Transaxle fluid change, car slightly tilted

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by pasadena_commut, Mar 19, 2025.

  1. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    I will be changing the transaxle fluid soon and have the complication that I cannot get the car completely flat on my driveway and still have jack stands under it. The driveway slopes up to the house, not very steep, and the flattest I can position the car is with it facing downhill, jack stands on the lowest position. That has the nose of the car pointing up a little, eyeball guesstimate, close to 5 degrees above flat.

    At that angle I can get under the car and reach both the drain and the fill plug. I can pour in whatever volume of the Toyota WS atf the spec calls for through a tube from the top, then put the fill bolt back in. I wouldn't trust the "fill it until it drips out the hole" method though, since with the tilt who knows how much could fit in. Will the transaxle completely drain with the car at that angle though? Same problem, there might be a wedge shaped volume that doesn't drain because it is below the hole. Anyway, if it doesn't all come out I'm going to have measure the volume that came out and put only that in, which is a partial fluid change. Also I don't know for sure that whoever did it last put the right amount in, and this would just propagate that error.

    Another option would be to take those two bolts out, then lift the car off the jack stands, lower it until it is flat(ter) and wait for it to stop dripping, then jack it back up and put it back on the stands. I'm hoping it doesn't come to that, since I would prefer to only put the stands in a single time.
     
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  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I don't think I'd want to crawl under a car on a slope, very sketchy. And it's certainly complicating things. Any chance you can find a flat slab, somewhere?

    Barring that I would just carry on, do the whole thing on the tilt, and if you manage to get over 3.5 quarts in before it starts coming back out, you'll be good. Spec is level with the lip of fill hole, to 5 mm lower, so...

    The more I think about the more I want to say: just find a flat slab lol. And get the rear up level and on safety stands as well. Don't say this driveway leads to a garage full of clutter...
     

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    #2 Mendel Leisk, Mar 19, 2025
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  3. ColoradoBoo

    ColoradoBoo Senior Member

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    I agree with Mendel, wouldn't get under any vehicle on jacks on a slop.

    You have a driveway but no garage? Maybe ask a friend with a garage to let you use it for an hour or so.
     
  4. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    If your slightly nose up; you're going to be slightly under filling the transmission - because of the location of the fill plug. If your slightly nose down; you'll be slightly overfilling - again because of the location of the fill plug.
    My best advice is to jack up the rear end with your floor jack to level the entire car. I would be more comfortable with a slight overfill than an under-fill - but would NOT exceed 4 quarts. So far I've used 3.5 and 3.8 quarts respectively; on my ATF changes without issues.

    Hope this helps.....

    FWIW; If your unsure and paranoid - make sure you put in the same amount that your drained out of it. That way you know that your back to square one....
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah but: front on jack stands, rear on floor jack, on a slope?

    Ugh, find somewhere flat.
     
  6. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    I had considered that but didn't like the idea of having half the car's weight on what would at that point be a big roller skate, with the only thing keeping the car from moving down hill the resistance of the two jack stands to tipping over. We have tested the stability with the rear wheels on the ground and the front up on jack stands by having my son shove it as hard has he could in various directions. It isn't going anywhere, well, unless we have a sizeable earthquake which in this area is a possibility, albeit an unlikely one. He applies the force because he is nearly twice my weight and much stronger than I am, despite only being an inch taller. I estimate the tilt applied to the car from the lifting apparatus at about 7 degrees, so with the car facing downhill the approximate final tilt up is 5 degrees, and when facing uphill, 9 degrees.

    I really should measure the actual angles but I don't have a laser level or a long framing level. Hmm, I do have some long pieces of clear tubing, so it could be done with a water level.
     
  7. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    That's what I would do is your second option put it block under the rear tire keep it under the jack have the two bolts out lower it down as low as you can let everything run out but it sit down like that for five 8 minutes or something go do something come back raise it up a little measure what you took out should be pretty close to the four quarts then put that back in man You can't do much else than that It's going to be better than good enough that's what Toyota dealer is going to do pretty much or they have the machine where they can push the business out and push exact amount in they dialed in and that's it they don't check anything they just put the bolts back in and it's over
     
  8. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Car facing uphill. Water level in tube even with top of center insert on front wheel causes water level at other end of tube to be very close to 4 inches straight up from that point on the rear wheel. Wheelbase is listed as 106.3" (our tape measure read 106.5). Arc sine of 4/106.3 is 2.15 degrees, so that's the slope of the driveway. The lateral force at the top of the jack stand will be (weight on stand) * sin(2.15). The latter is back to 4/106.3. Let's say each jack stand supports 1000 pounds, that would be 37.6 pounds of lateral force. The offset of center of the top of the jack stand from its base on the slope due to the slope is roughly 12" (~height of jack stand) multiplied by tangent of 2.15, so .45". The side of the jack stand base I have is about 6.5", so not too far from the center.

    Where would the geometric limit for certain death be? Enough of a slope so that the load was directly over the leading or trailing edge of the stand's base, yes? 12*tan(angle)=3.25 in this case, gives an angle of 15.2 degrees. In the real world the jack stand would surely fail at a smaller angle from the large lateral force, all the compressive force being on one side of the stand, or slipping on the sloped surface.
     
