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2006 Prius-where is A/C 134a pressure sensor switch?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by phoebeisis, Jun 2, 2016.

  1. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Member

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    Where in the engine bay is the freon-134a- pressure sensor switch?
    I think it is on the passenger's side of the engine bay-near the front-
    on the high pressure side
    in a block with the sight glass and the high pressure access valve-
    it has 4 WIRES coming out of it
    Not sure that is it because I thought that sensor/switch was on the low pressure side?
    Thanks
    Charlie
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    For about a month I was in the happy position of being able to illustrate my replies with pics out of techinfo, because I bought my first Gen 3 about a month ago and I went for the $75 one-month subscription for learning as much about it as possible, so in that month I could easily even look things up for other people with other model years.

    But alas, my subscription is used up; I'm sure I'll re-up it someday, but mostly only for answering my own questions (for which the $15 two-day option is usually plenty). I do hope that some of the posts with examples will help people realize what an extremely useful resource it is, though.

    Under the wiring diagram (EWD) tab, you can immediately see what the pressure switch connections are (and which wires are which!) ... while, under the repair manual (RM) tab, you will find the complete correct procedure for recharging your system, if that's what you need to do; if I remember right, hot-wiring the pressure switch was not part of the recommended approach. There will also be a lot of good information on diagnosing the exact issues you're having so you don't waste time on the wrong trail (or being confused by having more than one issue without realizing it).

    Good luck!
    -Chap
     
  3. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Member

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    Chap

    Thanks for your reply
    I have the TIS Toyota info "stuff" site bookmarked
    Unfortunately my old MACS- don't allow the subscription button to "open"
    On the bright side my ancient "not apple"-2005 vintage (whicj is no longer supported OS windows something or other() DOES allow it to open.
    Once I have all my ducks in a row-some AC tools that will allow a repair leak-and perhaps replacement of compressor and several other hard parts that might be "destroyed" by debris from a dead compressor

    Another 2 questions if you don't mind
    1)Could you PRINT or SAVE pages from the online toyota super manual??
    My guess is NO-
    2)What about taking a picture of the screen-I have a camera that takes "good enough" screen pictures-legible enough-any reason to think that Toyota uses so method to make pictures "hard" to take?

    And yes I am going to attempt to JUMP on the compressor-already have jumped that pressure switch-what I suspect is the condenser cooling fan came on-compressor didn't-but I probably didn't jump the "right" female connections-
    My reasons is to try to pump up system-to help find the leak-
    and to get "some idea" if the compressor is broken or not-
    if it is broken-it makes little sense to "just replace" the 11 year old perhaps 5000 HOURS of use-compressor
    I will plan to replace "most" of the ac HARD PARTS AND O-RINGS seals etc-
    especially if I find "broken bits" of hard debris

    So yes I hope to get it running-the compressor-leak hunt seriously-once I find the leak-
    I will go from there
    So yes I'm trying to jump it-force the compressor on while immediately charging it-134a+ a little correct oil

    And yes I'm aware those orange protected wire bundles-deadly voltage-
    and unintended consequences-I might shut down the car-
    so I'm not going to try too hard

    Bringing it to a shop-isn't an option
    1) don't have $1500+ they would charge-$$ problems
    2) there aren't any "good honest competent" shops in NOLA-none that I have found
    3) I haven't brought any car to a shop-for other than recalls and tire replacements-since 1997 or so-
    had 1995 accord 1994 toyota pickup 1998 toyota pickup 2001 Tundra 2003 Honda SUV 2004 titan pickup 2001 Prizm(corolla clone)
    2006 Prius(still have it) 1998 suburban( still have it bought 2007 with 195,000 miles on it)-
    I DIY replace parts-but the Prius hasn't needed anything but the inverter pump and new BP
    So I'm stuck DIY-ing-I'm safety conscious-and work slowly patiently-I have plenty of time-not so much energy
    Thanks
    Charlie
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Huh, that's inconvenient.

    I noticed their site had some pretty unpromising-looking language saying you'd need some ancient version of Internet Explorer or something, and I was worried how much trouble I'd have using Firefox/linux, but it works just fine. I think they've kept that disclaimer around from some old unlamented early version of their site. Currently, it seems pretty well designed, uses standard HTML/PNG/SVG/JavaScript and ought to work fine in a typical modern browser.

    The part with the most elaborate JavaScript going on is the wiring diagram, but it's for a really good cause, the way you can select components and wires and follow them all around the diagram, just exactly as you always wished you could do with a paper wiring diagram and couldn't.

    Very refreshingly, they have not tried to make this system hard to use, they've tried to make it help you do stuff. There's a print icon on every screen. The regular print menu from the browser works fine too. No need to fuss with a camera. If you look at posts where I've used techinfo images in the post, I've just been doing simple screenshots.

    When you sign up, you do click an agreement not to abuse the privilege. Also refreshingly, most people on PriusChat seem to behave fairly, making reasonable copies for their own later reference, using selected relevant bits in replies to other people's questions, and so forth, usually not redistributing mass copies. I'm encouraged to see that on PriusChat, and figure as long as both we and Toyota stay refreshingly fair, the resource will stay refreshingly available and easy to use.

    I can't speak to your specific model year (without dropping another $15 in!) but remembering from my old Gen 1, that definitely wasn't the recommended charge method. The civilized approach was to charge a bit with everything off, maybe up to 14 psi or so, enough to easily run a leak detector around the system and see what you find. If no leaks, then continue to charge up close to the right amount, or at least enough to make the pressure switch. Then you don't have to jump anything, and just swap your connections and finish the charge with the compressor running.

