You might know that FORD has a popular meaning which is captured in the title of this post. This meaning was demonstrated tonight when I drove my 2000 Mustang GT convertible (13K miles, not a typo) to a nearby Vietnamese restaurant for a take-out order. After picking up the food and returning to my car, I found that the engine started but then promptly died. After trying to start the engine a few times I went back to the exhaust pipes and could not smell any unburnt fuel. So I decided that the fuel system was the likely problem. I found the inertia fuel shut-off switch in the trunk and was able to depress the red button on top of the switch. The car started! I drove the car out of the parking lot and headed for the exit. While waiting at the lighted intersection, the car started to run rough. I shifted into N while waiting for the stoplight to turn green and revved up the engine. It died. I could not restart the car. I tried pressing the shut-off switch but it did not move down. Fortunately a couple of passersby helped to push the car back into a parking space. I called my wife to pick me up (in the Prius, of course.) After eating dinner we returned with tools, a digital multimeter, and a few paperclips. I first tried removing the wiring harness connector to the shut-off switch and connected the two terminals with a paperclip, to rule out the switch as an issue. No joy. I found the 20A fuel pump fuse and measured continuity, it was good. I looked at my Haynes manual and it showed a "typical" wiring diagram for the 4.6L SOHC 2V engine. That diagram showed that the inertia fuel shut-off switch is the last component in the 12V path to the fuel pump. I used my digital multimeter to measure voltage from the paperclip to ground. I was able to register 12V for a few seconds (the control logic shuts off voltage after that time if the engine has not started.) That seems to be proof that the fuel pump fuse and the "constant control relay module" that switches 12V power is good, and that the fuel pump is probably bad. Unfortunately replacement of the fuel pump requires removal of the fuel tank, which is almost full of gasoline. So I am going to leave that to a professional mechanic to handle. I'll need to arrange towing from the shopping center parking lot to the repair facility. Does anyone have relevant experience, or suggestions regarding an area that I may have missed? Thanks!
I only have knowledge on the older 5.0 Fox body cars sorry. But I will say you are missing out on the fun of dropping the fuel tank onto your chest in the driveway.
Those symptoms remind me of my long ago '75 Triumph Spitfire. It would run and quit, then refuse to start. Usually, after waiting 20 - 45 minutes, it would restart, run for minutes, even hours, then quit. It was some electronic component of the ignition - a relay I seem to recall. I wish I could help; I learn so much from your informative posts, but I'm afraid all I can offer is a "bump" to keep your topic near the top. Here's hoping someone can help Patrick.
It does sound likely that it is the fuel pump. 13k isn't old enough, even for a Ford, to have to replace the fuel pump. My first vehicle (a 74 Ford Courier) had an intermittent short in the fuel pump. You could be driving 60 mph on the freeway and the engine would just shut off and you would have to coast to the side of the road. Then, if you shut the key off, it would reset and you could start and drive it again until the next time. I finally figured it out by describing the symptoms to the guy at the Ford parts counter and he knew exactly what the issue was because he sold lots of replacement fuel pumps for that model.
bummer, join AAA and get that car towed safely to your driveway where you can get a better handle on the problem :thumb:
It couldn't hurt to change the filter, but I kinda doubt that is the problem. Ford seems to have their issues with electrical connections.
Had the car towed this morning, less than 2 miles to an independent garage. The tow truck driver said he would normally charge $120. It was free since I have AAA membership. I tipped him $20 as he did a great job loading the car on his flatbed, no problems.
I had a Ford Escort for a short time. It had a 'two block demon'... it would run, drive for about two blocks, and then die. Let engine completely cool, repeat. After replacing various things, we finally determined that the cam shaft was warped, and thus when the engine got warmed up, the cam-driven fuel pump stopped working. We fixed it by installing an electric fuel pump that bypassed the mechanical one. That was my last Ford.
Where is your sense of adventure? :madgrin: I have owned Fords and Toyotas. Toyotas because they are reliable, Fords because I need to use my tools every so often. :madgrin:
13,000 miles is probably not the thing. its 9 years old i think. its like all things mechanical. some thrive on daily use. sit too much, problems arise. i have Ford truck, much older the tank switch module is bad and has been that way for years (besides, i dont ever need or WANT to put in 36 gals of gas anyway) so just use one tank which is more than enough since truck only moves a few times a month.
The bill will be ~$900: $600 for the new fuel pump and fuel filter, $300 for labor. It turns out the correct Ford replacement part cost less than AC Delco aftermarket. I am told that the tech will not have to drain the fuel tank. Apparently they've got a jack that can be used to lower the tank from the car. Should be done tomorrow evening.
Will you conduct any forensics? Test pump with 12 VDC source (away from house?) Dissect the fuel filter? Bob Wilson
ouch, 600 bucks!!! You can get it at ebay for $200. New Fuel Pump Module 1999 - 2000 Ford Mustang:eBay Motors (item 110454961288 end time Dec-07-09 11:08:54 PST) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories The gas can be siphoned out through the filler neck last time when I replaced the fuel pump on the Camry., that pump cost $160 at Kragen.
Patrick. Fuel pumps are cheap if you shop around. $600 buys you an Aeromotive 1000HP fuel pump!! lol Check out Steeda's website. Reputable ploace that has been selling mustang parts for years. Direct Replacement Fuel pump $139.95 OR Jegs has a Ford Racing fuel pump listed for $235.99. I'm not sure which is the exact one you need.
Concerning diagnosis, on some vehicles the fuel pump can be heard running for several seconds when the key is placed in the run position. Good hearing is needed for this, and it may help to be in the back seat as well. I just happened to notice this in a Ford Contour I was starting today, unsure about Mustangs. This reminds me of the one fuel pump I did replace in a fuel tank, when I had it back together I remember bracing for the explosion when I first started the engine , as I wondered did I connect those electric wires in the gas tank correctly?, well I'm still here, no explosion.
No - its enough for me to know that the fuel pump had failed. Yes. Looks like the Motorcraft list price is $446, plus a gasket for $27. Due to a moment of weakness, I am helping to support a local business... http://www.partswebsite.com/fordpar...tid=30197&subcatid=33835§ion=6&type=parts BTW, the car needs a fuel pump that has a built-in fuel gauge sender. Some fuel pumps that might be recommended for this model year do not in fact have the sender. Yes, that too. Sigh... Lack of sound as well as no unburnt fuel odors helped me to conclude that the fuel system was the problem. Usually a no-start situation is either due to lack of fuel or ignition. I hadn't heard that one before, that's great!