rear hub removal

Hi kfai...,

Hitting a wrench with a mallet usually wont work , because all the slop in the wrench, and the cold-forming of the threads to each other over the years just takes up the impact. Its different with hardened bolts in aluminum - like with motorcycles. But, on low-carbon bolts and flanges, the metal just flexes.


You need a long pipe that will fit on wrench handle, say 3 foot long. Then place steady pressure on the end of the pipe, and in the opposite direction at the tip of the wrench where it attaches to the bolt (this can be done with a jack).

Sometimes letting the penetrating oil soak in overnight does wonders. Keep soaking it up.

As this is a suspension part, avoid using a torch, as it will change the temper of the metal.

Next step is to go buy an electric impact wrench. The wrench provides thousands of impacts, and they are very short impacts, which means the momentum of the parts is what its working against, and the metal has less chance of flexing.

 

I don't have any magic solution: Prius Shim Adjustment Procedure

The tolerances are tight so I used a very gentle 'tap' to encourage the hub to move. It is easy to 'cock' it and lock it in place.

My only suggestion is to tighten the bolts to torque value and then using a 'soft mallet', tap the hub and then re-torque the bolts. You'll want to start with everything aligned. Then loosen each bolt one turn and do a cross pattern 'tap.' Repeat until it comes loose.

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson

 

I change mine on my 02 several years ago and I don't remember any problems. I think I just used and impact to remove bolts, unplugged at ABS wires and hit it with a hand sledge hammer.

 

A hand sledge hammer is an essential tool for suspension work...

 

It's not like your worried about damaging it, you have to replace the whole assembly.

 

Yes, I agree.

 

When I did my alignment correction in the rear I could *barely*
get the bolts loosened up enough to get the hub to move. And it
didn't move easily. It's all pretty strange because things
were *not* particularly rusted up back there. I guess when it
comes time to do wheel bearings I'm gonna have quite the job
ahead of me...
.
_H*

 

I understand you are having a problem starting the car now:

• Does the engine turn over but not start?
• Does the key turn and no sounds from the engine at all?
• Did you ever get an OBD scanner?

Bob Wilson

 

I just replaced the right rear hub on my 2002 prius. I had a heck of a time getting the old one removed. There was a pretty good rust ring holding it in place. I ended up getting it to move by first punching out the wheel studs to make room for putting a big pipe wrench with a cheater bar on the flange. I rocked the wrench back and forth from different positions until it finally wiggled free. It shows you what 10 NH winters combined with 243,000 miles will do to tight tolerance slide together parts.

 

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Do you have a particular one you can recommend because you've tried it and succeeded? There are some things sold as "hub/gear pullers" that wouldn't be of any use with an NHW11 rear hub, so we'd want to make sure people find one that will.

When I succeeded at rear hub removal it was with a slide-hammer puller that could be cinched down onto the wheel studs.

-Chap

 

*.*

 

Your information says you're driving a 2006. Have you used a puller that style on Gen 1 rear hubs? What did you tighten the screw against? Did you set it inboard with the jaws on the bracket, and push the ABS sensor?

I don't know whether the rear hubs are the same or different on the Gen 2.

-Chap

 

Chap, if you look at my signature, you will see that I own a Gen I and a Gen II.

I'm looking at the hub and trying to figure out how I did it and here's what I think I did (to begin with, you're right, I can't see how that puller could be used for this so I deleted that post. I was thinking Gen II for that but, I did change out my Gen I as well).

Here's what I did:
Start by soaking the entire assy w/ penetrating oil and spraying often throughout the procedure

1) I found 2 bolts that were threaded properly to mount the hub but were quite a bit longer than the stock bolts. (I can't find a good pic)
2) I lodged a flat piece of metal against a suspension component and then placed a cold chisel behind one of the bolt holes
3) I then began to screw one of the longer bolts in, from the front (not from the back but from the front), against the cold chisel for 2 or 3 turns
4) Then I placed another cold chisel behind one of the other bolt holes (180 deg's from the first one) and screwed the other bolt against that cold chisel (again from the front)
5) Then unscrew both bolts and transfer to the other bolt holes not yet used and do the same thing

The idea is to use the factory threads on the old hub to dislodge the assy by tightening it against something solid (before the threads bottom out). I just happened to use a cold chisel and a flat piece of metal but, there are many other things that would work.

I eventually placed a flat piece of metal between the hub and mount and finished it off (I wish I could find a pic, I can find one of the hub but can't find one of it mounted on the vehicle). Pls let me know whether or not you understand what I'm trying to say.

Here's a pic but its lame.

 

Ah, ok. That makes sense. It was just when I was trying to picture how to use a regular puller there that I thought I was losing my mind.

Did yours want to bring the brake backing plate out along with it? That's what mine did....

-Chap

 

Oh yeah it did. It finally seperated though.

 

Rear bearing hubs can be a PITA to remove from rust belt cars. California cars, easy peasy.
PB Blaster, heat and a BFH can help. (big frickin hammer)
I was thinking of trying something like this next time I have a tough one, but it could tweak the other suspension components if the hub is really frozen.

 

I also need to replace the rear hub of my 01 Prius and found this one on amazon
Evan-Fischer EVA16572048274 Wheel Hub Rear 5.32 in. flange diameter M12 x 1.5 stud size 2.13 pilot 2.17 brake 2.15 offset : Amazon.com : Automotive

and also this one in advance auto part

Buy Moog Hub Assembly 512315 at Advance Auto Parts

Does any one have any info on these, how do they compare to the Timken or oem.