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~100K miles, never any problems, what maintenance should I do?

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by RomaniGypsy, Jun 23, 2016.

  1. RomaniGypsy

    RomaniGypsy Junior Member

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    2014 Prius v Two. Currently pushing 100,000 miles and I have never had to do anything to the car except oil changes, air filters and tires. The maintenance guide doesn't say anything about when to do things like fuel filter, water pump, etc. No running problems at all, only noticeable thing is brake thumping under heavy braking. What would you recommend I should get done to the car in terms of maintenance?
     
  2. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Is that 'brake thumping' at tire rotation rate (pads or rotors) or ABS system thumping (pump)?

    In another year or so, may want to look at changing brake fluid, transmission fluid.

    Otherwise, repeat the 10k+ intervals.
     
  3. RomaniGypsy

    RomaniGypsy Junior Member

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    Brake thumping is at tire rotation speed. As for transmission fluid - last mechanic I asked said it's a sealed transmission and quoted me 15 hours labor for that job. Is that reasonable?
     
  4. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    No.
    My mechanic quotes $90 parts and labor, about $40 is parts.

    There are a number of youtube videos for a gen3, and the v is the same.


    This guy is clearly not an expert, yet does a fine job.
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    The guy's a larcenous idiot. That's putting it politely.

    I've drained/refilled the transaxle fluid myself, a couple of times now. It takes me maybe a couple of hours, mainly due to the time to raise and level the car just with floor jack and safety stands. The fluid (4 liters on hand, about 3.5 needed) will cost about $40 at the dealership parts counter.
     
    #5 Mendel Leisk, Jun 23, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2016
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  6. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    So is that brake thumping or tire thumping? Pulsing through pedal?
     
  7. RomaniGypsy

    RomaniGypsy Junior Member

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    Pulsing through pedal. At certain levels of pressure (usually "medium hard"), it shakes the car. At very low speed with the windows open, I can hear "shh shh shh shh" from one of the wheels. I'm sure a rotor is out of round. How does that happen though?
     
  8. rdgrimes

    rdgrimes Senior Member

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    Yes, you have a bad rotor. It may have been that way since new, but it will continue to worsen. Whether it can be remedied depends on how far out of whack it is, which is justification for dealing with it sooner rather than later. Tire changing gorillas can do that sometimes when they use an air wrench to over-tighten lug nuts out of sequence and warp the rotor.
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I watched a Costco mechanic torquing wheel nuts: no star pattern, just go around in a circle. :(
     
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  10. orenji

    orenji Senior Member

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    Tranny Fluid change takes less then a 1/2 hour, and should cost no more then $100.00. Find yourself another mechanic.
     
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  11. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Warped (out of flat plane), not out of round. They warp for a variety of reasons including out of tolerance (too thin), and over-tightening of lug nuts. Honda rotors are THE WORST for this.
     
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  12. RomaniGypsy

    RomaniGypsy Junior Member

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    Update: Three brake rotors were checked, and with at least one bad one in front and one bad one in back, I'm replacing all shoes and rotors. Amusingly enough, one of them was still good and the mechanic said it had about half of its life left - this when the car has just shy of 99,000 miles on its original brakes! I do wonder what would cause rotors to warp unevenly. The one in the back was totally shot, while the second bad one (in the front) wasn't all that bad. Why would over-torquing tire lug nuts cause rotor warping?
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    The rotors are like a big washer: drop onto the lug bolts, then wheel, then the lug nuts.
     
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  14. totita

    totita Junior Member

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    Just hit 100K on my 2012 Prius v. Replaced the spark plugs with Bosch iridium. Big difference, engine smoother and mileage improved. Highly recommended.
    Will do the 10k oil service and radiator and inverter coolant flush per service manual. The dealer does not recommend the transaxle / transmission flush. They said it is a sealed unit and they can only flush 4 quarts. I plan to keep the car for another 100k miles. Any thoughts?
    Thanks.
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Makes no sense. It's in no way "sealed"; there's a fill and a drain bolt. There is no point to a "flush", and full capacity of the transaxle is around 4 quarts; when you drain it, yup, maybe 3.5 quarts'll come out. If you've got four quarts on hand that'll do you: just refill with the car level, till it starts coming back out, which will occur around 3.5.
     
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  16. orenji

    orenji Senior Member

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    Replaced my trans fluid at the dealer a couple of weeks ago, took about a 1/2 hour and $100.00 bucks. Your dealer/service advisor needs to go back to Toyota school. :eek:
     
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  17. totita

    totita Junior Member

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    The quoted me $220 in NJ. I will probably get the fluid and take it to a local shop.
     
  18. totita

    totita Junior Member

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    The alos quoted me $159 for coolant flush and $59 for the oil change? Is this the going rate?
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    This is the transaxle fluid change? Yeah still too high.

    Get 4 quarts of "TOYOTA ATF WS" from Toyota dealership parts department, and ideally also get the two washers (one for drain, one for fill, they're identical). Print out the instruction I posted, it'll help whoever you use. The parts are around $40, and for a garage with a lift it will take about 1/2 hour. If you're providing all the parts, they shouldn't charge over $50.

    Is this a Toyota shop? And even they might not be that familiar with Prius coolant change. There's two coolant circuits on the Prius, one for engine, one for inverter. Watch NutzAboutBolts videos, pinned in the maintenance sub-forum, just to get an idea of what's involved. Again, use only the Toyota spec'd fluid, to be safe.
     
  20. totita

    totita Junior Member

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    Can somebody please confirm, at 100k do you need both the engine and inverter coolant flushed? There are two separate systems, right?
    Thanks.