Air conditioning gave up in Palm Springs, works in LA

I'm wondering if the battery SOC (state of charge) was getting low when you were in the stop and go traffic and the AC was cycling because of the SOC. I've noticed that in temps above 100°F, the battery SOC can get depleted pretty quickly, to the point where the car begins to rev the ICE (internal combustion engine) more because the battery is at the low end of the range (purple bars on the display). Remember that the Prius AC compressor is completely electrically powered; it has its own inverter section just to power the compressor.

 

An A/C system that is somewhat undercharged, will work ok enough in moderate temps, but in severe hot temps, conk out

 

There are detailed performance checks in the service manual. Another possibility is moisture in the system, which is possible in an older A/C system. The cure is to replace the dryer, and evacuate/recharge the A/C system.

It's important that only ND-11 oil be used in the Prius A/C system. This is a unique automotive A/C system, and a special oil is required to maintain proper electrical resistance for the variable speed electric compressor

We have had some Prius cars lose the A/C due to road debris damaging the aluminum A/C condenser in front of the rad. Inspect yours for evidence of road damage. IF there is damage, the repair will be expensive

 

something like this happened to me the other day it was so hot here turned it on and blew hot air so drove 10 miles and stopped at a store, when i restarted it the AC was cold, I really found that strange but it was at least 95 degrees.

 

Although I don't have a specific recommendation regarding a service writer, I had a good experience with that dealership a few years ago regarding my 2001 where the engine refused to run, which resulted in a correct diagnosis and a new engine ECU covered under warranty.

I also think that the root cause is low refrigerant in the AC system. Good luck.

 

I recharged my AC with 1 can of Freon (12 oz) last month. It seems to work fine, but now that we have 90 degree days here, when the car sits in the sun, it just doesn't get going. I know I am 4 oz short of a full charge. I didn't want to open a new 12 oz can and end up leaking the rest out. I have to see if I can find smaller cans. As long as you are only adding some Freon, since it works, you don't need to add oil. If you have a big leak, then you need more oil, since you may have lost some. However, if anyone needs oil, I have a lifetime supply + for myself, so I can sell it less expensively then the dealer or Car Quest. IF you get a recharge kit with a gauge, you can easily check the pressure, and top it off yourself. They cost under $20. Don't use a hose that was used on another car. If it had an oil recharge can on it, you will contaminate the oil with the old AC oil. Never use a Freon can with oil in it on the Prius, it is not ND-11 or equivalent.

 

The system is completely closed with no rotating seals anywhere. If it needs a recharge it has a leak somewhere.

 

I have been experiencing same A/C pblm...blowing warmish air at slowere traffic speeds 30-40mph, yet cool at idle or higher speeds. My local dealer has replaced the compressor to no avail...they can't seem to figure it out. My online research suggests that there may be a pblm with the A/C Amplifier (also called A/C ECU). As I understand it, this device after gathering info then sends input to the HV ECU which revs up or down the compressor. I plan to present this hypothesis to the dealer tomorrow (been there 5x now). ...will report back.
Still under warranty.

 

I have a subscription to All Data DIY. They have the same exact data as the official TIS data.

 

Mine worked perfect today and it was almost the same temp.. Love my Pri it repairs itself

 

My guess is that low-speed driving in 118'F/48'C heat is just beyond the design space of the AC system. I would also bet that Toyota designed the thing never to freeze up (it only takes one sensor feeding the ECU).

 

I am currently experiencing this problem. In more normal weather, the AC works perfectly normally. When it gets over 85F outside, the AC stops working completely. The compressor does not run and the condenser fan does not run. The AC just blows hot air. This is a binary problem - it either works normally or it stops completely - no in-betweens.
The compressor is a direct electric motor drive so no belts are involved. When AC fails, hot air is circulating thru the evap, so there is no ice-up.
I suspect a sensor in the system is turning the compressor off, but I don't know what sensor or why.

 

To check the level of charge in the AC system.
Turn AC on full cold and max fan speed with doors open. If bubbles can be seen in sight glass by high pressure port the system is low on pressure if no bubbles and DTC 86 is output system is very low or empty. Immediately the system is turned off foaming should appear and the become clear for correct level. If foaming does not appear but system works it is over filled and some gas should be removed.

Check both fans in front of condenser run and are blowing in through the condenser, it is not unknown for the fan blades to be swapped over so that they blow the wrong way.

 

Don't even think of going to Phoenix in July! The only time I went, and it was in a vehicle I owned prior to the Prius, the AC blew an overpressure safety valve, POOF, NO AC, CRAP! It cost a couple of hundred to replace parts and recharge system!
Stay away from Phoenix!

 

One way for that type of behavior to occur is with moisture in the system. Water vapor can freeze at the expansion valve, and it eventually blocks completely. The system will then heat up and the block will thaw. The A/C will start working again, only to repeat the cycle again. For moisture to get in, there was a problem from the factory, or there was contamination from a refill at some point, or a leak is present that caused the system to have negative pressure and suck in some outside air.

 

One thing you can test is , at the time it goes warm it the return line to the compressor cold ?. If cold the but not cold out dash then the cold air is being blocked or bypassed. This only works on a full A/C system and not a over full A/C system not a under full A/C. Just 3 oz or 90g makes a big differences on a hot day.

 

I have come across a few funny problems with pruis and A/C problems. Most of them cause by who worked on them before. especially with old a/c recharging machines that are off by a few oz, that was ok for old big cars with 2+ lb of refrigerant but not good for a pruis under 480 g. contaminated refrigerant, or old used refrigerant not properly recycled with moisture as some one mentioned before.