after clean up fuel injectors, EGR, intake manifold, engine shaking

This is very common on this engine and this model series so you're on the right track going everything you're going over but at the end of the day something's causing an imbalance in the power between the systems which is causing the shake generally it's something seeping through the head gasket it doesn't need to be a flood just seepage will do but usually that clears up pretty quickly and then the rest of your drive can be kind of normal till pressure builds up in the radiator and everything is nice and hot then it can rear its ugly head again because of the pressure. Sometimes relieving the pressure in the Degas bottle all of a sudden will make things clean up again this is generally a sign that the fire in the combustion chamber is being put out by something pressure in the coolant system

 

Are the new spark plugs any good?

There are many bad counterfeits available from Amazon and eBay, so you need to be careful. Always better to get them from a local shop.

 

post a video of the shake, how long it lasts and the ambient temps at the time of the video. What part of CA you from North Midway or South?
Take a look at a gasketmasters youtube and compare your shake to one of theirs.

 

My wild guess would be missed a hose connection on the intake manifold. They are hard to see under there. Double check that you don't have anything that could cause a vacuum leak.

All EGR gaskets were replaced correctly?

You could try simple misfire checks like switching the coils and spark plugs between cylinders, but that seems less likely.

Edit: My bad, by "it was working fine for a few weeks" do you mean after the maintenance?

 

That spark plug packaging looks totally fake to me I don't even recognize the packaging and I've dealt with nippondenso for quite a long time but I don't keep up with their latest packaging schemes as a lot of it seems like they're not changing their packaging schemes to counterfeiters are or something just doesn't seem right to me but I could be very wrong they just don't look correct I would go to the Toyota dealer in this instance and buy four spark plugs and try them in the car and see if that clears up the nonsense If you take the four plugs you just put in let me see pictures of those out of the car and I know it sucks but. These counterfeit plugs start to look like they have 100,000 mi on them in a couple of weeks some of them will fall apart in your engine.

 

Yeah, the important question is "purchased where?".

If counterfeiters used a different brand name or model number, they wouldn't be counterfeiters.

 

The misfire code started after the plug change?

Swap 2 and 4 with 1 and 3, see if the code changes. Also inspect the plugs carefully while they're out.

If the code changes (to 1 and 3) and/or the plugs look beat up, probably they're fakes.

If not, I'd boroscope inspect the combustion chambers, first thing in the morning, after the car was driven the previous day, looking for evidence of coolant leaks.

 

Does anyone recognize the spark plug packaging please?

 

Lotta languages on the box, for a north american plug. Up here it'd be English and French, full stop.

 

Yeah I don't think so my friend I would be wanting to have a look at those real quick like You've been how many thousand miles how many weeks this would peak my interest very quickly. I know I pulled one set that I bought out of my 2013 since the install of the engine and I've checked them twice. But the cheap fakes with not even a month on them look like they were deteriorating very rapidly like they wouldn't make another month or two I might even have them around here I need to pull them out and make pictures I guess

 

Also, some counterfeit plugs will eventually drop a chunk of ceramic or metal into the cylinder. Undesirable.

 

Sometimes the price is enough to tell you. A single genuine SC20HR11 is currently $8.46 at Rock Auto, and about double that at Autozone.

If you've seen a lower price, be very suspicious.

Denso's own statement