Better MPG's

A K&N filter is unlikely to improve gas mileage. It should produce some incremental increase in near WOT horsepower. K&N is careful not to claim mileage improvements, but many individuals do--often with rather flimsy bases. K&N does claim horsepower improvements on various vehicles, with dyno tests to back them. All else being equal reducing the air restriction doesn't improve mileage because the idle control, ECU/O2 sensor, and throttle all work to acheive a given flowrate. In effect the intake air pressure before the valves is unchanged...except for at large throttle openings. Now in a much older vehicle without the feedbacks and such using a less restrictive filter would allow the air/fuel ratio to run leaner, and that is more efficient as long as detonation and such don't occur.

There is an mpg sticky above in the forum where you can find more information on improving mpg.

 

In order of increasing expense:

0. Learn to drive efficiently.
1. Inflate your tires. The higher the better FE.
2. Block your grill.
3. Buy a ScanGauge II so you can see what's happening.
4. Shell gas seems to work better for me but there are too many variables to be conclusive.

 

Blocking of the grill is effective in coolers months. It is not wise to block the grill, say in downtown las vegas in the middle of the summer.

In addition:

1. Understand the stages of car operation (reading and a scangage are handy for this)
1a. Purchase, install, and use the a block heater.
2. Learn how and when its time to get the car into stage 4.
3. Minimize the use of the air conditioner. Some days I sweat when its 98F with 95% humidity.
4. Clean your car of unecessary weight.
5. Slow down. You route is critical.
6. Slow down. Traffic is critical.
7. Slow down. Elevation changes are critical.
8. anticipate traffic
9. Drive your car like it doesn't have brakes.
10. Recline the driver's seat if the windows are open to minimize frontal area for drag calculations as the wind hits your body.



When the light bulb goes on and a full understanding of how to acheive high mileage, you will be able to out perform 99.99 % of gen 3 owners with regards to fuel economy by routinely getting 100+ mpg if you desire. Flame on gen 3 owners. :welcome:








You know 10 is a joke.

If that is the university of central florida, i used to live in the park apartments off of goldenrod.

 

As others pointed out, the K&N filter really doesn't impact mileage. But the standard list:

• tires at maximum sidewall pressure - it will handle better too
• transaxle oil change - we're finding every 30k with dropping the pan a critical part to getting all the gunk out
• engine oil level - needs to be under the "F" mark, about 2/3 or 3/4 between the "E" and "F" works
• four-wheel alignment - not a trivial task, the first step is to get a reading of your current alignment

The first step is to find an online mileage database and start recording your data. With a record, it becomes a lot easier to identify what works and doesn't work. I prefer MyHybridCar.com but the EPA Fuel Economy works too. BTW, I have both a 2003 and 2010 Prius, see signature.

I don't know if it works with the NHW11 (your 2003 Prius model.) It is a way to add instrumentation that otherwise is not available.

Bob Wilson

 

1. 65 or more mpg depends on the factors listed in this thread as a starting point to get the car ready. Do you have the patience to drive slower than "normal"? When its 95F outside are you willing to ride with the windows down? AC use really hurts my mpg numbers; it consumes a great amount of electricity from the battery pack that must be created from something (gasoline). Increased tire pressure is helpful. Anticipation of traffic, a flat terrain, minimal traffic or four lane roads, and the conservations of momentum are the biggest tips to higher mpgs. Do you want to constantly keep track of instantaneous mpg values, distance traveled, acceleration rates, traffic, stop lights, pedestrians, etc. or just cruise down the road? It is mentally time consuming to pulse and glide for extended periods of time. There are great articles about p&G at cleanmpg.com.

As a quick example of p&G (there are multiple ways to come to the next conclusion, but it is listed as an example to get 100 mpg). If you pulse from 20 mph to some greater speed at 1800 or so rpms with an instantaneous mpg on the MFD at about 20-22 impg for 0.1 miles, you must glide for 0.4 miles to get 100 mpg. This routine can essentially be repeated at nausium (sp?) to get great gas mileage. That example will have you speeding up to about 28 mph and gliding to 19 mph. Others have done this for different speed ranges, so experiment once you understand the concept. What happens if you only have room to pulse for 0.05 miles; you must glide for 0.2 miles. Does traffic and the terrain allow you to do this? What if you pulse for 0.1 miles with an impg of 25? You must glide for 0.3 miles to acheive 100 mpg.

FYI, by five miles into almost any trip in the summer time, my scangage says I am at 50 mpg or better. If your commutes are short (i.e. less than 5 miles; good luck), the warmup time of a cold car in the summer without the use of a block heater is too great and hence lower mpg averages. I have a 17 mile commute to work with speed limits in the 35 mph range with an occasional 45 mph range. I rarely take short trips and I glide when possible and move out of the way of others at all times. When I am going for really high mpgs I roll up to a stop sign. By the time I reach it, I am doing less than 10 mph. No brakes.

2. Check your manual. It seems that 450 lbs is within the payload capacity of your car.

3. Blocking of the two grills; one low and one high prevents colder air from entering the engine compartment and cooling the engine during operation of the vehicle. Today it was 77F in the morning. I had a hard time keeping the engine temps above 175F due to pulsing and gliding for the first 8 miles of my commute. Without a block heater the whole block is "cold". When the engine heats the coolant the energy quickly flows to the cold parts of the engine cooling the coolant. If a block heater is used, the block is pre-heated (usually 3 hours of so is a good time). Hence, there is less transfer of energy within the block and hence less cooling of the coolant by heating the block. With the use of a timer for three hours I believe the increase in mpg is worth the expense of heating the element. I think they are 60 dollars and are very easy to install once you find the location. Do a search. Fireengineer travels the country installing them. He must work part time.

I block the lower grill in the fall, winter, and early spring with scrap 1/2 insulation from a work project. A scangage will tell you what your coolant temperature is and you gain the ability to monitor the effects of blocking your grill. Not a great idea in the middle of the summer in orlando. I did have it on my car one day with temps in the high 80's with no issue, but use at your own risk. It works.