Automatic Headlights

My L8 connector wasn't connected to anything at all (just hanging there), so I knew I could take the pin. Had it been connected to the ECU (as hawkmoon's was), I would have done more research on its use, as hawkmoon rightly did.

Totally agree. Some of these mods are definitely not easy, including removal of these pins without damaging the pin or the connector. And don't get out your 140-watt Weller (gun) iron to do the soldering, either. (I'm probably dating myself a bit...)

 

The part number for that pin is absent from the TIS system, so there is no way to look it up. It is going to take someone going to the dealer and convincing the parts person to spend a few hours on the phone with Toyota corporate before the right part number can be definitively determined. The 12750 is a good guess, but unless someone wants to order one and try it, I don't think there is any way to know for sure.

 

I also just confirmed that my mod using the factory circuits will not turn on the headlights automatically solely as a result of the wipers being turned on. So if you want that functionality, hawkmoon's method is the way to go.

I've also been asked to post the cost and time for my method:

Cost: (prices are from autopartspeople.com)

Headlight stalk, With fog light switch, in my case: Toyota 84140-07141, $105 delivered

Connector Pins: (Note, I spent nothing on pins - see posts above)
For I1, pin 4: 82998-12750: $11.34 + tax + ship
For L7, pins 5 and 21: maybe 82998-12750: same price as above
For L47, pin 19: 82998-24290: $10.32 + tax + ship

Misc wire, wire ties, etc.: $3.00 tops

Time required:
Probably about 6 hours (maybe less), once you know what to do.. I was going pretty slowly, especially during dash disassembly and pin removal.

 

You did an amazing job. I still cannot believe however, that Toyota willingly removed a $30 part that is so common, useful and more safe, on a car of this caliber. We traded our 2003 Matrix (!) and it came with automatic headlights. Unbelievable and first big disappointment of day 1 owning the car. We'll try to get it added back. I'll likely pay $$ Toyota to get it done as I am not nearly as patient or skilled as you are.

Nick

 

Finally received my replacement switch stalk and completed my mod - but wanted to provide a little piece of info to keep people from learning this the hard way, as I did...:

In the process of replacing the stalk, you need to remove the steering wheel, and the "spiral switch cable assembly" which is a round assembly behind the steering wheel and between the headlight stalk and wiper stalk. It contains a long flexible circuit which is 5-turns wound into the assembly.

1. Be very careful and make sure you disconnect the two connectors at the top of the steering wheel before you pull the steering wheel off - and make sure the airbag connectors (2) don't catch on anything as you pull the steering wheel off. I disconnected the first two, but the airbag connectors caught on the wheel ever so slightly, and pulled the snap-on "cover" off the spiral cable assembly - and the flex cable inside right along with it - -a very bad thing.... It forced me to completely remove the spiral switch assembly and take it over to the bench to try to "re-wind" it.

EDITED based on new information:

I'm convinced, after hours of investigation, that I didn't damage this unit after all in this process; after examining it and understanding this assembly's operation, the spiral switch flex has nothing to do with the angle sensor - they just are attached to each other as one assembly.

 

Can you explain the usage of the lights on the Canadian version...I've never had auto lights and beyond the obvious "they're automatic" I'd like to know how to use them....do you just leave them on auto all the time? ...why wouldn't you?..thankX!

 

So you disconnected all of the connectors, including the one at the bottom of the spiral switch assembly?

If so, then my theory about that connector's removal causing the skid light is not entirely correct, and perhaps has to do with the fact that the unit came apart and I needed to reassemble it. Maybe I didn't reassemble it correctly after all - but even the installation instructions for the assembly say that you have to re-calibrate it after installation. Interesting that you didn't have to....Very strange....

 

In the US (if you're interested), the "automatic" function is only to turn them OFF, if you leave them switched on. They will not turn themselves on based on ambient lighting.

The Canada auto headlights are truly auto on/off; meaning that the light sensor on the dash senses the amount of ambient light, and turns on the headlights (and fog lights, if switched on on the stalk) if the ambient light is less than a preset level (which is 5-levels adjustable by the dealer using Techstream). Once the car is shut off, the lights will turn themselves off about 30 seconds after you leave the vehicle and close the door. If you leave the door open or switch them off and on again after shutting off the car, I believe they shut off again after 3 minutes. But I'd need to check the Owners Manual on that part.

The idea is that you put the stalk switch in "Auto" position, and never change it. The headlights come on close to dusk (or in tunnels, very cloudy days, etc.) and turn off again once the ambient light is bright enough, or the car is shut off.

Hope this helps.

