Hypermilage questions

First, to respond to your list items one-by-one:

1. CC is good for average fuel economy, but better FE can be obtained in most cases by actively working the pedal to keep the ICE in efficient ranges. CC keeps speed constant at the expense of RPM.
2. Good -- keep practicing.
3. Don't! To force battery-only propulsion is less efficient than staying out of the battery when possible.
4. Good. Make sure your glides truly are glides and not coasting.
5. Good. Even better is to go lower, if safe.
6. Good. Even better is to glide.
7. Good.

Then for a detailed analysis of how I routinely get 70-85 MPG on my commutes, see this thread.

 

I can get 75 to 100 MPG while going between 18 and 30 MPH. I sometimes have all max 100 MPG yellow bars across my MFD in the last 30 minutes of my commute to work. However, while driving over 31 MPH I start loosing MPG's and end up with an average in the low 50's MPG per tank of gas. I suppose if you are in an area where you can go slower without people shooting the finger or bullets in your direction, you should be able to get the magical high MPG numbers.

 

Correct. On the energy screen, with coasting there is slight regen (green arrows from wheels to battery). This is to simulate how a normal car's engine and transmission causes drag with the foot off the pedal. For gliding, you have the pedal lightly depressed (or pressed, if you prefer), and there are no arrows (this only happens at speeds under 41 mph, except for warp stealth which is another topic).

Earlier, when you said you keep your tires at maximum rated pressure, is that rating from the tire sidewalls (typically 44 psi) or the recommended pressure on the door frame sticker (35/33)? The door sticker is a recommendation based on a compromise of handling, life, fuel economy, ride comfort etc. Going above 35/33 PSI is probably step #1 for improving your fuel economy. I recommend at least 10% above Toyota's standard recommended pressure. (It's not a maximum pressure, as in vehicles that are rated for heavy loads they tell you to increase the pressure above that number when a load is present).

And as mentioned, don't try to use the battery when accelerating. That borrows energy that must be replenished from the gas engine. The battery allows a smaller engine with the Atkinson cycle to be used instead of a larger engine with the standard Otto cycle, by delivering extra energy when really needed (passing, heavy acceleration), but it's actually not that efficient itself when you include the regen and storage steps.
Bottom line, it's much more important to stop slowly than to start slowly (within reason, obviously don't try to chirp the tires on a green light).

Probably not, unless you often move your vehicle a short distance and don't want to turn it on (if my understanding is correct). You have to be knowledgeable about when to use it, and somebody who has installed it can correct me on that. If you have winters where you're at, an Engine Block Heater (EBH) is probably more useful. That and a scangauge - if you're an engineer, read up on that little toy.

 

Nerfer's answer is on target.

On the subject of the block heater, even if your winters aren't terribly cold, I would recommend it over the EV switch, especially for short drives. The greatest value of the EV switch to me is forcing ICE shutdown during warmup when the ICE is not needed for propulsion. After full warmup the ICE will shut down on its own. The EBH shortens the time to warmup and largely obviates the need for an EV switch for this purpose. And it doesn't carry the risks of the EV switch: worsening fuel economy by misuse and potential warranty issues.

At the risk of overwhelming you (though I figure an EE can handle it ), here are two more links to long-winded discussions: one on gliding (in particular a comparison of two methods) and the other on the EV switch.

 

Did I hear engine block heater in northern California?

Wayne

 

Uh-oh. Itching for another road trip again, huh?

 

HOW about the EV switch mod? i'm eager to hear the census on that!

 

That is correct. Even with our normal 34-40deg winter mornings an EBH can help boost the MPG in that crucial first 2-4 minutes of your commute. I have not purchased one yet as I don't garage my car and don't want to have an extension cord hanging out in the driveway. I did start grille blocking though.

I practice this sometimes to "artificially" boost my MPG # when I've had to deal with traffic and lowered my #s more than I would like.

I think the first step would be to remove your shoe so you can get a better feel for the pedal.

There are various explainations on how you should pulse (accelerate) so I'll let the experts go over that. As for the glide part. Once you have pulsed up to the desired speed simply lift off the gas pedal completely then very lightly press back down on it again. If you are under 39mph then you will see the green (battery) arrows appear for a brief moment then they will disappear and you will be gliding. If the green arrows remain then reduce gas pedal pressure slightly till they go away or lift off completely and try again. If you continue to have trouble then you could have a number of other issues that are inhibitig your ability to glide and they include but are not limited to:

• Battery SOC is low and is keeping the ICE on to charge it
• Battery is hot (you will still appear to glide but the scangauge tells it differently)
• Engine is not up to operating temperate
• You are on an incline (you can generally still glide but it's not effective)
• You are over the 39mph limit for full no arrows glide (that's how it works on my '05)