hey guys, did my 1st oil change. I'm not sure if it came w/ a crush washer/gasket. At 1st I thought it fell into the drain pan... but after pouring out the oil, its not there. It's not stuck on the drain plug. There was something the size of a gasket on the oil pan, but I couldn't pry it loose w/ my fingers. So far its not leaking... I will try tapping w/ a flathead next time - very lightly. But please let me know if yours did not come w/ a gasket. Thanks in advance. Oh yeah, details: oil filter - free via costco gift certificate oil gasket - free via costco gift certificate oil - mobile 1 $30/6qts I only used 3.4qts and its 1mm south of the full dimple. Next time I'm going to try 3.2 qts and aim for 4mm.
hey guys, did my 1st oil change. I'm not sure if it came w/ a crush washer/gasket. At 1st I thought it fell into the drain pan... but after pouring out the oil, its not there. It's not stuck on the drain plug. There was something the size of a gasket on the oil pan, but I couldn't pry it loose w/ my fingers. So far its not leaking... I will try tapping w/ a flathead next time - very lightly. But please let me know if yours did not come w/ a gasket. Thanks in advance. Oh yeah, details: oil filter - free via costco gift certificate oil gasket - free via costco gift certificate oil - mobile 1 $30/6qts I only used 3.4qts and its 1mm south of the full dimple. Next time I'm going to try 3.2 qts and aim for 4mm.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ACORNBLUES @ Sep 13 2007, 03:52 AM) [snapback]511804[/snapback]</div> The Crush Ring (gasket) deforms when you tighten the drain plug and often gets stuck on the oil pan. I use a flat bladed screwdriver (and the heel of my hand) to get it off. JeffD
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ACORNBLUES @ Sep 13 2007, 03:52 AM) [snapback]511804[/snapback]</div> The Crush Ring (gasket) deforms when you tighten the drain plug and often gets stuck on the oil pan. I use a flat bladed screwdriver (and the heel of my hand) to get it off. JeffD
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ACORNBLUES @ Sep 13 2007, 03:52 AM) [snapback]511804[/snapback]</div> Just curious...why are you trying for an oil level thats below the full line? I used 3.5 quarts and it hit the full line right on the mark. Also I would use the factory original filter. Its only $6 at the dealer and will be superior to anything you can buy elsewhere.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Drifty'sDad @ Sep 19 2007, 10:13 PM) [snapback]515096[/snapback]</div> There is a "minimum" mark and a "Maximum" mark...neither are 'full' marks. Any oil level between the two is safe and adequate. Above or below could be problematic. Even 3 quarts will get you to the 'minimum' level.
You should bring it up to the full mark lest you miss out on splash lube. Any fuller and your splash lube turns to froth (bad). Nate
Same here, except I also installed an fumoto oil valve and poured in the oil before I noticed... I hope it doesn't leak >_<;;
Same here, first oil change 2 weeks ago. Use a flat head screwdriver to push the washer off. The oil pan is smooth at the drain hole. Toyota filters come with washer/gaskets. $4.00 toyota filters online at www.metrotpn.com Mobil 1 5W30 is $20 for a gal jug at Walmart.
I just did my first oil change over the weekend. The prior one was done for free at the dealer. I'd never done an oil change myself before (other than on a lawn mower), but this was very simple. Rotated the tires too. It's a great feeling to know that I can do this stuff myself and have the confidence that it was done right. Anyway, yes the drain plug gasket is there as others have mentioned. It came off with slight pressure from a flathead screwdriver for me. The hardest part was getting the old filter off. I used a small strap wrench that I happened to have handy, but there was very little space to get a good twist on it. I eventually got it to give, but it took a good 10 minutes of finagling to get the right angle/pressure. I'm going to pick up a properly sized filter wrench before I do it again. I put in exactly 3 qts of Shell full synthetic and the oil level ended up pretty much exactly midway between the low and high marks on the dipstick. I was ready to put a little more in if necessary, but was pleasantly surprised that 3 qts filled it adequately. I used Shell since it was on sale at BJs and came out to about half the price of Mobil1 after rebate ($16 for a 6-pack) . Anyone have any comments good or bad about Shell synthetic?
The drain plug gasket is pretty hard to see. It's stuck on pretty good sometimes. The drain plug on my FJ hangs straight down. The first oil change was a dealer freebie - at 3,000km - and the second oil change I did myself a month ago at 8,000 km. I had to use a gasket scraper to get the plug gasket off the oil pan. It was really stuck on tight. If I didn't know better, I'd have thought it had been crazy glued on. Always make sure the gasket isn't stuck on the pan. Putting a second gasket on would almost guarantee a slow leak <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Highly ImPriused @ Sep 24 2007, 11:10 AM) [snapback]516891[/snapback]</div> I guarantee that will make the job much easier next time. Matter of fact, a properly installed oil filter is *very* easy to remove, you could almost use your bare hands. I've never understood folks who snug a filter down, then use a wrench to go tighter.
Hi All, The gasket stayed stuck to the pan on my first Prius oil change. Scraped it off, and used a replacment. No problems. Was confusing for a second till I crawled under the car and looked up and forward and saw it. Second change I used replaced it with a Fumitomo Vavle and the stainless steel wire hose clamp the guy in Indiana sells to lock the operator on the valve. The valve went on so that the valve operator sticks nearly straight back, in the closed position. Something hitting it from the front would force it more closed. So, its double safe. A little more turn durng the valve install would have reversed that of course. So the wire hose clamp is a good thing. Coated the whole thing with petroleum jelly for the winter. Came through great, nice and shiny. Just did that again a couple of weeks ago. A trick for the oil level is to fill the filter to the top carefully, getting all the bubbles out. Then put it on. Three quarts exactly finishes the job at 1/4 inch below the top mark.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Highly ImPriused @ Sep 24 2007, 11:10 AM) [snapback]516891[/snapback]</div> I have used Shell synthetic oils for years with no problems at all. They are at least as good as the equivalent Mobil products and , here at least , the availability is better and the prices are lower but not by a lot. One point not mentioned so far on oil changes is lubricating the seal on the filter with fresh oil before installation. The seal can "weld" itself to the seat on the housing and a little oil helps make both the fitting and the subsequent removal easier. The method I have always used is: Remove the old filter and clean the seal seat to remove any traces of gasket seal from the old filter. Lube the seal and fit the filter. Tighten by hand as far as possible to seat the seal. Loosen the filter again and again tighten as far as possible by hand. Finally tighten an addition 1/4 turn with the filter tool to make sure it is where it should be. That's it. It probably takes longer to read it than it does to do it. Cheers , Pete.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Peter7307 @ Sep 24 2007, 08:13 PM) [snapback]517189[/snapback]</div> Peter A good point about lubing the gasket I've noticed the Toyota oil filter sold here have a clear plastic wrapper over the end. It appears the gasket is well lubed with what appears to be petroleum jelly. I've never used additional lube and have no problems taking the filter off next time, either on the Prius or the FJ Cruiser jay
