Oil change from other than Toyota?

There have been enough horror stories of forum members taking their Prius to a quickie-loob style place, that I'd avoid them.

Not all shops are familiar with a Prius, eg that the gas motor can be off, but the system ON, so if an improper shutdown is performed, while it's up on the lift, with the oil drained out, the gas motor could start up

I was dumb enough to use a quickie-loob place once, when I was in a hurry. They stripped the drain plug and put the oil filter on too loose.

Remember that the 2010 Prius doesn't use a spin-on oil filter, it uses a cartridge style element. AFAIK the only place to get that cartridge is from a Toyota dealer

The 2010 is supposed to use synthetic 0W-20 oil. How many quickie-loob places are likely to carry that viscosity??

 

I asked my Toyota dealer's service manager and they said that they DO NOT recommend synthetic on any Toyota and only 2 Lexus models.

 

I can't believe dealers are having so much trouble absorbing something so simple as what oil is needed for one of their best selling vehicles.

 

Will that dealership honor the warranty, when the manufacturer declines to cover a damaged engine because service they performed was out of compliance with the manufacturers recommended, or required, specifications? If they will make that commitment in writing, you are so satisfied with their service, and you will never have any reason to ever use another service provider; then, no problem, go with the recommendations of the independent service providers (dealerships) recommendations.

The likelihood of a damaged engine are probably remote, so the need for remedies is unlikely. What if the unlikely occurs? --TK

 

I talked with the Service Manager at Scott Clarks Toyota City about
several maintenance items, one of which was what type oil was in my
new Prius and assured me it was synthetic. They use Kendall and
have been using it for years, they used to use Castrol but had some
supply problems and switched to Kendall. I really would prefer Mobil
or Castrol. They charge 49.95 for a synthetic oil change and a 20 some point
check. If I let them do I supply them with my oil and se what they
would charge . I normally change all my own oil but with my back surgery
I won't be doing any of that for a while.

 

Perhaps they haven't yet opened the hood and seen the 2010's oil cap:


Of course, as a last resort, someone at the dealership could read the Owner's Manual, page 560: 2010 Owners Manual p560 Oil.pdf

 

The sorces quoted only indicate 0W-20. They do not specify synthetic. Is that oil not available manufactured from petroleum? Is it only manufactured as synthetic?

 

A quick Google search says that Mobil 1 0W-20 is the only one widely available yet. Castrol says they have a SYNTEC 0W-20 but I haven't found anyone online that sells it.

 

I can't imagine if your capable, why you don't change your own oil. I understand not everyones capable and some live in apartments etc., but then I mow my own grass too.

 

When I lived in an apartment I used to take my cars to either a friends or a family members home and do my maintenance there.

 

My BIL is an Amsoil dealer but it's not oil can just walk into the store and buy . I'm
probably going to go with Mobil One or Castrol Syntec. My dealer uses Kendall.

Here's more info than any one human being can take in.
Welcome

Amsoil
AMSOIL - 100% Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (ASM)

Mobil
https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1.aspx

Castrol
Castrol USA - Grades

Kendall.
Engine Oil - Kendall Motor Oil - ConocoPhillips Lubricants

 

What is a BIL?

 

Up here it means Brother In Law

 

I believe it is possible to buy it in a blended synthetic, where the base of the oil is at least a partial petroleum product, but the additives or a part of the base will be synthetic.

To my understanding, a dino-based product will not be able to meet the 0 end of the viscosity scale.

 

AFAIK every 0W-xx oil is at the very least a PAO blend. For example, this heavy duty oil from Esso, their 0W-30 and 0W-40

http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESEsso_Xd-3_Extra.pdf

The better 0W-30 oils, such as the made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30, are very good oils indeed

 

The German Castrol is what I use in my other vehicles and what I was going to use in the Prius, but it doesn't meet one of the specs, don't remember which. I believe it essentially isn't an energy conserving oil, could be wrong there though. So I went with the Mobil 1 due mostly to availability

 

What does 0W mean ? I know it's viscosity when cold, but is the 0 actually the same as water? Just wonder what the scale represents, you know like 0c is freezing point and 100c boiling, what does 0 in oil viscosity mean?

 

The made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is designed to be a "heavy" xW-30 oil, so it doesn't meet the "Energy Conserving" label guidelines

For an oil to be called an xW-30, at the test temp of +100 C, using the test procedure documented under ASTM D445, it must test in a range of 9.3-12.5 centiStokes. This is a kinematic test

Almost all of the oils rated "Energy Conserving" will test out around 10 cSt. The made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30 will test out at around 12 cSt. It's a very good oil, and up here far easier for me to find than Mobil 1 0W-30.

I doubt you will notice any difference in fuel economy. I never did, running either Mobil 1 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-20, in my Prius

There are actually two tests, both dynamic tests, to define a multi viscosity oil low temp requirements: one is a cranking simulator, defined by ASTM D5293, and the other is a pumping simulator, defined by ASTM D4684

For cold temp use, no matter what viscosity the oil claims to be (0W-xx, 5W-xx, 10W-xx, 15W-xx, etc), the maximum pumping viscosity cannot exceed 60,000 centiPoise or 600 Poise. Each viscosity is defined at what temp they cannot exceed 600 Poise

0W: 600 Poise at -40 C
5W: 600 Poise at -35 C
10W: 600 Poise at -30 C

Many synthetic oils will test far better than that. For example, Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40 will test at 264 Poise at -40. As part of the ASTM D4684 test protocol, the BPT or Borderline Pumping Temperature is also rated.

The BPT is done if an oil easily passes the required temp cutoff, eg a 0W-30 that cannot exceed 600 Poise at -40 C, tests at 264 Poise. The temp is lowered and the BPT may turn out to be -52 C

 

Whats the easiest way after the fact to see what oil the dealer put in?