Anyone here replaced rear wheels studs? (Or have a service manual?) I was repairing a flat -- and snapped one off.
Hi "grinthock", You'll have to remove the rear brake drum and hammer out the broken wheel stud. Replace your new stud thru the hole, now the fun part... Time to seat the new stud...with an oversized nut, used as a spacer, and a new lug nut, use a impact gun and tighten until the new stud is seated. Be sure to put some grease on the new stud to avoid seizing. I've never done this with manual tools but, i'm sure it can be done. Good Luck.
Appriciate the comments. I have all the appropriate air... I just wasn't sure if it was the ususal process. No way i'm going to the dealer for this junk...
Well, I just have to ask how you happened to snap the stud. Was it a bad piece of metal, Your error, and I'm asking , not to be judgmental, but just to figure out what happened to you. Maybe some other reason, I.E. you used a impact driver set too high instead of hand tightening. I have rotated my tires myself for the last couple of times now, it's actually pretty easy. I am wondering what I should be looking out for. Since I too have Air available, I was considering getting an impact driver myself. Hope your fix happens smoothly, I feel for ya brudder!
Hmm, I think that you should first unbolt the rear axle hub and bearing assembly from the beam axle (tightening torque of the four bolts is 45 ft.-lb.) Then use a press to remove the broken stud and insert the new stud (or have a machine shop do that for you.) If you feel the need to hammer out the broken stud, hopefully you will do that in such a way so that the hub and bearing are not stressed during that process. When tightening the wheel studs, I suggest using a click torque wrench and observing the 76 ft.-lb spec. If the old stud broke under less torque than spec, I'd also like to hear about the circumstances leading up to that.
Nope, I over torqued it. I have 2 cars and a pickup. I was looking at the wrong side of the Torque wrench as I was rushing. I always put the nuts on with my air gun on low (that goes to about 50 Ftlbs) and then I use the Torque wrench. But it was set to 100... My error.
Just some closure to this thread. Stopped in at the dealer. $5.60 for another stud. Went home, here's the basic procedure that I figured out. First - The hub must come off -- you can't get enough clearance to put the stud in unless you do. 1) Remove Rear Wheel 2) Remove rear brake drum (slides off) 3) Remove ABS sensor connector (Rear of the wheel hub) 4) Loosen 4 x 12MM Bolts on rear of wheel hub, with your socket still on the bolts, tap each bolt with a mallet in a criss cross pattern to loosen the hub, then once loose, remove all the bolts (don't hit the bolts with the mallet, hit the socket) You don't need much force here, all you are trying to do is dislodge the hub from it's moutning surface. 5) Wiggle the hub towards you, holding the brake assembly back (otherwise it will come forward too, and you may damage the brake line. 6) Now that's the hub is out, hold it firmly, and smack the broken wheel stud with the mallet (shouldn't take much) 7) Grease the new wheel stud a bit on the ribs where it mounts into the hub and insert it, then put a #10 Nut on the wheel mounting side - tighten that bolt down with an impact gun while watching the rear side for it to be flush with the hub -- then a quick tap more. Remove the nut 8) Re-install the rear wheel hub, Criss Cross pattern is important here, TQ to 45/FT Lbs (Pattern installing the bolts is VERY important as the hub will mate itself with it's mounting surface) 9) re-install brake drum, ABS sensor, wheel, and Torque the lug nuts to proper specifications. 10) IMPORTANT: Check wheel torque after your next trip. That's it. Thanks for the tips from everyone here - it was an easy job, but I figured I would outline in case someone comes looking for it again the search feature will bring up this post keywords: Wheel Stud Broken, Lug Nut Snapped, Broken Lug Nut, Rear Bearing Removal, Rear Bearing Replacement,
Very informative thread - Thanks - Also, any suggestions/hints on how to get a stubborn rear brake drum off? Thanks
I use an open ended nut put on backwards, a few washers and loads of grease. Pull the stud in as much as you can without the drum on, replace the drum and apply park brake, use the nut, washers and grease to pull stud home then remove drum and check before refitting the drum and wheel. I use a little never seize on wheel studs and recheck the tightness of the nuts after 100km. If one is loose check again in another 100km. Do not over tighten.
Buy a couple of 6 mm bolts, and screw into the two threaded holes in the drum. If this doesn't work, you may have to turn the star wheel that adjusts brake lining position, to retract the brake linings in a little.
I am going to have to replace one of the studs on the front driver side of my Prius. Interesting story of how mine happened: I was driving on the freeway and heard this really weird noise, pulled over and thought it was just the plastic wheel well falling down onto the wheel, so I propped it back up and kept driving. The noise kept on and got a little worse so I pulled over again. This time I shook the wheel to find out that it was completely loose! All of the lugs were only threaded on about two turns. I was able to tighten them all back down except one, which had broken off while the wheel was vibrating back and forth no doubt. I am wondering how this happened seeing as I have not changed any of my tires lately and I am sure that all of the lugs were tight. Vandalism? Who knows. Anyone ever hear of all the lugs coming loose like this or know how it could happen?
How about getting the driver's side front wheel hub off? Looks like I'd have to take off the center hub nut and I'm not sure yet how to.
I was rotating my tires and snapped a front wheel stud off. I was hand tightening when it happened and realized that the stud was heavily rusted so now I have two inquiries... 1.- Should I be worried that some of the other studs are rusted and on the verge of breaking? My Prius is a 2004 with 130k miles on it. 2.- Is it realistic for me to be able to replace the stud on the front wheel or should I just take it to a dealer and foot the bill? Thanks for your help.