    Just be sure to follow really closely your manifold valve changes and cylinder position between those different steps, lest you either slug the compressor or blow up your gas cylinder (potentially Darwin-award eligible).

    -Chap
     
  5. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Member

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    Chap

    Thanks for the info
    good to know that I will be able to make "paper copies" of the info I need-
    I'm old-so I like to read reread "stuff" before actually doing the work
    and I like to have it literally-at hand-when doing the work

    The reason I'm trying to get the compressor to kick on is it WON'T accept any charge-
    When the compressor isn't running-now-the pressure in the low side-is over 100 psi according to my gauge-
    guessing once it kicks on-the pressure drops to less than the vapor pressure of 134a

    I will sign up soon-get my printer warmed up-and get the info I need

    Thanks
    Charlie
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Hmm, I thought I replied to this yesterday, maybe I never clicked Post...

    Anyway, there ought to be two side valves on your manifold gauge set ... that's how you can use it in the official, civilized procedure for charging when the pressure is too low to start the compressor yet.

    But really you should read and follow the procedure very attentively (especially regarding when to close and open which valves, and change positions of the charging cylinder) because there are two different Bad Things that can happen otherwise....

    -Chap
     
  7. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Member

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    Chap

    Thanks for the info/advice and caution.
    I have put it on the back burner for now-
    until I get a set of gauges-all I have now is the gauge built into the "ac refill line-$20 amazon"-it reads over 100 psi -low side-with the compressor off-
    when I used it 9 months ago-compressor on-it was in the low range-and then went to 'normal' 40 or so psi as the 10 ounce can went in
    And I have to sign up for the site-and print out the important A/C info
    Thanks
    Charlie
     
    #7 phoebeisis, Jun 4, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2016
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    "Normal" is not 40 psi. That is your first problem. When the correct amount of refrigerant is added, the low pressure side should measure from 22 to 36 psi and the high pressure side should measure from 198 to 228 psi under the following conditions: air inlet temp is around 90 degrees F, fan speed high, temp set to MAX COLD, all doors open.

    Since you have excess pressure on the low side, you definitely need a gauge to read pressure on the high side so that you can start to figure out what the problem is. You may have excessive refrigerant in the system, air may have leaked into the system, the condenser core may not be getting adequate cooling from the fans, the expansion valve may need to be replaced, or the compressor may have failed.

    You are correct that the pressure switch is located on the high side.
     
    #8 Patrick Wong, Jun 4, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2016
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  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The OP might not be able to measure those yet, as those are while-operating numbers, and OP reports the compressor won't run.

    When the A/C is off, I would expect to read similar pressures on both sides, at least long enough after shutoff for the hissing noises to have stopped. I haven't checked what that equilibrium pressure is on my car, but something lower than the operating discharge pressure, and higher than the operating suction pressure, would not astonish me.

    There's also a strong dependence on ambient temperature, strong enough that many references will present a temperature/pressure table rather than a single nominal number or range.

    Anything I say here should be superseded by what the manual says, but if I recall correctly, a resting pressure of 40 ought to be adequate to satisfy the low-pressure switch, and well below tripping the high limit, so other possible reasons why the OP's compressor won't start might bear investigating. The codes from the A/C amplifier could be very helpful in pointing the way.

    -Chap
     
  10. phoebeisis

    phoebeisis Member

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    Patrick
    Chap
    Thanks for the info
    Now-9am-75 degrees-the low side is 85psi- nothing running-the compressor won't come on
    Yesterday-much hotter-maybe 95-it was about 110 according to the cheap gauge that came with the DIY refill line

    9 months ago-it was putting out "not cool air" I hooked up the same line-with a can of ACPRO for hybrid vehicles
    9.5 134a .5 "high dielectric oil+additives"
    the AC went for room temp air to COLD air in the few minutes it took for the can to empty-the gauge went from "low range" to middle of correct range-(25-55) it was "about 40 psi-hot day-95 maybe

    Appreciate all the help-I have paper printed your answers-
    When I start this job-several months away since it is too hot in NOLA to do this job-(and my son drives the prius-I drive the ancient owner proof 1998 suburban)
    I have to get a gauge set-vacuum pump probably other tools
    and get the subscription to the Toyota site-so I can paper print that info

    I'm not too concerned about "breaking" the AC-
    much more concerned with KILLING ME- the low side access valve is right under one of the orange shielded high voltage wires
    and I'm concerned about zapping another part
    so I'll be careful
    In NOLA-high ac use-very bumpy potholed streets
    AC's usually start leaking or break in some other way at about 6 -8 years-
    My bought used-2007 195,000 miles-$2950- 1998 suburban-now at 231,000-had AC re-done-$2000 PO-in 1995 at 155,000 miles-is better than most-but it is somewhat owner proof-

    Thanks for the help
    I'll be back when I get ready for the diagnosis repair
    Thanks
    Charlie
     
  11. Singh.seattle

    Singh.seattle Junior Member

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    What are the things that are cause by failing elections. Compressor in prius. I got a 320k Mile prius 09.
     
  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Try again? (n)
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Maybe he thinks the current political situation is causing a Prius failure.
     
    Raytheeagle and Mendel Leisk like this.
  14. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    :DPatrick!
    Maybe he's kinda, under pressure somewhere?
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Too many to count.