2006 Prius 67,000 mi trouble code says...

Yes, it would be very unusual if your HV battery has failed at 67k.

 

Based upon your description of the driveability problems, it does sound like your traction battery failed. The key symptoms are the wide-ranging SOC indications and lack of power at low speeds (plus the DTC that your parts store retrieved.)

I would say that highway driving would generally constitute light to moderate use, unless your commute requires substantial changes in elevation.

 

Hi MacGyver, first time poster. If HV has indeed failed, don't take any bull about the warranty. You are covered.

He'd have to get some distance from Tampa for substantial changes in highway elevation

 

Before you go replacing the HV battery, verify that the 12v battery is still good. I've seen numerous threads where problems with the 12v battery can indicate various things may be bad and need replacement when it's just low voltage coming off the 12v battery. Remember the Prius is basically a mobile computer and they depend on a good 12v supply to give good results.

 

There, fixed it for ya. :madgrin:

 

Diagnostic fee should be covered if it is a warranty repair.

12v battery could be near the end of its life after 3 years, especially if it has ever been heavily discharged (e.g. by leaving an interior light on )

If this happens again in 23,000 miles, you should start buying lottery tickets. :madgrin:

 

It is customary for the dealer service dept to quote a diagnostic charge because they don't want to waste their time without compensation if a customer brings in a car with NTF (no trouble found.) Since a problem was found and is covered under warranty, you should not have to pay the diagnostic charge. You would have to pay that charge only if NTF or the tech found a problem not covered under warranty.

Regarding the traction battery and whether it is new or not, I recommend that you tell the service writer that you want to visit the service area when the new battery arrives so that you can inspect it before it is installed. Note that the tech will have to move the battery ECU and system main relays from the old battery enclosure to the new one.

You might take a look at the 28 modules to see if they show consecutive serial numbers. This requires opening up the cover, which the tech has to do in order to install the ECU and SMRs. If the numbers are not consecutive that might be indicative of a refurb.

 

In this circumstance I'd tell them that you know the $60 diagnostic fee is covered under the warranty, so I tell them to take that off but after thinking it over you'll take a new 12v. battery from them(as long as it's reasonable). That way if, god forbid, you still get a code or something is still not right they can't come back to you and say, see we told you what the car needed and you didn't do what we said needed to be done. Plus it's less hassle for you if the car won't start one night when you far away from home cause the 12v battery decieded to go toes up.

 

Call the dealer's parts dept and find out what the price for the 12V battery is. It should range from $130 to $160 depending upon how much they mark up prices.

The Mazda battery is not appropriate because the battery terminal polarity is reversed so to make it fit, you'll have to install it with the terminals adjacent to the fender. Then if your RR fender gets hit you'll have a safety issue as the battery positive terminal may short, causing sparks, etc. The Mazda battery will require the terminal connectors to be replaced.

You cannot use a generic battery unless you replace the battery terminal connectors. The correct battery has smaller-than-normal terminals and has a vent tube attachment. A generic battery will not have a vent tube and will vent hydrogen gas into the passenger compartment. If that battery is liquid acid, then you'll have another safety issue in the event of an accident impacting the RR fender as the battery case is cracked and acid is splashed everywhere.

 

An additional option for battery replacement:

12 Volt (12v) Toyota Prius Auxilary Battery for 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2010 with installation kit and free shipping

This has been used by many on Priuschat. Do a search on this site and you can find links to instructions with pictures.

 

the revving thing in your original post has me concerned its the HV battery, on my 01 prius the battery would show full and all of a sudden drop to 1 bar and then the engine would rev high and a triangle light and stuff would come on. since then i bought two gen 2 batteries for 425 and rebuilt the pack.

If you need a HV battery and cant afford the dealer i suggest you look at Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market, they have a lot of batteries.

 

i paid 138 installed for a 12v from the dealer

 

These days, you can pick up a good used pack for under $500. They are not so hard to change. I'm not worried about the 100K mile limitation.

 

There's a big difference in price between buying from the dealer's parts counter, vs. having the dealer tech install for you with a 1/2 hour labor charge added to the price. Sandy's dealer apparently gave her a break and did not charge her for battery installation labor time.

Since you are considering the Elearnaid alternative, I assume that you can DIY install. In that case, I suggest again that you call your dealer's parts dept for a price quote. If the price is high, try the other Toyota dealer parts depts in your area. Good luck.

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles with your 06 Prius, but I take umbrage at your choice of description. As a bicycle-commuter who travels with cars in traffic often I am pretty sure I can beat a fully functional Prius to 20 MPH any day. Good luck with the battery, I am following your progress closely as my 06 is due for a 12V someday soon.

-Jon