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Electric Only Option Photos

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Audio and Electronics' started by Coastal Dave, Feb 29, 2004.

  1. Coastal Dave

    Coastal Dave New Member

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    It's a little easier in Priuschat to bring in photos and view them, so I am putting a couple of pictures of an installation of the EV mode wiring. Wayne posted a nice illustration and after my installation, I was overwhelmed by questions about it, so here it is. The installation was accomplished without taking the glove box out. Simply pop off the small square under the right silver AC vent (around 3" x 3" and start from the bottom), open the upper glove box door, then pop off the right silver AC Vent trim (start from the bottom again). Reaching down from the top I was able to release the tab on the bottom plug of the far right computer and pull it out into view through the lower opening of the dash. From there, a female receptacle pin was placed in the lower row next to the red wire in the right corner. A tap was placed on the white w/black stripe wire (ground) on the top right corner of the plug. When a momentary switch is placed between these two connections the computer will engage the programming already in place for a preferred electric mode. This is available as soon as the car is in the ready mode. If you wait until it begins the warmup state (engine cranks up), the button will not operate until the engine has completed it's warmup. Then, you can once again engage an electric only mode. The programming will quickly engage the engine if you attempt to accelerate too quickly or if the High Voltage battery is becoming depleted. This operation has already been described in the past on various forums and is provided as a helpful reminder of what to expect. The range of the car (depending on the state of charge on the battery before you start) is around 2 miles. The car is responsive and fully operational in the EV (Electric Vehicle) mode and really demonstrates the quiet, desirable option of an electric car which is still capable of cross country operation. The attached photos are vague and are not a recommendation for anyone, please proceed at your own risk. :wink:

    Coastal Dave
    www.coastalEtech.com
    [email protected]
     
    #1 Coastal Dave, Feb 29, 2004
  2. Alex

    Alex New Member

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    Is it necessary to disconnect the 12V auxiliary battery for this, or just the car being off is OK?

    Alex Karahalios
     
    #2 Alex, Feb 29, 2004
  3. Coastal Dave

    Coastal Dave New Member

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    Technically, it is always better to remove power before you do any work just in case you drop something or make an error. That said, carefully removing the plug and adding the connection while the 12V battery is still connected will not cause any trouble codes to be stored.
     
    #3 Coastal Dave, Feb 29, 2004
  4. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    Thanks Dave, the photos are really helpful as are your advice and suggestions. I've actually had those panels off before (still can't find the rattle I was hunting for), so that part is really easy.

    How did you get the wire threaded across the dash and where/what did you do to install the momentary switch? Is there a particularly easy to access spot that would work? Pictures. I also hope to get my hands on one of the OEM buttons somehow in the future and would want to replace the temporary Radio Shack version.
     
    #4 efusco, Feb 29, 2004
  5. mikepaul

    mikepaul Senior Member

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    I've got two questions:

    1) IS there a downside to leaving the car in EV Mode all the time?

    2) Can the switch be stealth-ified, like attached to the brightness control so if the switch is pushed up all the way it would be ON and at any other less-than-full brightness level it would be OFF?

    If I ever do this, I'd like it to get through a trip to the dealer unnoticed if at all possible...
     
    #5 mikepaul, Feb 29, 2004
  6. Coastal Dave

    Coastal Dave New Member

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    After posting the earlier pictures, I've come up with a different approach to the EV installation which many may find helpful. The question revolves around a few issues which must be addressed when installing the EV Mod.
    1. You should have a receptacle pin to fit in the ECU connector to add the wire properly.
    2. You need a momentary switch to fit one of the openings in the dash to make the installation sightly and functional and to provide the ground needed for the EV mode to be turned on.
    3. Many will wish to add this feaure and not make it obvious to others.

    To address these issues I have performed an installation which engages the EV mode whenever the "flash" feature (pull the arm forward) is used for the headlights. This can be used to turn on and turn off the EV mode. The flash feature is still active and only acts as the momentary switch needed for the EV to be engaged. The plug for the headlight switch is easily accessible. The plug for the headlight switch also contains 10 unused receptacle pins of which one can be removed to use as the receptacle pin needed for the plug on the HV ECU. The wiring consists of a single wire with receptacle pin inserted into the appropriate location on the HV ECU. The other end of the wire attaches to a tap placed on the violet wire on the headlight switch plug. A diode is placed inline this wire to prevent current from flowing back into the HV ECU when the car is off. The cathode (stripe) is toward the headlight switch. That is it. No searching for an appropriate pin, no mismatched switch or holes to drill, and the installation is invisible without taking panels off. It can be easily reversed in just a few moments if desired. I have a couple of photos which show the tap on the headlight switch and the diode orientation. Again, any additions are made at your own risk.
     
    #6 Coastal Dave, Feb 29, 2004
  7. Jonathan

    Jonathan New Member

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    :D :D Coastal Dave you are awesome! Thank you.
     
    #7 Jonathan, Feb 29, 2004
  8. Aspen

    Aspen New Member

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    :lol: :lol: :lol: Coastal Dave that modification is really nice. I just have one question? What type of Diode you recommend to use in the installation with the "flash headlight momentary switch". I decide to ask because I have no experience on electronic. What Amp you recommend?.

