Playing around with pulsing and gliding, I realized how hard it can be to ge in a good glide (no arrows) Wouldn't it be cool, if you could just push a button ont he dash that would put the car into glide (no arrows) mode. Then you wouldn't have to constantly play with the throttle to keep it neutral. I don't think I would hack my car for such a device, but if someone else wre to do it,,,,, Icarus
True, but it sure complicates the process. A 'glide' button that would automatically kickout with slight accelerator input would be nice....just something that replicates that slight pedal pressure it takes to get a glide.
Is there any harm in shifting between N and drive? I am getting better at gliding, but noticed I could get the same results by shifting to N. I did not that if you plan on braking it is a good idea to shift the car back into D as you get the benefit of the regen braking.
The answer is to have NO regen when off the go-pedal. Or to have the option. This is how the production EVs worked. You can have perfect "glide" with no pressure on the go-pedal, or you can dial in some regen at that point (to mimic compression slowing on an ICE). By default, I drive all cars that I can with "glide" as the default state of no go-pedal pressure. This is the way it should be!
I agree, but it is such a subtle pedal pressure, that it would be nice to override the pedal simply. I second the question of constantly shifting in to N. It seems that the wear and tear on the trans would be greater than the benefit. Opinions? Icarus
I suppose that in the same way some of the phev mods are spoofing HV SoC you could try to spoof pedal position.
Can somebody explain what those little EV cars are on the consumption-time bars? Are they an indication of how much battery recharging is going on? Is it desirable to have more or less of these cars showing for gas consumption?
I once had a Saab 99 with freewheeling hubs, much like a bicycle has. You would accelerate and the balls would engage the hub, take your foot off the throttle and they would disengage and you would coast. The problem was getting them to engage, and then lock them so that you could use compression braking. (The real problem was that people wouldn't know how to use them, and they step on the throttle and slam the balls into the hubs, causing them all to go to pieces). Was kinda cool though, you could shift without the clutch, as the freewheeling synced the gear speeds. Icarus
Each represents 50Wh of regenerated energy to the battery. Ideally never braking would be ideal and thus no cars would be best. One of the hypermiler mantras is "drive as if you have no brakes"...anticipate stops, glide/coast to stops, etc. On a really good trip home on my 14 mile commute I'll have 2-half cars (total of 1 car). During daytime traffic I'll have more like 6 or 7 cars for the same trip and my mpg will be lower. That said...it's better to have regen cars than to not have regen at all and all that braking energy dissepated as heat rather than recaptured.
Shouldn't add any wear to the trans since there really isn't one in the strict sense of the word. Shifting to N simply quits supplying power. More like turning off a switch. At least that's my understanding. Been wrong before. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Just be gentle, please. B
How much AC and other accessories that (ultimately) run off the HV battery do these hypermilers use?? If your battery is down to 40% you're all ICE when you accelerate back up to speed. I know you lose energy by running energy in/out of the battery, but that battery is supposed to be a reservoir you can call upon if needed. If the battery has none for you to borrow from, what good is it except for allowing your ICE to shutdown and restart? And I'm not gonna drive my car without AC when its 105 degrees.
You don't run the battery down that low...maybe 50% at the lowest and most prefer to hold above 55%. Most also avoid using A/C like the plague.
Are you talking about the green leaves on the bars? Each green leaf represents 50WH of energy recaptured by regenerative braking. For best mileage you don't want any of them. If you have to brake, having them is better than using the friction brakes or engine braking. Tom
As few as possible while still supplying them with the data they desire. It is good for allowing your ICE to shutdown and restart. Oh, other than that? Well, if you aren't trying to maximize your MPG, then it is good for keeping the A/C and other accessories running, as well as providing extra HP when you want to acclerate faster. It also makes it possible to keep the ICE off when minimal HP is required, since an ICE with barely any load is rather inefficient. Nobody says you have to. The car has an A/C system so the occupants can be comfortable if they choose to be. Some drivers choose less fuel use over more comfort.
