Okay, really dumb question, but I got my first oil change today and had them put in 3.5 quarts of synthetic oil. They did a great job, and left me the half quart extra as requested, but I checked the dipstick to make sure everything was in the acceptable range, and I could barely see the oil! I think that everything was pretty much near the fill line, but it was really hard to tell. There was just a very faint, semi-transparent coat from what I could see. Are synthetic oils so slippery that they just don't stick well to dipsticks? Should they be as hard to see as it seems to be right now, or might there have been a slip up?
I think it is fine, mine is the same way even after using a synthetic blend I had to check two or threee times cause I thought I didn't see enough but as time goes by it gets a little more noticable.
Even with new dino oil, it can be difficult to see the level on the dipstick. Its not related to the "slipperyness" of the oil, but the lack of dirt or contamination. It will get easier to see the level as the contamination changes the clarity over time.
Thanks, guys. As an aside, are you guys of the opinion that it's safe to use synthetics after only 3000 miles? Another post I read in researching said it's nice to use dino oil to fill any imperfections in the engine (but a few posts later someone said that was untrue).
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Boulder Bum @ Jun 3 2007, 09:06 PM) [snapback]454791[/snapback]</div> I started using M1 in my 89 Ford Ranger starting at 3k and it was still a happy engine at 120k when I sold it although it did leak oil from several places..... I'm planning to switch to syn oil at the second change (~10k) because I took it to the dealer for the 5k service (oil change & tire rotation), they: a. overfilled by about 3/8 in on the dipstick. ( I pumped it out of the dipstick tube) b. left oily fingerprints on the air cleaner housing (I cleaned it) c. placed the "reminder sticker" for the next service right in my line of vision on the windshield (I moved it) d. set the tire pressure back to factory spec even though they acknowledged on the work order that I had it set higher. ( I left it for now) e. I noticed that one of the valve caps was missing when I checked the pressure before our trip. Another cap was about to fall off. (I found a replacement in my misc parts collection) f. Based on e. above, I started to wonder if they tightened the lug nuts too. So I got out the torque wrench and discovered that they did not fully tighten one lug nut on the RR wheel and two lug nuts on the LF wheel. ( I have no idea if they overtightened any lug nuts, but uneven tightening of the lug nuts is a great way to warp the front brake rotors) Our Avalon, serviced at the same dealer, has warped front rotors and will need a brake job soon. Hmmmm? I won't be taking it back unless I need warranty repairs.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dogfriend @ Jun 4 2007, 12:27 AM) [snapback]454802[/snapback]</div> I would suggest that you send a copy of your complaints to the general manager of the dealership and Toyota. This sounds like a task that was given to an undertrained incompetent because " who could screw up and oil change". I would also suggest that you share the name of the dealership with PriusChat so that any member in your area would be aware of this dealer.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(syclone @ Jun 4 2007, 04:44 AM) [snapback]454872[/snapback]</div> I'm planning to send a note to the dealership. I want to do it without sounding like a picky nutball, so they will take it seriously. The dealership is Maita Toyota in Sacramento; I would add that this is hopefully an anomaly and that everyone that I have dealt with in the past in the Service Dept has been very professional and pleasant.