To torque or not to torque?

The OM does specify a torque of course but I have never used a torque wrench on either of these. I just give them both a good firm twist (around 18 ftbs) once they are finger tight. Never had a problem.

YMMV,

Peter

 

The "fact" that the dealers may do it wrong, doesn't mean I want to. The torque spec exists for a reason. Buy the tool, it will come in handy for more than the oil change (lugs as mentioned, for one).

 

It's important to use a torque wrench on lugnuts, as brake rotors are easily warped if tightened any old way

With drain plugs and such, it's nice to use a torque wrench the first time, so you have an idea of how tight it should be. From then on, you should be able to go by feel

 

I was going to post the same question after reading the oil change DIY. Have a bad habit of breaking and stripping stuff.
Would you use them for installing the strut tower brace or chassis stiffening plate? Preferences beam type or twist-click wrenches? Its slim pickings in the local hardware stores.

 

I used them for the stiffening plate since the instructions are rather implicit that it is easy to over tighten the bolts and shear them off.

I'll find out about the strut tower brace tonight when I pick mine up.

 

I second this strongly. I've experienced this from everything ranging from Acura dealer service depts to a Mr. Tire doing a tire-rack install. In the latter case, for some strange reason, they overtightened 4 of 5 lugs on each tire way past spec (I mean, to the point of having to jump on the tire wrench to dislodge them), while leaving the 5th one--on each wheel--barely hanging, let alone even hand-tight. I'm guessing the issue was a combination of absent-mindedness and using an air-impact wrench without really thinking. It pays to check and torque to spec. Doing that, I never needed new rotors in 105K mi on one car and 140K on another. This driving in the city on some of the crappiest roads known in the allegedly developed world. (reminds me, I need to check that on the Prius after the 5K "service"....)

 

I have two a lower value one that is calibrated in inch pounds that I use for drain plug, filter cap, etc. The other is larger calibrated in foot pounds and I use it mostly for lug nuts. Both are the twist click type.

The smaller one is a good quality torque wrench I have had for years that was quite expensive; the larger one I picked up at Wal-Mart for $25 or so and it's plenty good enough for lug nuts. I carry it in the car because it makes a better lug wrench than the one that is supplied with the car. I also carry a better jack and a piece of wood to set it on. It does add a bit of weight but if I have a flat tire I'm sure it will be worth it.

 

Actually they probably use a torque stick on their air powered impact wrench, therefore it doesn't look like they are torquing the lug nuts to spec but they really are. Thats because the torque stick limits the torque just like a torque wrench.

 

Good point on the rotors; and it's not such a big deal on a stamped steel drain pan, but with a cast aluminum unit (like on my motorcycle) these thing CRACK easy. But it doesn't take me any longer to torque to spec, so that's still my route.

 

Torque specification on Gen 2 is 76 ft-lb (103 N*m) for the lug nuts. That's quite a bit of torque.

Yes, you probably do need to stand on the tyre wrench.

 

100 ft. lbs. or so is usually average for most American cars if I remember correctly. If I put my 220 lb. Butt on a one ft. wrench, then of course that's 220 ft, lbs. and WAY over torqued. Two ft. wrench, 440 ft. lbs.
On edit, maybe you weigh 76 lbs?

 

Can someone post the torque specs for the oil drain plug & filter housing?

 

Drain plug 27 ft lbs; filter housing cap 18 ft lbs.