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post a/c repair - lots of problems, please help!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by jamielu, Jul 26, 2008.

  1. jamielu

    jamielu New Member

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    Hi - I posted this on prisuonline as well, looking for possible answers...
    I recently took my 05 prius to the neighborhood shop to get my a/c fixed. Dealer diagnosed an expansion valve and receiver drier replacement for $1500, my mechanic would do it for $600. After further inspection my mechanic thought the compressor was the problem because of the weird levels it was getting. He talked to a Toyota Mech. and was assured that it really is the expansion valve. He went ahead and replaced my expansion valve and replaced the small 12v bat for no charge.

    When I went to pick it up the air was still blowing poorly and the brake, "!", ABS, CSV lights are now on. My mechanic cant turn them off. He suggests I go back to the dealer to see if it really is a compressor problem and get the lights fixed. Based on my mechanics findings, I trust he is right about the compressor.

    as of now, the air gets better when you apply gas but when idle it just blows stale air. The a/c is electric so its suppose to consistent with or without gas. I'm also experiencing very low mileage, the battery is constantly on the low recharging itself. on top of that, the car isn't receiving the signal from my keys. the door wont open unless I actually press the button on the key remote and the car wont start unless I put the remote into the key slot. I made sure that the batteries are good in both key remotes and that other electronic devices were out of reach. still no signal

    any suggestions here? what should I ask for and what to avoid at the dealership?
     
  2. galaxee

    galaxee mostly benevolent

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    wow... well 600 is some deal, no idea how they managed to not take a loss on that.

    the prius doesn't have a receiver drier, it does have a desiccant drier element.

    so basically, there's a laundry list of things your mechanic could have f*&$ed up as he disassembled the entire dash and replaced everything and discharged the system and recharging the system and adding the compressor oil, etc.

    if he added the wrong oil, he could have shorted the compressor inverter, which can trip regen codes.

    at this point, you need to get it to the dealer and have them run a diagnostic. :/
     
  3. northwichita

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    For what it's worth I had some of the similar conditions when my inverter coolant pump went out, a lot of odd warnings from the overheated inverter, and the a/c didn't put out like it should. Check the inverter reservoir when the car is on, making sure there is good turbulence/ flow.

    Concerning warning lights; My mechanic cant turn them off. I don't understand this , do the lights come back on immediately after clearing codes, and what are the codes ?
     
  4. rfruth

    rfruth Member

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    who is the mechanic so I can avoid, can you say - did he/she test drive it & see the warning lights ? Find someone who knows which end is up and have the problem(s) diagnosed :(
     
  5. jamielu

    jamielu New Member

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    Hi thanks much for the replies so far. The brake, !, ABS, and CSV lights stay on in drive, I'm not sure what the codes are I'll look into that. My mechanic mentioned he saw the lights after everything was replaced and doesn't have the necessary tools to turn them off. I dont blame him at all, he did the best he could and offered a fair price. He didnt charge me a cent for the new valve and battery considering that the a/c is still not up to par and I got a free wash and detail : )

    curious to see what the dealership finds. I want to talk to the Toyota zone manager and see if i can get a factory tech out to help.
     
  6. jamielu

    jamielu New Member

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    Noticed something - just got back from a 30 min test drive with windows down, a/c on and off at varying speeds

    Whenever there are green arrows going to the battery, noticeably cooler air is received. I also receive expected mileage. I was driving for 10 mins on an even road going 30 - 35 trying to improve battery levels then hypermiling trying to achieve better mileage - this is when cooler air was being noticed. then I had to slow down to make a turn and suddenly my mileage dropped from a 99.9 to 7.9 and the air quickly turned stale. from that point on both battery and mileage was depleting rapidly. I speculate there is a correlation to a/c but this may be coincidental?

    also...
    With the windows down I'm hearing a 'thud' coming from the very back, sounds like under the car, after braking. It happens only occasionally. I cannot find a pattern or trigger but it sure is there and wasn't before.
     
  7. statultra

    statultra uber-Senior Member

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    it sounds like your compressor is shutting off due to overpressure or lack of pressure, then once it cools down the compressor comes back on and starts cooling again, what type of oil did the mechanic use? was it ND-11? im not sure how it works but on the accord hybrid with its electric compressor if you use normal ester oil you will need to replace the entire a/c system
     
  8. galaxee

    galaxee mostly benevolent

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    well, you do have that foot air leak that comes in when you're at speed.
     
  9. jamielu

    jamielu New Member

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    Hey Galaxee, whats the difference between reciever drier and desiccant drier element? aside from price hehehe

    what is this foot air leak?

    statultra - I think you are right. It seems like it starts and quits. I doubt my mechanic used the wrong oil he has the official service book it should recommend what oil to use right? I will check with him to make sure

    really appreciate the info. I will ask the dealership to look at the compressor for sure.
     
  10. galaxee

    galaxee mostly benevolent

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    the receiver drier is a separate device that has to be removed from the car and replaced when it gets contaminated. the prius doesn't have that, instead the element can be removed and replaced without replacing the entire drier. the element part is actually more expensive than the receiver drier, believe it or not. takes far less labor, though.

    the foot air leak is forced air intake from driving at speed. even if the blower is off, you'll still get air coming through the vents that way. if the a/c is on and cooling, but the blower doesn't work, then you will still get cold air through the vents because of the forced air intake when you're driving at speed. (hint: you can turn this off with the scantool- this will be a helpful diag tool for your local tech.)

    basically, you need someone versed in diagnostics to sort this one out in person based on all possible system checks.