Synthetic Oil & Filter evry 10,000 Miles?

Not much. The EBH affects temperature only at the first start in a given operating session during which the engine will stop and re-start tens of times, typically. During all those other starts the engine maintains its own temperature regardless of what the EBH was doing. So it's really not any different than the situation with the engine in an old-style drive system.

 

This is somewhat accurate. We have a C230 Kompressor. Service intervals for most Mercedes prior to 2009 are 13,000 miles and this includes oil changes. Having said that, as you already know - you need to factor in your driving style and other environmental factors to determine if oil change intervals should be more frequent. This also assumes full synthetic oil.

We pretty much follow the suggested schedule and have had no problems. The car's onboard sensors and computer do a fair job of monitoring things as well.

 

That would only be true if the heater could keep the block close to normal operating temp. As an example, there are +2,000 watt thermostatically controlled circulating heaters used on large emergency backup generators, large industrial engines, and even APU's on new locomotive units, that are intended to keep the block at close to "normal" operating temp

That way, even if the motor is off an extended amount of time, it's like doing a hot restart with very little wear

Since the little 400 watt Prius heater is incapable of bringing the block anywhere near normal operating temp, no, it cannot eliminate the kind of wear you describe.

However, it does help. As I have a heated attached garage, I normally never plug in the vehicles. If the outside temp is -30 C or colder, I will plug in for an hour, it makes a difference. My schedule is very precise, so I know if I have to be somewhere

 

Just being curious... Has anyone ever reported an oil or filter related problem with a PII? I haven't seen one, but I haven't looked that hard.

 

I only recall a PC poster who didn't change oil for 25K miles a couple of years ago, then was surprised when his engine had problems.

 

Wasn't there a member who had their Prius serviced by a small garage, the filter came off and the motor seized? Or how about another member who claimed the dealership didn't tighten the filter, and it was leaking?

Can't blame the car on incompetent servicing

 

Yes, it is. My last car, an old Audi diesel didn't see an oil change for who knows how long before I donated it. Ran just fine at 200k. Fit my butt pretty well. Now I am breaking in this car

My wife's Avalon is almost at 200k with dealer oil and other service place oils and is running just super. She changes her oil on time.

Yep, then you have to prove it is their fault.

 

In a moderate climate, there really isn't anything wrong with cheap crap no-name bulk oil, especially with oil changes as frequent as Toyota now recommends

However, operate in a severe climate, like mine, you run into big problems

 

I just changed my 2007 Prius oil myself for the first time today. The previous changes were all at the dealership where I purchased it because it is very close to work and I was lulled into the "great Toyota feeling" of the dealership. It has 24000+ on it.

The bastards did not replace the drain plug washer, instead torquing it down to about a million foot-pounds/Newton-meters (your choice). I won't be returning to the dealer for routine service.

Naturally, I discovered this after I had drained the oil, but am fortunate to live 2 blocks from Advance Auto Parts. They had a copper washer assortment, one of which I HOPE will be OK until next oil change. I hope there is no unequal heat expansion rate problems resulting from the copper washer against the steel or aluminum drain plug bolt. Or weird electrolysis going on.

I put Castrol GTX 5W-30 in only because I had it lying around. I intend to sell this Prius just prior to the expiration of its 3 year warranty so the additional expense of synthetic oil does not make financial sense for me. You still gotta get rid of the dirt in the oil, organic or synthetic.

I also used a Fram PH oil filter as I understand they are better than most at removing the really bad stuff.

 

Lot of debate about Fram filters, so YMMV. I don't use them, had a bad experience with them around 18 years ago

As far as regular vs synthetic, I first started using synthetic lubes due to their proven low temp capabilities. If you live in a moderate climate, you probably don't need a synthetic, especially if you follow the 6 month/5,000 mile interval

 

You're not surprised, are you?

The copper washer should be fine. Perhaps it would be a good idea to just give a quick visual of the drain plug, maybe a couple of weeks afterwards.

The front axle on my FJ uses copper crush washers on the fill and drain plugs. The transfer case and rear axle use what appear to be aluminum washers

 

I use Amsoil in all my other vehicles with the EAO filter. In the civic we go 25,000 miles in the Duramax we go 15k miles. I do UOA on the truck at 15k and it always comes back with normal readings and saying to go to the next scheduled oil change before changing. I don't go longer due to wanting to saty within Amsoil's guaratee for severe service which if 15k miles.

 

As long as it isn't leaking you should be okay. I had a used F150 that the previous owner had let someone else service. The moron had not used a gasket and had overtorqued the plug trying to seal it. The plug was semi-stripped as a result, so even when I put in a gasket it continued to leak. I had to order a new plug (took two weeks to get it, on Ford's most common V-8 ) and another oil change before the thing stopped leaking oil. Fords love to leak fluids anyway, they don't need any help!

Fram is generally considered to be junk, unfortunately.

 

Sage -Sounds like you may know the answer to my question as you change your own oil. I have looked all over the manuel that came with my car but cannot find how to turn off the light that tells you Mait Req - when it is time to change the oil. I was away from a dealer last time it needed changing and a Wal-Mart center changed it - but did not know how to turn off the light and since I did not have the dealer do it, I do not want to ask them, if they will even tell me! Advice please on where to maybe find the info if ya do not know?

 

To reset maint. Required light hold milage reset button while starting hold until it goes out. You're done.

 

Sure am glad the Canadian market Prius and FJ don't have that naggy light

 

r

 

"r"

 

Using Amsoil, I've gone 11,000 and 13,000 miles on my "07. Prior to that, other cars, using M1, I've always gone 12 to 15k, since the mid seventy's. Once went over 20k. Never a problem.

 

Synthetic oils really are amazing. A lot of folks think their claim to fame is extended oil changes. What really sold me on synthetic oils was PROVEN performance at -40