Replacement Key for 2002 Prius - found good source

Was your key a key fob? I lost one of mine for my 2005 Prius that has the system that sense if the key is near and unlocks the car and also allows you to start with the key nearby. Do they all do this? My local dealer wants $250 for an extra key "this include program charge."

 

$250? Thats obscene! talk about being taken to the cleaners!! :washing:

 

Thanks for the advice! Just ordered a key off ebay for $13 shipped. Hope it works.

 

I have a 2007 prius. The dealer wants to charge me 350 for a backup key. Where else can I get it - why is it so expensive?

 

Do you have a link?

 

Hi folks,

The original posting is for the 2001-03 model year Prius, not the 2004-2009 model. These cars have different key systems with the older model being much more affordable.

Bob Wilson

 

Thatss great news I am also looking for cheap keys and programing information. Could you please post more information or leave me a message. Thank you very much

 

HELP I bought a 2003 Prius with only a grey key, I need master keys not just the valet key any help would be appreciated.

 

As far as I know, you need the master key in order to add additional keys. The alternative is a new immobilizer ECU. Send a PM to freidawg, he might be able to help you, or go back to wherever you bought the car and pitch a fit.

 

How can you tell if you have a master key or a valet

Also, does anyone know the programing sequence for ``delete all keys except this one``

And does the older 2001 model have a FOB got locking or unlocking

my question mark is not working, so please ignore the lack of them

 

2001 2002 2003 01 02 03 TOYOTA PRIUS HYBRID KEY REMOTE - eBay (item 200579509209 end time Mar-24-11 12:03:02 PDT)

I found this set, and wanted to cut and program the key and the unlocking fob. Any idea how?
I know I can get key cut easily, but the programing is baffling me a bit without going to dealer and spending $$$.

I have an original key and fob, it's just all scratched and about to break wanted a second set.

thanks

 

You can get most of these answers using the forum's Search link, just using the word 'valet' and choosing Generation 1 Prius Discussion as the forum to search in (so you don't get a lot of answers for the later models where the system is different).

There are two differences you can easily check between a master and a valet key (not counting the color). One is mechanical (valet key won't open the trunk) and one is programmatic (master key makes the red security LED next to sound system go out immediately when inserted, sub key makes it light solid a couple seconds, then go out).

Technically those are two independent features; a key could be cut to open the trunk but be programmed as a sub, etc. The original valet key is both cut so it won't open the trunk, and programmed as a sub.
A sub key can't be used to access the programming procedure to register other keys.

The programming procedures (including "forget all keys but this one") are all in the service manual volume 2 under immobiliser system. For a very cheap fee at techinfo.toyota.com you can view the manuals as much as you like for one or two days.

You can see from other threads that there are various sets of instructions floating around the net and some of them work. Hint: the ones that work are the ones that are the same as what's in the service manual.

-Chap

 

what is the color that you were speaking about? the one i have is an original toyota key that is black.

 

You can easily tell whether the cut is master or valet by trying to open the trunk. You can easily tell whether it's programmed as master or sub by watching the LED when you put the key in the ignition.

You can't easily tell anything from the color, because keys can be programmed and reprogrammed any way at any time, and I've never been able to find them on the aftermarket in any color but black, so an aftermarket key will be black no matter which way it was cut or programmed (and the ones I've bought look just like originals right down to the Toyota logo, making it hard to tell whether you're really looking at an original key or not).

An original key in gray is probably a key with valet cut and sub programming, unless it's been reprogrammed since. A black key can be anything. The open-the-trunk test and the blinkenlight test will always tell you exactly what you want to find out, and they're easy to do.

-Chap

 

great, mine passed both tests. I've found plenty of guides on how to program the new key and FOB that I bought, but i cant find the "deprogram every key but this one" option, does anyone have a link?

 

The only key programming guides you won't find in your car's service manual at techinfo.toyota.com are the ones that won't work on your car. If I remember right, it's the Hybrid Immobiliser System section under body electrical.

-Chap

 

I've got to get a complete new set of keys for my 2001 Prius.-- I've looked at your suggested Toyota Techinfo ... the Immobilizer setup cost $55/day and requires a "valid LSID available from the NASTF Vehicle Security Professional Registry" How the heck can i get my car going without paying the dealer $300 for programming or deblock this new key? Calvin

 

The valet key is gray in color on the "bow" and has deeper cuts in the "blade" in what would be positions 11 and 12 (the Prius mechanical keys are actually 10 position keys, for the VIN-encoded portion, plus two additional positions for the "open everything" or the "open everything except the trunk" portion).

 

Yes, you do indeed need a Master (black) key to reprogram the "immobilizer" to accept new keys with new "immobilizer" codes.

But, if all you have is a Valet (gray) key, you do have an alternative (two, in fact):

1) make as many duplicates of the Valet key as you need (costs about $60 apiece, and all of which will have the same "immobilizer" code as the "exemplar" key), and retain the "immobilizer", or

2) duplicate the Valet key on to an ILCo X217/TR47 blank (as many as you require, costs about $3 apiece), and then "duct tape" the Valet key around the ignition lock cylinder (requires temporarily removing the steering column cover), thereby abandoning the "immobilizer", but only you will know that this has been done as there will be no external signs of the modification.

If your locksmith is particularly adept, he can also convert some or all of those ILCo X217/TR47 keys to the functional equivalent of a Master key simply by stopping the duplication process at pin position 10 (these are 10 position keys, with two extra pin positions which encode the Master/Valet function ... no cuts in positions 11 and 12 indicate a Master, deep cuts in positions 11 and 12 indicate a Valet).