Coastal Tech EV Switch

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tadashi @ Nov 24 2006, 09:21 PM) [snapback]353848[/snapback]</div>

I have found that the switch is not a net increase of fuel economy. Some do increase economywith real skill. Others decrease the fuel economy noticably. At first, you may notice that what you seem to save will turn up as a loss when the ICE stays on longer to replentish the electricity you used up "saving" the gas in the short run.

The switch is useful when you are stuck in slow moving traffic, when you need to move the car very short distances and when showing off the car. Some hypermilers learn to use it in what they do, but that is beyond my skill level.

 

Overuse will definitely diminish MPG, because you're doing more
energy conversion in and out of the battery so more gets wasted as
heat. But the EV switch is definitely useful when appropriate...
.
slow-n-go traffic, where you want to accelerate a *little* faster
than feathering below ICE-on threshold. Can't do it too many times,
though.
.
Warmup phases, where you can force ICE shutdown at times when you'd
lift your foot and it would shut down in stage 4 anyways -- this can
extend the distance you go during warmup, and overall MPG improves.
But toggle off again and *let* the ICE push you during accelerations,
just like the car would by itself -- you're just helping it do the
shutdowns that it refuses to do earlier in the game.
.
and of course that "can you please move your car?" situation...
.
_H*

 

Is there any difference in the Coastal EV switch and the one sold on Sigma??? or are both substantially the same?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Rangerdavid @ Nov 25 2006, 11:07 AM) [snapback]353982[/snapback]</div>

The Coastal device works through the cruise control bar while the Sigma has a dedicated switch which mounts in a slot on your lower left dash panel. It is more like the factory-issued Japanese version but the Coastal is easier to install.

I'm putting the Coastal in today. Any tricks I should know besides the sheets they sent me with it?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Alnilam @ Nov 25 2006, 11:38 AM) [snapback]353994[/snapback]</div>

I'll answer my own question. When you remove the right air vent the instructions say to pry out the bottom. Be careful. The vent has two vertical pins on the bottom, so you must lift it before you pry it out.

It just took me a half-hour to install and I was taking my time. Works fine as far as I can tell. There doesn't seem to be any indication that you are in EV mode with the Coastal system except for the fact that the ICE isn't running. The Sigma switch has a light to indicate it is working I think.

I'm happy with it.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Alnilam @ Nov 25 2006, 01:04 PM) [snapback]354009[/snapback]</div>

Aside from the ICE not going on, the only sure way seems to be to have it on the CONSUMPTION screen (the one with the 5 minute bars) before pulling on the cruise control lever. If it goes into EV mode, you'll hear a single beep and it will switch to the ENERGY screen. Of course, it doesn't take much to get it out of EV mode. E.g., accelerating too fast, getting above 33 or 34 mph, or having the battery drop to 3 bars on the ENGERY screen.

Dave M.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dmckinstry @ Nov 25 2006, 05:19 PM) [snapback]354067[/snapback]</div>

And if for several reasons it does not go into EV mode you will hear three beeps and see the phrase "Cannot enter EV mode at this time" at the top of the screen. This applies only to '06 and '07 Prii.

The car is programmed to protect itself from misuse. Trust it and be grateful for that.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Allannde @ Nov 25 2006, 07:09 PM) [snapback]354092[/snapback]</div>

And although you don't get the displayed message on the '05, you will get the 3 beeps when it can't go into EV mode.

Dave M.

 

I am trying to use it over the last few miles of a journey: I am convinced that it must be more efficient to recharge the battery when I next have to warm up the engine - i.e. I might as well use that ICE run-time that warms up the cat to also charge the battery! This is certainly an area where you the driver are more 'intelligent' than the computer since the computer doesn't know you'll be ending the journey soon.

