Oil type recommendation.

Which proves the point that with a well-engineered oil, one can expect long life out of a motor with minimal maintenance. Consider the VW cars in the EU with a 24 month or 30,000 mi oil service, they run fine

If you're not using any oil over that interval, I would say the motor is still in like-new condition. A used oil analysis can help with trends, such as uncover a leak past the air filter, or a slow coolant leak

In the case of a coolant leak, you could change the oil and filter every weekend and *still* ruin the motor

 

When possible, please post your UOA results from this most unusual Prius X oil change interval approach! We already know that a healthy Prius does not shed metal after it's childhood; but the engine oils' TBN remains an issue in the longer oil change intervals.

 

so many opinions here on oil change intervals. some say 5,000, others have said 10K, others have said 17,500K

which is it?

 

To keep warranty, every 6 months or 5,000 miles. In the EU, running ACEA spec oils, every 12 months or 10,000 miles to keep warranty

Running Mobil 1 0W-20, I have tested the oil at 16,000 km or 10,000 mi, and the results were fine.

I'm not sure what your "comfort level" is. Will you do oil changes yourself or have a dealer or qwik-loob style place do them?

 

+1 for tochahitu -- Devil -- post your UOA of your next oil change. We want to see the TBN of the Amsoil.

I use the German Castrol Syntec 0W30. It is the European formula. I sent my UOA to Terry Dyson and I gather from his remark that I'm good for 12.5k OCI.

The Amsoil EOA filter should be good for this interval.

I used to have a Porsche w/ a drop-in Mahle filter. I change the oil once a year at over 12k miles. Filter looks fine.

 

I do my own changes. So you think a synthetic (like Mobil-1) at 10,000 miles with a Toyota filter would be adequate? Overkill?

 

I know when I have always done my oil changes on my other cars I have always used Red Line oil or Royal Purple synthetic motor oil and have never had a problem with the stuff. Both oils have their own color, red line having a red tinge to it and royal purple being purple. When I was using it in my RSX I could go 30k miles with either a s2000 oil filter being the only oem filter that wasn't fram or a k&n oil filter.

 

Running the Toyota filter and Mobil 1 0W-20, my 10,000 mi oci tested fine. It's hard to extrapolate as the readings can't be assumed to be linear, but I would guess another 2,000-3,000 miles left on the oil

 

The commercial grade oils are clearly superior to the mass market oils. For the best protection in your bike or car, use Shell Rotella Synthetic, available at Wal-Mart in blue containers for $16 / gallon. For the best petroleum oil you can buy, get Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300, or Chevron Delo 400, about $10 / gallon at any auto parts store.

On the back of most oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. All XXw-20 and XXw-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle. 10w-40 oils should not be used in a motorcycle that runs the engine oil through the transmission. Don't buy any oil additives like STP or Slick-50. Here's several pages All About Oil justifying these conclusions.

The best synthetics are: (in no particular order)

• Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 (blue container, not white), $13 / gallon at Wal-Mart.
• Mobil Delvac-1 5w-40 (grey container, not black), $27 / gallon at Petro stations, $20 / gallon at Farm and Fleet.
• Mobil-1 SUV 5w-40, about $5 / qt anywhere.
• AMSOil AMF 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil, about $6 / qt.
• Golden Spectro Supreme, (no price).
• Motul 5100 Ester, (no price).

I use Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 in my ST1300 and Goldwing and PRIUS


Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles. I've only heard of this being a problem in Honda Shadows.
For temperatures below -40, I strongly recommend either Mobil-1 0w-30 or the Canadian Shell 0w-40 Rotella. At these temperatures, your car is your life. Using cheap or incorrect oil is risking your life. For temperatures below -55c, -65f, stay home. Really.

If you live in another country, you'll have to do a bit of research to decide on an oil. Generally, any oil certified for use in a late model Volkswagon or Mercedes turbo diesel is a good choice. Another good idea is to go to a truck stop and ask the truckers about brands. Rotella is marketed all over the world, but in other countries it's called Rotella or Rimola or Helix Ultra, and the formulation may be a bit different, depending on local climate and preferences. It will likely also be a lot more expensive than it is here.

The above is from my buddies website. He's a Scientist. Enjoy the reading.

