How to Siphon Gas?

There is a baffle in the tank which stops a hose going in. It's an anti theft device. My sons Celica has it too. Try putting a bend in the end of the hose and if the hose stops pull back 25mm then twist and push again.
Alternatively if removing some petrol is imperative remove the rear seat, there is most likely an inspection panel there that once removed you can remove the fuel gauge sender to access the tank. I don't know this for sure but it is common for Toyota.

 

siphoning gas out of one of these is damn near impossible.

 

Why th' heck do you want to do this?

 

if u have a windshield washer pump, u can hook it up to a 12 volt battery and run a hose into the tank and itll suck out most of the gas.

i had to do this once, we were selling a Honda Odyssey, and i didnt want to sell a full tank of gas, so i ended up siphoning it out

forgot to mention, i dont think itll work on a new prius

 

That's the prostate. You must have a male Prius, and an older one at that. You could try dropping a couple of Flomax into the filler.


Tom

 

Tom

Flomax works wonders for my Dad. However, if you're on it, do NOT stop taking it. Even if you stop FLomax for only 24 hours, the prostate can seek revenge and cork off altogether.

Not sure if you've had a foley catheter, didn't look too fun when my Dad had one

Oh, getting back to topic: there is an anti-theft screen thing in the tube. Good luck getting a siphon hose in

jay

 

Eeeewwwww...not my idea of a good time. I think those are made by Roto Rooter.

Tom

 

Perhaps it would be productive to find somewhere to disconnect
the fuel line to the front of the car, reroute it to your
container, and energize the existing fuel pump inside the
tank? The (+) lead for the pump passes through an easy to
access connector under the left-side kick panel [at least in
the US models]. Draw about 11 amps.
.
_H*

 

Anyone with a manual find a procedure for fuel removal? Maybe someone with the new Hayne's manual? There should be gas removal procedure for certain types of maintenance. Is there a drain valve?

 

In the case of my FJ, which has a plastic tank, Toyota recommends just drilling a hole in the tank before disposing of the vehicle. My 1990 4Runner had a drain plug on the gas tank.

I actually took off the drain plug every fall. You'd be surprised at the trace water and dirt that came out.

 

We get that with the diesel tank on our boat, but being in a boat, there is no place for a drain. I use a tube and an oil changing pump to reach down from the filler opening on top of the tank and vacuum out the bottom. It works pretty well.

On airplanes, you have a sump and drain for each tank. Part of the preflight checklist is to drain a sample from each sump and inspect it for water and dirt.

Tom

 

This can be done rather easily. Place a 5 gallon bucket under and about 4 feet directly in front of the gas cap, open the gas cap. Go to the passenger side of the car, stand midway between the front and back doors. Bend down with your knees bent and put your hands (palm side up) under the vehicle. Take a deep breath and LIFT, make sure you use your legs, not your back as this could hurt you. Have a buddy tell you when the bucket is almost full, then gently put the car down. Replace bucket and repeat procedure for the few gallons that may be left in the tank.

This worked very well for me on my 04' Expedition, since I only had my 7 year old helping me, I (of course) did not want him near where any gasoline could spill close to him, so I had him do the lifting portion and I kept an eye on the bucket. We had to repeat this 4 times, I have a big tank, before we got enough fuel out so that there was enough gas in there for the car to coast into Carmax.

Hope this helps

 

Tom

The pump will do a fairly good job of sucking up the muck/slime that tends to form in diesel tanks operated in marine environments. You can also try a biocide like the stuff under the Parker-Racor brand

 

We do use a biocide when we lay her up for the winter. Even with that we get a bit of slime. Being a sailboat, we go through less than a tank per season, and being a marine fuel tank, it is directly vented to a very humid environment. That's a perfect recipe for little organic creatures.

Our Racor filter is easily able to filter out the little bit of slime we get, but we did have a problem for a while. The fuel tank was purchased new about ten years ago. At that time, industry standards called for a screen on the intake of the dip tube - buried at an inaccessible spot in the tank you had a little stainless steel screen crimped over the fuel intake.

All was good the first year. The second year, at about the time things were warming up, our engine briefly lost power. It slowed down, then came back up, slowed down, and came back up again. We didn't have any more trouble with it that season. The third year it died when the weather warmed up. I changed filters and screwed around with it, and it was good for the rest of the season. Eventually the pattern became obvious: Each year when the weather warmed, a bit of slime would grow in the tank. It wasn't enough to cause any concern, except it would clog that little stainless steel screen on the intake. I got really good at disconnecting the fuel line, blowing backward through it, reconnecting it, and purging the line of air. I could do it in 90 seconds, even dead in the water rolling around in the waves. The problem would always go away after that first period of warming.

It turned out to be an interesting bit of timing, which is why it took a while to sort out. The first criteria was for the temperature to warm so that organic growth could occur. This set up the clogging situation until the first rough sail of the year, as long as the sail was after the formation of slime. When the slim formed, it made a thin pink blanket in the bottom of the tank that would coat the screen in a thick mat. The first rough sail after that stirred up the tank and dispersed the slime into small filaments that easily pulled through the stainless steel screen. That's why we never had any problems later in the year.

It didn't take much slime, so it wasn't a fouled tank problem. Our tank is actually very clean. Mostly it was the result of bad design and low fuel flow. The industry standards have now changed to recommend against any sort of intake screen. The thinking now is that it is better to let the primary filter do its job. I removed the little screen from our tank, but not without a lot of work. I had to do some jointer work to open up access to the top of the dip tube, then disconnect the plumbing and extract the tube. The little bugger was crimped on the end in such a fashion that there was only about 3/4s of a square inch of screen, most of which was further blocked by the crimp. It's a wonder it worked at all. I have it sitting on my desk as a reminder.

Tom

 

Just be wary I believe this has now been revised and it is good to use your back but you need to keep it straight. Lean forward and get the weight as close to your centre of gravity as you can by keeping your knees apart and keep the weight between your feet, then lift using then muscles in your thighs and butt as these are the largest and strongest muscles in your body. Beware of deep knee lifts as it may cause long term damage to the knee joint.

I hope this helps.