Getting ready to do the abs replacement on my 2008 and ordered a new part 44500-47141 which on all parts sites is the correct one. Then today while doing more research i come across toyota TSB POL16-03 from 2016 which says 44500-47141 is superseded by 04003-44647. looking up 04003-44647 on the various dealer parts sites its similarly prices but never has any fitment information confirming it fits a 2008. there are a few mentions around the internet of dealers identifying/selling this part as the correct latest part. but i cant find any comparison between it and 44500-47141. is it just a relabeled part or are there significant improvements to correct the original abs system problems? my issue is that i bought 44500-47141 new and then found out 04003-44647 is available for the same price so should i go through the hassle of exchanging it? annoyed that 04003-44647 has been out almost 10 years but dealer parts sites are still listing 44500-47141 as the replacement when you put in your make/model. here is an example of a dealer page selling the part but no fitment info making it come up when you search for 08 prius
theres a few other mentions of 04003-44647 on the forums and the above post is the closest i have to an answer. seem like no one knows whats different between 04003-44647 and 44500-47141. so i guess i just want a suggestion based on vibes if i should just install 44500-47141 or exchange for 04003-44647.
The 04003-44647 is the part number that relates to the TSB. The 44500-47141 is the "normal" over-the-counter part number. Both units should be identical as both part numbers relate to the same physical part.
No matter. 04 to 05 was diff part number than 06 09 makes sense . Then later merged looks like . All same. You just need 1 that works. How ya doing it . Choices
yeah i was leaning to installing the 44500-47141. it just got delivered. would be $100 in shipping to exchange it for 04003-44647. i was worried that since i spent new part money i wasnt getting the latest fully upgraded part. my 08 is only 100k miles so i'm willing to invest in its longevity. I'm comfortable with the mechanical process but anxious about the re-calibration and bleeding. doing the mechanical work in my driveway then going to try a bleed without techstream to hopefully be able to drive it to a diy shop that has a lift and do the full techstream bleed and calibration.
Part numbers that start with an 04... prefix are often 'kits' ... thrown together when a TSB comes out that may require dealers to replace a whole bunch of the things, and the kits are designed to make the dealers' lives easier. Often, such a kit will contain a few other related goodies, like gaskets and what not, that would be a la carte when ordering the usual part number. Also, odd as it may seem, the kit price is often substantially less than the price for the usual part number.
This is a generation too so just bleed the brakes with the relays out in the front put the relays in go bleed the back brakes with Mama or son or somebody stepping on the pedal same old business blah blah blah If the lights don't all come out because you don't have tech but you have brakes it's probably the linear valve offset which will allow you to drive and allow you to step on the brakes and you'll have plenty breaks to bash your teeth and do the steering wheel if you like and then the people with the AP200 or tis software we'll bleed the brakes for you Why not just spend the $63 and own the tool that bleeds the brakes and does all the other stuff You can just keep it in your glove box have it forever not have to go to somebody to do something It's really not hard to do. The screens prompt you and run you through the business It's almost certain you're going to have to deal with the linear valve offset because you're installing a brand new part and what you learned value is in your car may be quite a bit different from what it wants to learn now that new part is in place but it is possible you may skate by without doing it I have on several cars so far not mine customers cars didn't require it lights weren't on so on everything working great I don't start unlearning things just to be relearning them just because I feel like I would like to The car doesn't have lights on and there's not requesting me to do something we're probably not doing it.
thanks for the feedback. i actually have hacked techstream on a laptop and vci cable. im just going to a shop that lest you use theri lif and do your own work because i dont have jack stands or enough room. they only charge $12/hr for lift use its pretty awesome. so to clarify, full bleeding has to be done BEFORE linear valve offset calibration? i cant do LVO in my driveway right after installation?
What the heck is going on with the jack stands this is like a 3-hour job the first go around for anybody with Walmart tools. I would recommend you have a flare wrench 10 mm to undo all of the ferrules on the aluminum block itself there's a few videos I'm sure of people doing this if mechanicking at all is not your thing Do watch the videos I work on stuff just because and all of that so I know a little bit about working on things If this is something you don't do then you need to watch the videos there aren't any real tricks here except getting the bracket undone that has the break actuator on it you'll be undoing a pump that's in between the firewall brake part you're working on the actuator and the part that you're foot is connected to when you're sitting in the car they're a few plugs that have to be undone on the back of the inverter The inverter mount brackets are undone in the inverter needs to be swung out of the way some people are going to be afraid to do this You need to see it done in a video so that when you go to bending this thing around like you're doing you're able to do that without any mental strife It will help a lot You don't want to be breaking anything that's for sure You're going to have the inverter open so you're going to need to have the service plug at the rear of the car out of the hybrid battery things like that so pay attention to the order in the video things are done The orange service plug is going to be one of the first things taken out of the vehicle so you want to make sure you're parked where you want to be the vehicles where you're going to be for the next 3 hours and all of that because it's not going anywhere but this is a reasonably easy job your hands will get dirty You will want gloves if you don't work on stuff You will not appreciate the greasy oil it comes off easily with gojo hand cleaner but still moving the bracket with the brake actuator is heavy about 50 lb 48 something like that and you have to muscle it out of the car be careful you can get your hands cut on things you have undone just be aware of that work slowly and carefully It's really not that bad You don't want to be in the direct sunlight while you're doing this a shade tree is good or a pop-up awning even better Don't make it worse on yourself and take your time to get frustrated walk away from the thing for a few minutes It doesn't matter nobody cares.
You should not need jack stands usually you can reach right in the front wheels to undo your bleed fitting You just crack it you feel it squirt on your hand you close it up he or she pumps it up again holds it down you crack they feel it drop you close it that nonsense Go do the other side in the front put the relays back in and go do the rear I usually just lay on my side right on my driveway reach my hand up there with the 8 mm wrench starting on the right side first in the rear she or he pumps it up and then I crack it and keep my head out of the way You hear an electric motor pumping that fluid back there You hear it pump give it one 1,002 and close it Make him pump it up again do the same thing now you got a little air and some fluid close it up making pump it up again do it one more time and you should have solid fluid that sort of thing that should get you to solid brakes. When you're installing the thing if you're read any of this other nonsense if you leave the fittings loose and then let the fluid go from the reservoir to the new actuator You will see air start to come out of the bottom fitting when the air bubbles stop and fluid is coming you close that fitting with your fingers now up to the next one You see the same thing You see solid fluid close it up to the next one till you get to the very top of the actuator and you see the bubbles and then no more bubbles and just fluid you close it then you take the wrench and you tighten all those things up you close with your hand Make sure your fluid is on full in the reservoir relays are out bleed the front brakes relays in bleed the rear and you should have solid pedal no matter what lights are on the lights are probably going to be for the linear valve offset which you will read the codes and see what they are before you start doing anything