 

Here in Canada, it's hard to beat the HD offerings from Esso. Their Esso XD-3 Extra has earned a well deserved reputation of a high quality motor oil

Locally at Wal Mart, the Esso XD-3 15W-40 is around $11 a 4 litre jug. The XD-3 0W-40 is around $21 a 4 litre jug. Most of the XD-3 viscosity grades are cross rated to SL or better for gasoline engines too

http://esso.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESEsso_Xd-3_extra.pdf

I've had some shear issues with the V6 in my FJ, so recently thought I'd try Mobil 1 0W-40. The "European Car Formula" has a lot more ZDDP than the North American oils. I'll run it 8,000 km and see what the uoa tells me

Mobil 1 0W-40

Just based on the ACEA and Mercedes/BMW ratings, it appears to be the best Mobil 1 product

The comments about wet clutch slippage does not apply to passenger cars. The only commercial wet clutch systems are found in front end loaders with powershift transmissions, wet clutch/brake systems found in tractors and industrial equipment, etc

For the powershift equipment, there is usually a specific transmission oil made for it, or a generic like Esso

http://esso.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESEssotran_MG.pdf

http://esso.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESHydraul.pdf

But don't even get me started on crap API "Starburst" rated oils. Like how they conveniently ignore cold sludge, cold stuck rings, etc, and still earn a "pass."

 

There are people that believe in thicker is better, and some that believe thinner is better. I am in the thinner is better camp. My UOA's are looking pretty good.

http://priuschat.com/forums/file-library/27820-uoa-used-oil-analysis-4.html

I am going to change the current oil at 7500 miles.

 

Winston: nothing to complain about in your posted UOA or oil change interval plans.

Group: what happened to Priuschat's used engine oil analysis spreadsheet? It would be a great resource to have that available for both new visitors, and old-timers who want to sniff for trends.

 

I have 2013 regular hatchback Toyota had always changed my oil and supposedly used synthetic.
now that it not free my son will do it do I need synthetic...they want 79.99 for oil change at Toyota

 

The oil weight specd for North America is 0W20. If you stick with that, and I probably would, the available oils are pretty much all synthetic.

We seem to have a sweetheart deal up here: Toyota 0W20 through the dealership parts dept is $5.91 per bottled liter, or $4.50 for bulk (bring your own container) liter. Note: litres are a bit bigger than quarts, and that's Canadian $'s.

In the 'states seems like dealership deals are not that good, and it's cheaper buying a 5 quart bottle of Mobil 1 thru somewhere like Walmart.

 

68k miles, I have had my Prius since April.. I get 38-42mph, depending how/where I drive. I was in FL (only using 5W-30) and now in TN everyone wants me to go to the 0W-20

Am I going to notice any difference?? With the prices they charge for synthetic oil changes.. I'm better off doing it myself!

 

100ºF summer weather.

5w30 better than low viscosity grade oil?

(sorry... car noob knownothing)

also, what would the exact oil specs for 2g prius in such weather condition in United States?

I'm thinking Castrol Full Synthetic 5w30, but I'm not certain what else I should look for in detail when choosing online.

Thanks,
TTLLY04

 

2nd gen oil spec, in owner's manual, is 5W30, year 'round, FWIW.

 

Ok... sorry. Desperate online search.

I'm guessing I'm looking for:
SAE _?_w30
ACAE A5/B5
API SN

 

Aren't you the guy with the varnished dipstick?

Just use some cheap 5-30 oil and factory filter change both real soon like 1000 miles to get some of the gunk out of there.

You just bought it how many miles on the car? Like I said its going to be a little oil eating monster so don't put any expensive oil in it and watch the dipstick closely to see how bad it is.

Main 2 reason's people sell there G2:

Bad hybrid battery
Engine is worn out from lack of maintenance or high miles or both and engine eats mucho oil.

 

It's always been kept within the family.

Battery's been replaced once a few years ago.

Mileage is over 180,000.

Last owner, my brother, said he's kept maintenance on oil change.

I'm a bit on the edge about the whole situation, because I never drove/owned a Prius, much less a hybrid.

All the cars I've ever drove were always 10+ years behind the current model.