Possible bad fuel pump

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by JC91006, Apr 3, 2025.

  1. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I have a misfire on my car that I can't seem to fix. I replaced all the common issue items like spark plugs, coils, etc. Checked all the injectors and they are fine. So I'm just left to verify the fuel pump pressure. It does seem to get fuel at the fuel rail but the misfire persists. Is there a way to check the fuel pump pressure using Techstream?

    This car is currently not charging the HV battery with this misfire so the testing is limited. Once the HV battery drains, I have to remove the battery and charge it back up using another Gen 2 car. I have checked the catalytic converter to make sure it's not blocked (there was a thread stating that was the reason). But this doesn't seem to be the case with my car
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    So the HV battery doesn't really have much to do with the fuel pump The way I check the fuel pump on the generation 2 without going to do a whole bunch of rigging up of ports and gauges and nonsense because I had a Toyota fuel pump fail on me like twice in my whole 50-year driving career and both times that happened they were just old and overheating You could literally touch them and they were hot when I took them out from trying to run and they all both of them had easily 200,000 mi on them or better and both instances usually all I do is while I've just had the car running I turn it off I take my air cleaner off the generation 2 and I undo the two bolts that go through the spacers that hold the fuel rail onto the tops of the injectors I do this and nothing has happened then I put my two hands on each end of the fuel rail and put my thumbs up on the valve cover and I gently lift the rail trying to get the tops of the injectors to come out of the rail when one does I get a squirt of fuel that lasts about 2 seconds that fills up the well in between the intake manifold and the stuff comes squirting out so hard it almost squirts into the well of the intake manifold and bounces back up and hits me in the face I'm guessing this is about 35 PSI of pressure I do believe in most Toyotas if you look up the nonsense for regular Toyotas none other than any of this new direct injection stuff just regular business It's rated for something like 28 to 46 PSI just saying looks to me like I have over 28 probably around 35 or 36 just by the way it squirts out so so far in generation 2 that's always been the case I haven't replaced any tanks or fuel pumps I thought about it but I find something else or something whatever so so far so good I haven't had the fuel pump fuel tank bladder sale I've had the gas gauge act up but when I bang on the bottom of the tank it gets right I've never had to do the level of the car business or any of that with the sensors for cars so I don't know. Fuel pressure would be one of the last things that I would worry about in the Toyota until I've done everything else which it sounds like you have but just a little low pressure I don't know if that's going to be enough to do it I truly don't so then you are good riding around town doing everything you do until you step on the gas to say pass a car 40 to 63 mph rattling sound like you got a hand hammered wok factory in your bottom end? For this problem in a car I was just working on it's been on here probably nobody's read it no matter I did change a set of fuel injectors on my '08 green car that I'm driving. That produced an 0172 oxygen sensor code immediately which I've had before on this car but has been gone a long time I removed the oxygen sensor after I change the injectors and I had this oxygen sensor code and the oxygen sensor had black soot all over it like it was in the pathway of way too rich mixture and in the freeze frame data I had an NAN on trim fuel trim or something. So then I took my downstream O2 sensor out of a known good '08 car that I have driven with no codes in the dash is still clear put it in my green car with the rich injectors drove it around a while it came back with a rich same code so at that time I took out the cleaned documented injectors from the injector place set them aside cleaned my originals right here in the driveway put them back in at that time the spark knock was gone the 0172 code was gone and I drove about 4 days then I had the 0172 code come back I looked at everything real close again Make sure everything looked right there was no soot on the O2 sensor but this one was the good one that I took out of my other good car so I just cleaned it off put it back in cleared the codes I looked at the freeze frame data or the running day to everything looked fairly normal and reasonable for the Prius that we drive and we've been driving it ever since I made a 4-hour trip the other day down to South Carolina to pick up the Chevy Volt running 75 the whole way no spark knock no problems no codes and that is back on my original injectors that have like 336,000 mi on them The nice new cleaned up things just for running too rich look like they have a different spray pattern on the pintl end
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I don't have any codes related to a bad oxygen sensor. The only codes present were misfire codes and poor engine power. It started having only 1 code for cylinder 4. I took the injectors out and cleaned them and tested them with a 9v battery. After putting it back, I swapped injectors for cylinder 1 and 4. And upon putting it back initially the misfire jumped to number 1. So I was certain the injector might have been an issue. So to be certain, I took an injector out of a working gen 2 and swapped it into cylinder 1. This should have solved my problem but it didn't. The misfire got much worse when I did this and the misfire jumped to cylinder 1 and number 2. This cylinder number 2 never had any issues.

    After being really confused, I put the one I thought was a problem injector from cylinder 1, put it into the working car and it worked fine. That's how I came to the conclusion I might have a bad fuel pump that's not spraying the right pressure. When I removed the fuel rail, there was plenty of fuel and pressure. So I'm kinda stuck without knowing how to check the pressure
     
    #3 JC91006, Apr 3, 2025
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2025
  4. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Is there any data from Techstream on the engine?
     
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Only data I can get is the misfire and poor engine power codes. So I started to diagnose according to misfire symptoms. I looked at the misfire counts on techstream and they seem to be concentrated to cyl 1 and 2.
    if I had an injector issue, it would not jump from 1 to both 1 and to 2. Since the misfires are present, the HV battery is not charging. But there are no codes for the battery except when it runs completely down to empty, then a code will pop up for hybrid error.
     
