2017 Prius - P065714 code after jumping battery

might be a fuse, if you can find a wiring diagram. there's a big one under the fuse box on older pri, not sure about prime.

 

did you check the fusible link under the 12v pos. connector?

 

It is dummy proof if you have a modern lithium jump pack. They have reverse polarity detection before applying power. Store in the cabin where it is accessible when the rear hatch won't open because of a discharged 12v

In general the ecus have clamping circuits built in and rarely fail because of this on a Toyota. There are some fusible links that don't look like fuses. Sometimes people pull fuses to look at them and put back them in the wrong spot leaving a circuit unpowered. Finally there are several locations with fuse boxes or fusible links.

 

Occasionally, the inverter gets fried, but it’s rare

 

And used inverters are cheap if it comes to that

 

Have you disconnected the 12 v, charged it, then reconnected it? When modern electronics act up sometimes pulling the plug and resetting fixes them. I know that seems too simple.

 

You need to apply for a job with Toyota.

There are methods to keep this from happening. One is a lithium 12v battery with a built in backup 12v battery. In the $1000s but sometimes used in Ferraris and the like.

If your 12v battery is 0.1v it was seriously injured. A Prius with a good battery, even without an aftermarket system, usually won't Ready after 4 weeks. Most low parasitic draw Prii with age won't go after 3 weeks. If your use case is to leave it unused for weeks a Battery Tender Jr is an option.

Since we were talking dummy proof I did not mention the force jump option on most lithium jump packs. What some don't realize is a dead 12 V battery has to equalize voltage with the jump source before the average voltage of the two is seen by the car. Effectively the jump pack has to charge the dead 12v battery voltage to about 10.5v. People return jump packs for this reason alone.

I did not want to mention reading the manual. Toyota specifically says apply the jump source, energize it and wait five minutes before attempting a start. This is to equalize the voltages. Obviously a giant truck battery or 100 amp jump charger may do it quicker. Sometimes a totally dead battery sucks up the jump current so bad you are better off without the old battery in the circuit. It can be shorted and acting like a heater. Again a smart jump box reduces dangers. Some people get frustrated if it does not Ready immediately and try the opposite polarity.

For me the best option is prevention rather than the cure. You obviously agree. Number one with a bullet: Have the battery load tested yearly after 5-6 years. Low capacity? Change it. Number two for the guy who wants that $185 battery to last ten years: Don't let it sit for more than a week, run parasitic draw tests, fix issues and use a battery maintainer ( low cost staged charger).

The best prevention is a high-quality AGM battery less than five years old or least load test after 5 and replaced by 8. Who wants to be worried about a 12v battery that normally makes 6-8 years without a peep.

Even with the best real time aftermarket voltage monitor beaming at the operator, they do not read battery voltage when the car is running, It reads the charge voltage which will always look good.

If you are a risk taker and like bungee cord jumping, then pushing it 10 years might work. The cord usually breaks at a low level over water. No harm done.

Have plenty of patience and are willing rely on wifi and a remote server? Have no problem adding another parasitic draw to your car's electrical system? Well sir step up front right now! Consider one of these or similar. Cheap and bad reviews but hey...



Personally I ensure the battery is within normal (not Priuschat) lifespans, don't let it sit for weeks (not great for other expensive parts either), know how to perform a parasitic draw test with a $5 meter and carry a $100 lithium jump box.

The last thing I want to do is reverse polarity jump the car. Or watch someone else do it to me as they connect jumper cables.

 

I bought my Prime 2020 two months ago and have a 4 amp Solar brand charger maintainer on it frequently even after two days if the car isn’t used. It takes a significant amount of time to bring it to full charge, hours. I started doing this to my 90’s Toyota truck too which also slowly depletes the 12 v. In an effort to not buy a new battery as often. I measured about 200 ma parasitic loss on the truck with a clamp meter. It has a size 24f battery, larger than a Prius. I guess that’s about 4.8 amp hrs per 24 hours discharge. Have to check it again to make sure drain number is right.

 

i've read about that, but no reviews if it is worthwhile

 

maybe some inside the case? idk