P0a37

does your stat have lemon laws? standard warranty for hybrid components are 8 years or 100k miles.. many states, like california, offer 10 year 150k warranty on hybrid components.

(so.. it's under warranty?)

air in the cooling lines could cause huge problems. I've heard many complaints that it takes Toyota to bleed the system.. or a hard core DIYer

 

I understand that your car has a salvage title; hence you have no manufacturer's warranty. If the wiring harness is suspect, its hard to say whether the DTC that was logged is legitimate or not.

Certainly you would want to rule out the possibility that the transaxle is overheating due to insufficient coolant. Check the reservoir to see that it is at the full mark, and listen to the sound of the inverter coolant pump (near the driver's headlight) when the car is IG-ON to see whether you hear air bubbles or not. The pump sounds like an aquarium pump; if you don't hear bubbles then this system should be OK.

If in fact the transaxle had failed, it is possible to purchase a salvage unit for $700 plus shipping; however you would have to find an independent mechanic willing to install it.
prius transaxle, All matching items for sale.

Once you've satisfied yourself that the coolant is OK, then you'll also want to verify that the transaxle ATF is at the proper level. To do this, you'll have to raise up the car so that it is level, and remove the transaxle fill plug using a 24 mm socket. Insert a finger into the hole and verify you can feel ATF at the bottom of the hole. If so, then the level is OK.

Unfortunately you've learned that a salvage Prius can be a very bad investment. Good luck.

 

No, V8Cobrakid,

Ilona's Prius is NOT under warranty. Yeah, it's only a 2007 with only 1,600 miles on it, but if you re-read his post look at the 8th line. You'll see that his Prius was totalled, so in Toyota's eyes it no longer has any warranty (for a totalled/salvaged vehicle).

Ken (in Bolton,Ct)

 

The service manual is pretty grim for this code.

 

Oh, lordy. If only they would ask here before buying a salvage.

 

When you drive without the engine available (e.g. out of fuel), the system allows more power through the motors as a 'limp to dealer' mode. You should not run the car extensively like this. As you found, it can harm the transaxle. Apart from anything else, the transaxle fluid is circulated with an oil pump driven by the engine. (The shaft runs through the hollow driveshaft of MG2.)

Code P0A37 is simple. Either the motor overheated, or the motor temperature sensor failed. Given you're driving without the engine available, I suspect the former. The temperature sensor is embedded within the motor unit which is sealed, so the whole thing needs replacing even if it is just the sensor that failed.

The MG2 motor can be replaced separately, but the only documented example was torturously slow as they couldn't get hold of the correct bearing load shims. The dealers will almost certainly fit an entire new transaxle.

'Check engine' lights are not a suggestion. If they light up, there's usually something seriously wrong with the car. Get them checked out ASAP.

 

My only thought is that if you thought that it was actually the sensor that is bad, and not an overheating problem with the transaxle, you might be able to fool the ECU by intercepting the sensor signal and substituting a resistance that the ECU would interpret as the correct temperature. However, I don't know what that value would be.

 

it might not be bad , being that you said it was in a front-left collision the plug located on the electric motor behind the radiator (if your in front of the car ) might be crushed or damaged, the harness wire could more likely be the problem.

 

Hello Ilona:

Thanks for reporting back here with your success. We celebrate with you! :tea:


Best wishes,