Air Bleed Failed - Brake Actuator Replacement - Wrong miniVCI?

That's right with the Gen 3 you are stuck with tech stream and the proper cable to make any bleeding happen I do believe I have it literally got out and tried drip bleeding with nothing on starting at the back had to take a day probably if it will even probably attempt it because this car is completely electronic in that way and I don't even know if you've replaced the right part in the gen 3 I have to literally look through all the business I do know that accumulators and a valve will stick in the accumulator will leak down it's common in the Gen 3 these two pieces are separated and many times both pieces get replaced at quite a decent cost where the Gen 2 because of the good design team put the accumulator and the pump on the same rack The master cylinder that's connected to your pedal is another whole part sitting 10 in or better away and it doesn't have the problems the Gen 3's have hence that's why I drive the Gen 2 put the women in the threes. Because you need all this specialized equipment just to make the car work again buying text stream for 2 days will not help you if you don't have a VCI cable that will speak to the vehicle in the way that you need to it's like speaking Spanish to a person from Saudi Arabia basically.

 

I don't have much expertise to offer about comparative Mini-VCI weirdness. I've only ever had one, and I kind of know what its weirdnesses are, and for those things I'll often use the Openport instead. But I do understand that the Mini VCI ecosystem and quality control situation are uniquely messy, so that different Mini VCIs can have whole different weirdnesses.

But just to change the subject a little, how's the charge on your 12 volt battery? The bleed procedure can take a while, and consumes some power (especially in the late part where it cycles the actuator and pump), and the bleed procedure can conk out before completing if the power gets too low.

 

And so all the warning lights are still on the dash car won't start whatever? If you clear the codes they come right back and turn the lights on and the pedal feels soft squishy or not normal? Just wondering

 

I would have kept the second replacement until they asked for it back which they probably wouldn't holy Jesus. I would think even with the wheels off of everything is connected you should be able to sit in the car and do whatever you want your wheels aren't touching the ground you're obviously up on jack stands pretty uneventful The motor might start and you know whatever and I wouldn't think much of it I was just curious if you would have no codes and if you're pedal feels normal that's all if my car was on jack stands and brake lines are connected and pads are in place and rotors are on shouldn't be a problem I'm not going to gun the engine and make the front wheels which are not on or rotors go flying around and around I'd actually be stepping on the brakes mostly to see if my pedal feels like it's supposed to and if my lights are out just because I'd want to see that.

 

I always have kind of suspected that the "air bleeding utility" was just invoking those different active tests in some order, but I have never had the gumption to try to figure out exactly which ones in what order.

 

Well there you go I was meaning before you got back to it with this additional stuff when five paragraphs back or whatever but yeah that's great man You're good to go It looks like that's really good.

 

I had the exact same problem with techstream after replacing the same brake parts recently on my 2013 V. It would get to the stroke simulator part and would make a click noise then give the same error code and I would start over. I purchased my cable from amazon and it too came with techstream version 16.xx. In the end I gave up on techstream and used a Thinkdiag + obdII tool to do the bleeding but will have to play with techstream a bit more now that I know you can manually go to each step

 

Someone with Techstream stalling said they finally got through with an alternate device:

Advice on brake booster/master cylinder replacement | PriusChat

specifically:

Thinkdiag plus scan obdII scan tool

no clue personally, but food for thought.

 

Anybody have the updated actuator part number for gen3 . I thought there was an update to this part and late 11 or 2012 or something for the generation 3 2Z Prius??

 

I just bled mine using an autel
Went smoothly... gotta go all way thru to the linear offset part .. then back to front wheels again...open bleeder valves enough to get a good flow ... kinda spongy pedal till the end...

 

I noticed the part numbers were different on the 2010 donor part compared to 2011 part

Leaking 2011 accumulator part number was
47210-24310



Older working 2010 donor had
number 47210-47140

 

Sometimes we don't emphasize enough that Toyota parts often have numbers that appear on the physical part, and have the same nnnnn-nnnnn form as a part number, but are not the part number.

 

Yea gotta do cross reference and research on just about everything..anymore

 

I got the exact same issue, every time just failed at the stroke simulator step, can’t go further.
Can you please advise what brand and model scanner can finish it?

 

Yeah for folks that don't do car work regularly all the numbers on things can be quite discerning. That's why I usually look up if I need to the Toyota part number to make sure there aren't any updates or there are updates etc and then I'm familiar with the part series part numbering and then I know what I'm looking for on the physical part not all those other numbers.