Anybody know if thus results in better FE (fuel efficiency)?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tadashi @ Nov 27 2006, 11:50 AM) [snapback]354491[/snapback]</div>

I had that same problem with the Smart Key System, I wanted to be able to leave my dog in the car for just a few quick minutes while running errands, but I wanted the doors locked with the car on for the A/C to keep the dog cool. I found out that if you put the car in park, get out, shut the doors, then you pull the small key out of the FOB and insert it into the lock on the drivers door handle and turn it to lock the doors then they will stay locked with the car "on". I'm trying to think, but as I remember the SKS doesn't work when you get back to open the door, I think you have to manually use the key again to unlock it. I would at LEAST recommend using something like a brake pedal lock so your car doesn't get stolen though. They seem hard to find, but there should be plenty around:
http://www.autobarn.net/unautx.html

 

OK, I have been lurking here for a while (bought a 2007 in October after my teenage daughter convinced me that it is ok to be green ).

I live in Wisconsin (brrr) and drive about 4 miles each to work, home for lunch, back to work and back home at the end of the day. Needless to say, my mileage has suffered as the weather has turned colder and the Prius wants to warm up for every trip.

I am considering adding the EV switch since my commute actually has about 0.5 miles at 25 - 30 MPH at either end of it (my neighborhood and my office park) with about 3 miles of highway in between. I would anticipate that I could be in EV for both 0.5 segments, since the ICE is going to run on the highway anyway. In some cases (not often now that it is cold) I can stealth in the second 0.5 segment, but I would think I could do both the first 0.5 mile and last 0.5 mile with the switch.

Anyone have any thoughts if I am correct and if it would make sense to do the mod? Any downside?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(thefortunes @ Jan 8 2007, 02:52 PM) [snapback]372654[/snapback]</div>

Most use the "pulse and glide" method, from what I understand you accelerate to about 35 or 45 mph and lift your foot from the accelerator until the energy screen is not showing any activity, in other words you are coasting. Once you are down to 25 or 30 then you begin to accelerate again. Correct me if I'm wrong on that, but they say when you are in "stealth" mode or using electric only (indicated by the yellow arrows) then you have to regenerate the battery state of charge by consuming gasoline. I don't completely understand it, and I'm still trying to work out that technique but I usually like to cruise around at 30 mph in "stealth" mode just for the satisfaction of using pure electric power. In a cold climate I would say use a block heater whenever possible, and if you decide to add the EV switch I would only use it within about a mile of parking. I don't have an EV switch yet, nor do I have a block heater (not necessary in central TX) but that is the best I can offer.

 

OK, thanks for your thoughts, but I'm looking for one or more of the "experts" to validate or deny my thought that WITH MY SPECIFIC SITUATION the EV switch would make sense. Let me explain it once more:

I have a 4 mile commute to work - 0.5 miles in my subdivision, 3 miles on a 55 MPH highway, and 0.5 miles in my office park. I make that trip four times a day (to work, home for lunch, back to work and home at the end of the day). I live in Wisconsin, so right now I never quite warm up enough to take advantage of stealth or even much P&G on these commutes because the ICE never shuts down.

I theorize that I could use EV mode for both the start and end of the commute BECAUSE THE HIGHWAY SEGMENT WILL BE SUFFICIENT TO RECHARGE THE BATTERY anyway. Any thoughts if this is accurate?

While I understand that a block heater would help for TWO of these trips, it would not help for the other two and I believe (maybe mistakenly) that EV mode would.

Thoughts?

 

It makes sense to me that putting the extra load on the ICE to recharge the battery would consume more gas than what would be consumed to propel the car initially, because a 100% efficient generator does not exist. Not sure if that makes sense, maybe this will be easier to understand. The energy used from the battery will have to be replaced by consuming an equal amount of energy in gasoline (which could have powered the car in the first place) plus more gasoline for the efficiency loss. In stop-n-go traffic I think EV mode might make sense but cruising at steady speeds I would say just let the car drive the way it does. You can further improve the efficiency of your ICE by using a block heater, block the front openings and insulate the engine bay, etc... It may be best to go by trial and error and see what works best for you.

 

I installed this switch yesterday. It seems to work fine, but when I hold the cruise control to cancel the EV mode, I don't get the three beeps that the installation instructions mentioned. Mine is the 2007 model. I can hear the ICE starting when I hold the switch, so it sounds like the EV mode is cancelled. When I initiate the EV mode, the illustrated screen w/ the battery shows on the monitor. So that part is definitely fine. Any thoughts or feedback on this?