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2015 Prius 2 rear caliper piston won’t retract

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by Brianhigbee72, Jul 12, 2019.

  1. Brianhigbee72

    Brianhigbee72 New Member

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    I’m new to the forum. I’m trying to replace my back rotors and pads but I can’t get the piston to retract. I’ve been spinning and spinning it but it won’t retract enough to slip over the new pads. It’s gone around at least 20 times. Should I keep going? I honestly can’t tell if they’ve retracted at all at this point.
    Any ideas?
    Brian
     
  2. BZzap!

    BZzap! Senior Member

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    Make sure you have it aligned so the pin on the face of the piston is at the 12 o’clock position. That little pin goes into the back of the brake pad. If you try to slip the pads over the rotor without the pin aligned correctly, it will never go on.
     
  3. Johnny Cakes

    Johnny Cakes Senior Member

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    RU saying that you can't get the piston in the brake caliper to retract fully so, with your new pads installed, there's no longer room for the rotor?

    Maybe the brake fluid has absorbed water, expanding its volume, preventing full retraction of the piston. Old pads/worn rotor can cover up an increase in brake fluid volume whereas closer tolerance with new pads/rotors.
     
  4. Brianhigbee72

    Brianhigbee72 New Member

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    Thanks all for the responses.

    I called a friend who’s familiar with VW’s that have a similar screwing piston and he thinks maybe the screw mechanism came out too far because the old pads were thin. He thinks I need pressure and I ordered the “specialized” tool in the meantime. Hopefully it works and I can put some pressure on it.

    Btw I watched 3 videos and 1 unhooked the emergency connection. I didn’t. Could this be an issue?
     
  5. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Welcome to Prius Chat (y).

    Not sure on the 2015, but the 2010 you had to have the dice tool to retract the piston in. Is that what you mean by turning it in?

    How many miles before this brake job?

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
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  6. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Are you using the tool the spins and compresses it? Or are you just spinning it?
    They too, which you can rent from autozone, is threaded so it presses it in as it spins it.
     
  7. Brianhigbee72

    Brianhigbee72 New Member

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    Yeah I was turning it with a pair of pliers which the YouTube videos made look easy I ordered the dice tool and it should be here on Sunday. Not positive I’ll be able to get a better push on the piston with it.

    Any ideas about whether or not disconnecting the emergency cable would make a difference?

    Thanks again.
     
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  8. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I’d wait for the dice and regroup ;).

    The emergency brake shouldn’t matter for setting the pads and calipers(y).
     
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  9. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Do you have an auto parts store near you?
    Autozone, discount, Orielly's? etc. They have tool rental, it won't cost you anything because you get your money back when you return it.
    That tool presses it in as it turns it.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    It sounds like the internal screw mechanism is not engaging properly, for one or more of the reasons mentioned above. Every turn should retract it a little. Just to ask the dumb question: you are screwing it in clockwise?

    Yeah use the proper cube, and maybe you just need to press firmly to get it started, it's not threaded in??

    Also, I'd concur, it's not necessary or helpful to disconnect the parking brake cable (aka emergency brake). I've had the rear brakes open a couple of times, and I just have the parking brake release, and pull the caliper assemble off and away, tie it with some twine.

    Do disconnect the negative cable from the 12 volt battery, whenerver you're doing stuff like this. When you're DIY'ing without Techstream, it's your safety net: it's possible for the hydraulics to start pumping, pop out a piston. Maybe more so with the fronts but who knows.

    Also, the piston should end up with the cross pattern of spokes on it's face oriented like an "X", to fit properly with the stubby pin on the back of the brake pads. And when reassembled, pump the brake pedal multiple times, make sure everything's well seated, tightly locked together in that orientation. It's very important that it goes together thus, and stays like that. Each time you apply the parking brake the piston with attempt to turn, and that pin locked in the cross pattern prevents that from happening. Important: if the pin does manage to ride up on a spoke on the piston face, you will have problems: steady brake drag and uneven pad wear.

    Anyway, here's some brake info from the repair manual:
     

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    #10 Mendel Leisk, Jul 13, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2019
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  11. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    2 years ago I kept reading on here that if the pistons protrudes because you open the driver door while the 12V bat was still connected, you needed techstream to get it to retract back in.
     
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  12. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    I 2nd this, we did this to mine last year at the meet up w/parking brakes will on.
     
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  13. Brianhigbee72

    Brianhigbee72 New Member

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  14. Brianhigbee72

    Brianhigbee72 New Member

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    Yeah I think I’ll take today off Lol.
    I’ll let you know what happens. Fingers crossed.
    Thanks.
     
  15. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Which side is it on?
    One is a left handed thread. Have you tried turning counter-clockwise, and pressing it in?
    It won't hurt to try.
    My kit has both left and right handed threaded rods.
    So I think that is your problem. Try your little square again, but this time go counter-clockwise.
    And press as you turn.
     
    #15 ASRDogman, Jul 13, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2019
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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    My manual only says clockwise, nothing about the sides being different.

    cw.png
     
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  17. Brianhigbee72

    Brianhigbee72 New Member

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    Ok the tool worked! I attached the caliper assembly and pushed and it finally went in. Haven’t gotten around the other side so I’m not sure if it’ll be different. This was the passenger side.
    It’s all back together but it wont start Most of the dash lights are on. Any ideas if I’m supposed to reset something or if it’s something more serious. I only took off the negative cable‍♀️
    Brian
     
  18. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The first time you try to start it after pulling the negative lead, you get all the lights ;).

    Try powering it up a second time and then see if any lights appear. If not, you’re good to go:).

    Glad the dice did the trick(y).
     
  19. Brianhigbee72

    Brianhigbee72 New Member

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    It worked Raytheeagle! You’re a genius!
     
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  20. frank lyons

    frank lyons Junior Member

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    I see someone said the notch in the rear caliper piston had to be in the 12 oclock position is that correct? I am having problems with the rr pads but I have been putting the notch in the 6 oclock position. my prius is 2012.