must be enough room on the ramp to rotate the tyre one full circle ie push the car back and forth and all tyres must be inflated to the correct psi!!!
1/Park the car level and make sure the car steering is centred, this means you must check to see if the cars steering wheel has the same amount of rotation both sides lock to lock. if not you need to correct this.
2/ Once number one has been checked or corrected the wheels must me locked straight and the car wheels rotated one full circle back and forward to equalise the load on every component.
3/ The Hunter wheel alignment system must be fitted correctly and all gauges should be level on the wheel attachment devices.
4/ the vehicle details must be correctly entered into the computer so it can give you the correct measuring tolerances to align the vehicle.
5/ Adjust each wheel accordingly and the vehicle should be ready for a road test.

If you are doing it the old fashioned way for example using Super tracker then its a bit more complicated and you will need to to know factory road camber figures for that vehicle to set the front wheel alignment if not you can "wing it" by adjusting it bit by bit till the car drives straight. Normally if you set it 0.5 degree toe in both sides then adjust the left wheel to another 0.6 to 1.1 toe in left wheel and 05 toe in Right wheel then you will find this is about right (UK Roads). American roads do the opposite. If its not behaving correctly adjust a bit more but within the tolerances.

 

Apologies if this is off topic here.
This Prius Gen 3 factory Rear wheel alignment specs is:
Camber specs : -1°29' +/- 30' (-1.48° +/- 0.50°), i.e mainly in negative camber regimes which are typical and common among almost all other vehicles' specifications that are sedans and on-roads.

However, there is a 1.2L sedan for on-road use with a factory rear camber specs range from +0°15' to +1°15' all within positive camber regimes.

What are the pros and cons, and why?

 

The manufacturer's alignment specifications are relatively moderate and suitable for most people.
It can also be customized according to your personal driving style. For example, your car often takes a few people, how much cargo it loads, do you like intense driving or soft driving, do you often drive on the highway or stop and go in the city. You can customize your personal alignment data according to these requirements.
If you want to reduce driving resistance, you can adjust the toe and tilt angle to close to 0, which can reduce resistance and tire wear.
If you want to have better stability in sharp turns, you can adjust the front and back negative inclination, test whether to push the head or flick to determine the size of the front and rear toes, and properly harden the balance bar settings.
If you think stability is more important than everything, you can use a small negative inclination and a proper positive toe fit.
If you use it to run a lap track, you can also use a positive and a negative inclination angle and toe setting for the left and right wheels according to the direction of rotation.That is to say, the wheel inside the ring has a positive inclination angle, and the wheel outside the ring has a negative inclination angle. Generally speaking, a positive inclination angle matches a positive toe, and a negative inclination angle matches a negative toe.
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Hi all.
Someone dropped a bike in the middle of the interstate. I hit it going about 60 mph. Did about $2,100 in damage.
Anyway, I just got it back from the "in-network" (for insurance) shop. As I was driving away I noticed it veering pretty badly going only 30 mph. I went back and they gave me the specs from the alignment. Basicly seemed they just wanted me out of their face. Anyway, I remembered trying to get my 06 prius aligned to find out one of the back tires was very extensive and expensive to put in alignment, is the 2013 model that way also?
And will these values cause it to veer to the right that badly?
Thanks in advance.

 

If it pulls to one side, there is certainly something wrong.
Have the service manager ride with you and show him what it does.
You can have them swop sides of the front tires. If it goes straight, or pulls the other way,
then you can say it's the tires. But if it was going straight before this, I doubt it's the tires.
Contact your insurance company and let them know.
Do NOT let this go.

 

That report shows that the rear wheel alignment isn't in spec. The thrust angle should be near zero (aka- both rear wheels "averaged" together should point straight ahead). On your car the back wheels effectively point some to the left- so if the steering wheel is straight then the car will want to turn right.

Might be other things going on but I would let your insurance rep know that something is wrong.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

As commented above, this wheel alignment report does suggest veering to the right could occur as you reported.
If I may speculate, there will be undue wear on the front tires, in particular the LF.
The remedy would be a re-do on the Front and/or the Rear axle alignment with use of shims.

 

I appreciate everyone's replies.
I contacted the stealership. They said the back is a fixed axel that yes need shims, just as zeng mentioned. Told me $200 and insurance won't pay for it. I paid $660 for my tires so yeah, no brainer to me.
When I brought back in the "starter" specs were nothing close to the sheet I was given previously (that I posted).
Ended up the guy was being "nice" and charged me $150. I contacted insurance to let them know they shouldn't be paying for that previous alignment.
Tires definitely stay straight now for a while. Steering wheel is a bit down on the left but I done dealing with it for now.

 

If the steering wheel is off center, you can adjust the toe in/out to straighten it out.
Depending how off it is, it shouldn't take much of a turn on the tie rods.

If you look at the tie rod end (nearest the tire/wheel) there is a lock nut against it.
Clean that nut off, the rod, and tie rod end. Take white paint, or crayon, whatever you have,
and put a straight line along the three. Loosen the nut about a half a turn.
On the drivers side, turn the rod about 1/8 of a turn so the rod is pulling the tie rod end toward it.
Snug up the nut.
On the Passenger side, turn the rod so the tie rod end is moving out, the same 1/8 turn. Snug up the nut.

Drive the car around the block and see if the steering wheel is straight. If it's closer, you'll need to turn each
rod a little more. If it's worst, you'll need to turn the rods back where they were, and then go 1/8 of a
turn the opposite direction.

Go slow and take your time. You'll be able to do it.
This will NOT fix the problem if the car is drifting to one side or the other, but it will center the steering wheel.
It's not as simple as pulling the steering wheel and repositioning it because there is a notch on it and
the steering shaft.

 

I wasn't aware that I could adjust the steering wheel in this way. That is good knowledge because the steering wheel has been bothering me.
It isn't drifting, just the wheel not level.
I'm a bit of a perfectionist and my job uses my personal vehicle (said prius). I enjoy taking care of my car.
Just ordered it some laser iridium plugs, tyranny fluid and looking into coils. I know its not super necessary, would just hate to be 20 hours away from home and need something. Miles on my beautiful girl are getting up there, just turned over 160.

I appreciate the time you took to explain this process and I will be using it later.