  6. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Techstream gives two hundred different parameters for the engine. Why was the decision made about the pump malfunction?
     
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I haven't determined if the pump is actually bad. I'm trying to see if techstream can show if there's a certain test for it (pressure). Right now the engine is knocking/misfiring and the battery is not charging. I can't keep it on long enough to look at any real data before the battery drains.

    If I can eliminate the easy stuff, plugs+coils, injectors, clogged cat, bad MAF, and possibly bad fuel pump. The car has 200k miles and I just replaced the brake actuator. I would probably just give up on it if I didn't put in the new actuator.

    What do you suggest I look at on techstream?
     
  8. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The example you posted is very similar to the screen that I got. An additional code for engine failed to start And poor engine power

    I can post an updated screenshot later
     
  10. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Click on any error and the snowflake icon. All engine parameters at the time the error occurred will appear. The table will stretch over several screens. You need to make screenshots and attach them to the topic.
     
  11. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You got to click on the snowflake and that brings up all the parameters of what's happening with that code like number two cylinder misfire number one cylinder misfire all of that I'm not sure if TIS software can tell you the fuel pump pressure on the rail or not I'm not positive of that Chapman could tell you that All I know is when I pull the rail off of the fuel injectors and I see it squirting out on my finger like that I'm generally figuring that's above 32 or so pounds how do I know this because I've seen 35 to 45 lb a whole lot doing this and if it was extremely low you'd kind of notice it or maybe some wouldn't anyway. I've heard Chapman say many times the only way he knows of to get a fuel pump pressure test is to tap in a fuel gauge out of one of the mini snap-on or matco kits for testing fuel systems It's a pain in the butt but it is what it is usually fuel pumps don't just lose pressure per se they stop functioning You don't hear the buzz in the tank when you open the fuel door and so on there's no pressure no pump running there's pump running and no pressure You open the fuel rail and it just dribbles so those are pretty quick checks right there that'll tell you that you have some pressure going on a dribble going on and no run condition I eat no noise You can hear the pump running back at the tank with listening ears on
     
  12. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    There is no fuel pressure available in Techstream. Toyota did not provide a pressure transducer in the fuel line.

    The only way to check the fuel pressure is to add a tee into the fuel line. This has been discussed many times in this forum. Do a search, and you will find a diagram with a list of Toyota part numbers for what is needed.
     
    #12 Brian1954, Apr 3, 2025
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2025
  13. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    List of data and active tests to check the performance of the engine system.
     

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  14. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Procedure for checking the pressure in the fuel system
     

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  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I didn't have enough HV battery power on my car to start it and get codes. But it did throw a new code for the VVTI solenoid P0010. This actually can explain the misfires and no engine power. I'm going to replace it tomorrow to see if it fixes my problem.

    The fuel pump is still something I haven't tested but I'm doubtful that is a problem. Anyways, thanks for all the suggestions. I'll check back in once I can recharge my HV battery and get the engine running for a bit
     
  16. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    The valve control system is simple, so you can easily identify the culprit.
     

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  17. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Ok reporting back on this car. The problem ended up being a backed up catalytic converter that caused the engine to misfire and not charge the HV battery. I had a really tough time doing any type of testing of the engine because the battery would not stay charged. I would run it for 5 minutes with heavy misfires and then the battery would die. Then I would need to charge the HV battery and try to start again, it was a really difficult process.

    I think when I removed the injectors, I might have contaminated one of them and made my diagnosing that much harder. Once the catalytic converter was removed, the car seemed to start charging the HV battery. That was a positive sign. And when the battery can charge, the car can properly get diagnosed.

    Anyways, hopefully this helps someone in the future. I wasn't able to get anything to point to the catalytic converter (at least not from the data and codes I saw). Thank you to all that contributed to this thread and solving this difficult problem for me.
     
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  18. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    So what cat check did you do at first that passed?
     
  19. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The check I initially did was not very scientific, it was simply looking at exhaust coming out of the tail pipe. There was no real measurement. It had exhaust fumes coming out, but it obviously was still clogged.

    Well the initial problem, the car did not have an original catalytic converter and had a spacer device installed on the 02 sensor (so check engine light wouldn't come on). I guess this device didn't register an error so it wasn't able to be detected. With a proper OEM catalytic converter and proper 02 sensor, the car should have thrown a code to point to an error with the catalytic converter.

    With the high rates of Catalytic converter thefts in CA, the person that sold me this car had an aftermarket cat installed. I didn't think anything of it until this problem caused me 2 weeks of headaches.
     
    #19 JC91006, Apr 10, 2025
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2025
  20. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Now put your hand back there at the tail pipe with the car running or someone gently stepping on the gas there's twice the three times the flow there was before If you know about this you know this when you look at a car you run your hand across the pipe sitting at idle or while it's charging or whatever you want to call it and you immediately know It's just a mechanic thing It's one of the first things checked on a car in the shop to see if there's any flow out the tailpipe if there's almost none there you go for testing purposes at my house when I see this I just take my drill and put a few holes in the catalytic converter and the car starts running better immediately then if the customer wants he can drive like that to the emission is time.