    :mrgreen:
     
    #8 Aspen, Mar 1, 2004
  9. Coastal Dave

    Coastal Dave New Member

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    The diode is used simply for blocking and can be practically any general purpose diode. A 1N4001 is just a basic 1 amp diode and would be fine. That said, if you have no electronic experience I suggest you find someone skilled to help you if you wish to perform this addition. Better safe than sorry.
     
    #9 Coastal Dave, Mar 1, 2004
  10. xevious

    xevious New Member

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    Great information - thanks Dave!

    Next question: does anyone happen to know the part # for the official switch (or a generic switch that will fit in the blank next to the dash light dimmer)?

    I'm installing mine tonight with a generic switch, but (like others, I'm sure) I'd love to have a more "factory" looking installation.

    -Xev
     
    #10 xevious, Mar 1, 2004
  11. chgoman

    chgoman New Member

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    You just have to be carefully with putting a switch in. Will you be able to change it back (and want to) if you have to take the car in for warranty work? If they see that you have messed with any electrical in the car, they can void your warranty if they choose to.

    Doing a 'stealth' install, like the headlight one above is probably the safest.
     
    #11 chgoman, Mar 1, 2004
  12. Jonathan

    Jonathan New Member

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    Where can I find pictures and or instructions of how to dismantle the areas I need to get into to access the wiring?
     
    #12 Jonathan, Mar 2, 2004
  13. Aspen

    Aspen New Member

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    :p After been reading the information about ¿how to do the EV mode modification and installation? The EV modification on the USA Prius version is very Easy... :wink:

    For those ho are close to start their Modification, I just want to express my experience. As Cosastal Dave said, is very easy to remove the: AC Vent trim and the small square plastic cover.

    I believe there only tree of those cover that you will need to remove before have access to the Plug loom. Believe me is very easy to do it. Those plastic panels are only Plugged in so no wrench required yet.

    So until now it will take you less than a few minutes to figure out that and have complete access to the plug that you going to work with it. After that as Cosastal Dave said just remove the plug from the Comp. so you can work easily. There is the tricky part: Were to find the female receptacle pin that you going to insert in the car plug….

    The female receptacle pin that I used and that is easy to find is the female pin that is use on the servos harness used on the Radio control airplane and servos for RC application.

    I use a Male plug from JR R/C radio. Go to your local Hobby Shop Store to find those Male plug or Extension that are use on R/C application. That Male plug incorporate 3 female pin and you only need to split the wire and lift a plastic lib on the r/c plug so you can remove only 1 pin. Ones you removed that only pin just continue with the installation that Dave Explain. My mayor concern was that, no one has talk about the type of the ping that you should use on it. So after this, everything will be easy because that ping fit just find in the space 27 from the car plug that you are working on it. :mrgreen:

    I use the Diode that Dave recommend the 1N4001 part # 276-1101 that is easy to find in Radio Shack, also bought a tap connector part # 64-3081 normally use on telephone wire installation.

    From there it just took me less than and hour to complete the installation. Remember that I spend around 30 minute in driving to my local Radio Shack store. So if you buy this part before starting the installation probably you will finish the process in a blink of eye. Remember you will need some extra wire, also a soldering tool. The extra wire I use is the same wire use on radio control application.

    So Believe me its easy to do, spend less than 5 buck or if you need to buy the soldering gun or shrinking tube you probably spend between 10 to 12 dollars and les than 30 to 40 minute to complete the installation on the flasher that are use for head light as Dave said in the process.

    :cry: :cry: :cry: Sorry for my English but if you guys want it I can do it in Spanish and will be easy for me jejejeje :lol: :D :lol: :D

    Hope this help odder in doing the process easy for then.
     
    #13 Aspen, Mar 3, 2004
  14. Aspen

    Aspen New Member

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    Ups sorry, just forgote to say Thanks to Dave. Your explanation were very helpfull.. Thanks for wonderfull job. Wating for the ViewTech
    Multi-Media System for 2004. Yesssssssss
     
    #14 Aspen, Mar 3, 2004
  15. Jerry W

    Jerry W Junior Member

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    1) You can't leave the car inEV mode all the time. Above all else the computers manage battery charge/discharge for maximum battery life. They will just switch you out when they consider it appropriate, and start the ICE. Besides, all battery power has to be paid for in gasoline, some time.

    2) Better to be honest than cheat. We complain about dishonest dealers, don't we?

    Jerry
     
    #15 Jerry W, Mar 4, 2004
  16. mikepaul

    mikepaul Senior Member

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    Mostly I was concerned about the hardware itself, since my switch plan was different than the flash type. I wanted EV mode on while the dimmer switch was on full, and off when not on full...
    Ummm, there's a difference here.

    I'd say if I shorted something out with the mod, then it's not covered by the warranty. Cause, and effect.

    If the mod is spotted and then is used to void the warranty with no problem traceable back to it, that's an excuse I'd rather not hand them openly. Small hints about what kind of electronics are not allowed to be added, like in-dash MP3 players, makes me think they'd look for an out if the work required, say the blower shorts out like in my Kia, would cost them money. Effect, but no specific cause.

    "Oh, I'm sorry Mr. Paul. That extra drain your EV-mode mod put on the system is what caused this part over here to fail, so no warranty. Proof? Oh, we don't need proof. We didn't sell you the car with EV mode, so we can blame it for anything that goes wrong..."
     
    #16 mikepaul, Mar 4, 2004
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