 

I, too, am dumbfounded that Toyota left the Auto function OUT of the Prius. There is no significant parts cost, and the additional labor is practically nil during construction.

This is even more painful to me this week. I am driving a Corolla rental car (while my 2010 is in the body shop -- again!), and that Corolla has fully automatic on/off lights!

Perhaps I'd be better off never having read through this thread, because it truly has me upset -- verging on anger at Toyota.

Nonetheless, I am VERY impressed with the great work done by Hawkmoon, jayvee and others on this thread. If I want this done, I'll not do it myself, but I'll probably take these instructions to a handy friend and see if an afternoon of talk and beverages won't do the trick!

 

Yes, you got that right. Just leave them on automatic and you will never have to remember to turn them on or off.

 

Instead of buying ($$) and installing (time) the Canadian headlight "stalk",
couldn't one just add one short-to-ground switch to "enable" the full-auto-headlights mode?

 

That's is what I will be doing.

 

Elaborate, please.

 

Instead of going to the substantial work of removing the USA headlight stalk
and installing the Canadian version, we are guessing that the Auto-Headlight position
of the Canadian stalk just grounds one "control" input.

If so, we can just keep the USA stalk and add a switch (probably near
the dimmer control) to connect the new control line to ground.

Then, there is only two wires (sensor and control) and one switch
(auto-mode ON/OFF) to add.

Let us know how well it works, I do not yet have the time
to "open it up" enough to install the sensor wire.

I do not know what connection(s) the different headlight stalks actually make
in their different positions.

Does anybody have the schematics for the various stalks, Please?

 

First of all I want to say thank you to hawkmoon77 and jayvee for all the information they provided on this thread and the associated foglight thread.

I received part # 82998-12750 and want to let everyone know it does not work with the L7 connector. This particular pin is too large to fit in the L7 slots.

I went to my local Toyota dealer and the shop manager was also unable to find a replacement part listed for this particular connector. He offered to let me scavenge a couple of pins from some old wire bundles sitting in their body shop.

Right now it looks like scavenging pins is the only option for completing this mod

 

Hi hawkmoon77 i wounder if you can help the 2 wires on the relay go to pin 12 and 20 what colour wire goes to pin 12 and 20 from relay please thanks vicozzy

 

can any one help please i have now brought the 545T nite lite system and i am having trouble installing i have followed posts by hawkmoon77 but i am still cant get it to work would the wiring be the same on UK model as USA model, i am not to sure what wires should be left when i remove one of the relays and do i leave the red wire connected to the relay that is to be used,the blue and brown wire on the relay do they go to pin 12 and 20 if so in what order should they connect to pin 12 and 20 any help would be most appreciated

 

If somebody can get some good, crisp, closeup pictures of the connector(s) and their
existing crimp-onto-the-wire "pins", we might be able to find
a "pin" at Mouser.com that comes close enough to work.

We would need good, very clear pictures of all sides and ends
of both the connector and the pins (if one can get one free without
damaging it), with a close-by ruler in each picture.

Is L8 an easily-accessable connector (of the same type and size as L7)?
(Apparently, "unused" L8 pins work on L7, but the part number is unknown.)

Are there any other connectors with unused "spare" pins that actually work exactly?
If so, where, please.

Needed materials:
1. a wire (maybe 18 or 20 gauge), about 6 feet long, prefered color = ?
2. crimp-on pin for the sensor end (at L1-4, 82998-12750)
3. crimp-on pin for the "controller" end (L7-28).
4. a short wire (color, size?) to go from the controller to the new "Auto-Lights" switch (or stalk).
5. a crimp-on pin (same as #3) to connect #4 to the controller (L7-28)
6. a SPST (On/Off) rocker switch to mount in one of the unused plastic covers.
7. a last wire to ground one side of the new switch.
8. a ring-connector to aid in attaching to a "ground" screw.

Maybe I (or someone) could even supply an inexpensive "kit", with just two "assembled" parts:
1. a long wire with 2 pins installed, and
2. a pre-wired switch.

Then one would only need to:
1. mount (or pop in) the switch,
2. take the "Upper Instrument Panel" (and some lower, near-steering parts) of the dash apart,
3. plug 3 wire ends into existing connectors,
4. screw-connect one wire to ground.
5. Re-assemble the dash parts.

If one sends the plastic switch-hole cover with payment, it might
be possible that the switch could even be pre-mounted as part of the "kit".

Ideas or suggestions?
The only hard part is the "currently-unknown" crimp-pin type.

The L7 and L1 connectors are already there, with unused "slots".