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Urgh! I wouldn't even be asking that question. No matter what the math is, this is sketchy (to put it politely) and sends shivers up my nice person.
    What Mendel said.
     
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  10. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Flat doesn't actually address the main issue of this thread, which is the tilt on the vehicle when only the front has been raised. Placing jack stands front and back would solve that, but I have never been under a vehicle raised like that, and don't intend to start now.
     
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I have. But agree it could be more “precarious”. When doing my transaxle fluid changes I used 4-point support, with 6-ton jack stands, at alternate bearing points. For insurance, the first thing under the car was a section of tree trunk, essentially a cylinder of wood, approximately 13” diameter by 13” long.
     
  12. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    If you can raise & support the car "safely", then drain the transmission. Measure how much came out. Assuming that the amount is close to the normal fill, put that much back in.

    There's some range in the fill level so a few oz doesn't matter. You will have problems when it's a quart or more off spec. I'm still not sure how a Gen2 had more than 3 quarts overfilled.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I'm fine this kind of hard to imagine I just use a jack usually take the plugs out the car is raised I have a choc under one of the rear wheels or both of them if you like and then I lower the car down with my jack If I really want to I could have the front tires off and almost put the rotors on the ground by that time everything is flowing out the drain plug by gravity when that sits for 5 or 6 minutes and there's nothing else coming out if I really wanted to be crazy I could pour some pour through cleaner through a tube through the fill port and watch it run out into the pan or slide the pan with the fluid in it that I took out and slide another pan and run the cleaner through then let that sit 5 or 10 minutes put the drain plug back in have four quarts at the ready like in the NASCAR fill jug raise the car off the brake rotors are from very low dump the four quarts now level the car with the jack and see if any comes out of the front upper fill hole If not and you feel unsecure add some until it does and cap it off if you had the wheels off put them back on and you're done for 60K or whatever it is you do. I'm not really sure how you're under the car this long or what have you usually I break the drain plugs loose and barely have to be anywhere anything like under the car and then the draining in the pan feeling I'm standing up next to the car while that's going on but yeah I don't generally lie under my cars too much for much of anything usually just reach under and pull the wrench but I'm not really under the car maybe my arm is but the rest of me isn't even if the car fell my arm's not thick enough to get squished by anything My chest and head would be but it's not under there.
     
  14. Hayslayer

    Hayslayer Member

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    I also have a slightly sloped driveway and have done this a couple different ways.

    Sometimes: Face the car uphill and drive it onto a set of ramps. Loosen and remove the fill plug, remove the drain. While it's draining, I use my floor jack (with the rear wheels on a sheet of plywood to level the jack) to raise the rear of the car to level or higher, let it sit for a while so everything drains. Lower it back down, install the drain plug, fill it and install the fill plug.

    This is what I do most often and for oil changes: Face it downhill and drive it onto the ramps. This makes it only slightly nose up from level. Take care of what you need to under the engine, then use the rear jacking point and floor jack to lift the car body slightly to level or higher. The rear wheels never leave the ground due to suspension travel.
     
  15. Hayslayer

    Hayslayer Member

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    I think you may have this backwards. On a Gen 2, the fill plug is at the front wall of the transmission housing. When "nose up" it takes more fluid to reach the plug opening.
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Which way are we looking here, not familiar with gen 2:

    upload_2025-3-20_12-36-42.png
    (from Gen 2 Repair Manual excerpt, linked in post 2)

    The other day I did a sketch, a ramp and wheel stop combo. Then looked at it and shook my head. Anyway, fwiw:

    IMG_0315.jpeg
    ^ Seems to me a bevelled base would be needed for the jack stands as well, otherwise they're leaning towers. Which started the head shake: level ground is so much simpler.

    BTW: again, what's at the head of this driveway? Maybe a garage with a "project car"? :whistle:
     
  17. priumium

    priumium New Member

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    I personally really like the concept of not replacing the entire ATF volume, just leave some of the old fluid as this has been indicated many times to me is sound for the gen 2 transmission.

    Wrong? Perhaps, but better than doing no ATF change. Just like any car fluid, detergent properties of new fluid will be very beneficial.

    So I just raised the front, on a very high mileage Prius we bought as a spare car, drained the fluid, filled the same amount. So in your case, use the slope to your advantage.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If I'm not mistaken, on a Gen 2 Prius the transaxle fill hole is on front side? Accordingly, if you have just the front of the car raised, and you refill till it starts spilling back out, it will be somewhat overfilled.
    Why do you like that? And how would you even managed to do a partial drain?
     
  19. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    There is also a manual that indicates the volume of liquid to be poured.
    From the Owner's Manual.
    HYBRID TRANSAXLE Fluid capacity (drain and refill), L (qt., Imp.qt.): 3.6 (3.8, 3.2)
     
  20. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    Both 2012 Prius C and gen4 prime fill plug was towards the rear, next to the passenger half shaft output.
    If your fill plug is located on the front of the transmission, near the radiator; then you are correct. But if your fill port is located towards the rear of of the transmission; the slight angle will make a difference in amount of fluid it will take. The more severe the angle the more your going to over or under fill it.

    I haven't done a gen2; so I don't know...