3rd gen Prius 2013 breaking & weird ac noise

Well, there are on the order of two hundred reasons those lights can come on, and so far you're thinking of two of them. Like me thinking "COVID!" for my first week of stay-at-home every time I woke up with sinus drip. It is easier on the nerves to just read the trouble codes and find out what the car is telling you. Sometimes it is rather simple. The change in pedal feel when the lights are on can be a result of the car's computer changing the brake behavior because of whatever issue it is telling you about.

Having a tool to read trouble codes from your Prius is very helpful for taking care of the car. You should find lots of threads here about recommended tools. Keep us posted!

What did the 'louder' A/C sound sound like? Not just the blower running harder? It will automatically speed up as the weather warms.

 

Did they give you any warranty? Or was it "as is"?
You should give them a call.
Techstream is good. You can find it on amazon and/or ebay.

Can you find a date code on the 12v battery? If you have a meter you can check the voltage.
If it's more than 5 or 6 years, it may be time for a new one depending on the brand.

As ChapmanF said you can search the threads and find help with the different apps to read the codes.
The codes can point you in the right direction to resolving the problem.
Intermittent problems are a pain.

 

I had a similar experience with the mentioned lights on the panel, and when i went for a diagnosis they narrowed it to EBD neefing replacement

 

So now we know that one of the roughly two hundred reasons for those lights to be on can be EBD needing replacement.

 

Did you check if they had a 30 day warranty?

 

ASRDogMan is on to something with checking the little 12 V battery in the right rear corner of the vehicle. If original it's probably time to replace it. Fan or A/C or HVAC rattling noise, probably some debris in the squirrel cage blower. You'll have to carefully extricate the lower glove box on the passenger side (note the disconnection of opener delay mechanism on the right side) and behind this on the HVAC there is an access panel to the cabin filter (if there is one, I suspect there isn't) which sits right over the blower. Remove the filter (clean or replace) and fish around in the squirrel cage for whatever might be making a noise.

 

Do you have something constantly plugged in the OBD port? That appeared to be the culprit for me, with similar symptoms. Dealership didn't resolve really, said it was a "communications problem". They suggested to remove a scangauge cable I had constantly plugged in, which I did. That was over 5 years back, and the brake malfunction never reoccurred.

 

The battery is new enough, it "should" be okay. But, did you check the voltage?
If it had been sitting at the dealership, and not running, the battery could be weak.
And if you don't drive it long enough, the hybrid battery doesn't put enough charge in it.

 

When you figure this out clean the entire EGR SYSTEM INCLUDING THE INTAKE MANIFOLD! And EGR Cooling System!
Plenty of info on this major problem. And get a Catch Can.

 

Congratulations on becoming a US Citizen!

I am not 100% sure on the battery voltages, the 12.3volts may be a little low.
If you have a battery charger you can put the charger on the battery. No more than 4 amps though.

There are two ways of testing. First thing in the morning after the car has been sitting.
You can climb through the passenger seat and pop the hood and check the voltage at the fuse box.
Then you put a load on the battery, like the head lamps. Just make sure you don't open the drivers door yet.

I'm not certain of the "correct" procedure.
I'm certain someone will step in with the proper voltages. Or you can do a search for them.

Techstream can do a lot. Like turning off that stupid back up beeping inside the car!!!!
First thing I did when I got it!

And your English is fine.

 

Were you testing voltage with the car displays? Try with a digital multimeter, same drill, first thing in the morning, hood popped the night before, at the under-hood jump point.

That'll give you some iffy idea. Better, load test with something like Solar BA9. Or take to an automotive retailer selling batteries; they'll likely have a pro version of such tester, will test for free. Dealership has them also, but will likely be a nominal charge.

 

I had the same symptoms with 3 lights coming on that you mention but no big triangle light in addition and it would go away after few sometime and upon restart, it will operate fine, this only occurred when I drove in city traffic and braking was constant including some hard braking (mine also honking/squawking noises as well, was told by shop about air in the braking system), all the while the brake pump/actuator would be continuously whirring, I took in for oil change and that's when they pulled code C1256 active( but no lights at all in dashboard) and the shop let me know about this and mentioned about an open extended warranty, incidentally I had also received a letter from Toyota when I dug in, a super while back.

With light on, braking would feel horrible, have to literally stomp on it super hard (I mean super hard, felt like our old fiat back in the day )

My car has around 136K Miles, and Toyota covered brake actuator fix.

The brake actuator TSB is good for > 2011 models up until aug 29 2021 OR 150K miles (something like this, you can search for it here)